Usually a faulty temp sensor on the fridge evaporator, not an easy repair for most, I would personally recommend Miele's fix priced repairs
Service Repair Miele Support Miele UK
Temperature alarm
If the temperature becomes too warm, an alarm will sound and the temperature display will flash. The temperature the appliance is set at will determine when the alarm is triggered.
The alarm will sound and the display will flash under the following conditions:
- whenevertoomuchwarmairflows into the appliance, for example when food is being loaded, re-arranged, or taken out.
- wheneverlargeamountsoffoodare being frozen at once.
- whenevertherehasbeenalengthy interruption of the power supply. Door alarm
If the appliance door is left open for longer than approx. 60 seconds, the alarm signal will sound.
Switching the alarm system ON
The alarm system is always active. It does not need to be switched on manually.
Switching the alarm OFF early
Once the set temperature has been reached in the freezer section, the alarm signal stops and the temperature display stops blinking. If the alarm signal bothers you, it can be switched off early.
^ Press the alarm off button. The alarm signal will stop. The temperature display will continue to blink until the set temperature has been reached. The display then stops blinking, and shows a steady reading. At this point, the alarm system is ready again if needed.
temperature displays flash under the following conditions:
- wheneveradifferenttemperatureis being set,
- wheneverthetemperatureinthe appliance has risen by several degrees, indicating that the appliance is warming up too much. This short-term loss of cooling is no cause for concern in the following cases:
- whenthedoorhasbeenleftopenfor a while, for example to take out or put in a large amount of food,
Check Warranty? Some parts of the refrigerator may have extended warranty.
Likely one of two problems. Either the defrost cycle is not working or the cooling is not working.
Look for ice build up inside around the back of the unit.
If ice has built up on the back wall it is a sure tell that the defrost cycle is not working and the air flow is restricted by the ice built up around the cooling coils resulting in not cooling.
First try would be to empty the unit and allow with the doors open 24 hours with heat to melt the ice. Afterwards start normally and hope that the problem doesn't return. There is a tube that needs to thaw from the bottom of the coils that is known to freeze preventing a satisfactory defrost. This tube takes time to defrost if frozen closed.
If problem returns in a day or two then more troubleshooting is required. The heater, defrost sensor and depending on the model, timer may need to be replaced. This is far less expense then replacing the unit and I would be inclined to repair the unit.
No ice built up on back wall of unit does not mean that the defrost cycle is working so check for air flow coming out of the vents. If the air flow appears to be restricted it still could be frozen cooling coils and requires defrost.(see above)
If defrost is not the culprit than reread the warranty. It is likely the unit has a leak and the Freon is low or the compressor is failing. Check the fan located at the bottom from the rear or check for airflow from the front grill. Remove grill and check for massive lint and dust build up restricting the airflow before deciding to replace.
The cost of leak repair or compressor replacement can exceed the present value of the unit and could be better applied against the cost of unit replacement.
Hope this helps?
Fan motors there are 2 one inside and 1 outside. use a vacuum to clean up the outside first !! you can use oil to grease the bearings in it. only takes 2 drops. Hope this helps you.
It's possible to troubleshoot and potentially fix the noise issue in your Miele refrigerator yourself, but it's important to exercise caution and follow proper safety procedures. Here are a few steps you can take:
Unplug the Refrigerator: Before attempting any repairs, unplug the refrigerator from the power source to ensure your safety.
Remove the Top Inside Corner Panel: If you suspect the noise is coming from the top inside corner, you can try removing the panel to access the fan or components in that area. Check your refrigerator's user manual or Miele's website for specific instructions on removing panels or accessing internal components. If the panel has screws or fasteners, carefully remove them to detach the panel without damaging it.
Inspect for Obstructions: Once you have access to the inside corner area, visually inspect for any obstructions or loose components that could be causing the noise. Look for any debris, loose wires, or parts that may be hitting the fan or other moving parts. If you find any obstructions, carefully remove them.
Lubricate Moving Parts: If the noise persists, you can try lubricating the fan or other moving parts in the area. Use a food-grade lubricant or a specifically recommended lubricant for refrigeration equipment. Apply the lubricant according to the manufacturer's instructions.
Check Fan Blade Alignment: Ensure that the fan blades are properly aligned and not hitting any surrounding components. If the blades appear bent or damaged, they may need to be replaced. Contact Miele customer support or a qualified technician for further guidance on replacing fan blades.
Reassemble and Test: After addressing any issues, reassemble the panel and secure it back into place. Plug the refrigerator back in and test it to see if the noise has been resolved. Monitor the refrigerator over a period of time to ensure the noise does not return.
If, after attempting these steps, the noise persists or you encounter difficulties during the process, it is recommended to contact Miele customer support or schedule a service visit by a professional technician. They have the expertise and specialized tools to diagnose and repair complex issues.
Note: Working on appliances can carry risks, and it's important to be cautious and take necessary safety precautions. If you're unsure or uncomfortable performing any steps, it's best to consult a professional technician to avoid potential hazards or further damage to the appliance.
Check first input power supply of fan if its OK then problems can possible in the fan motor . you can check pre fuse by a tester with continuity method
unplug for 5 mins. power it up. if still a problem check troubleshooting steps in handbook. likely needs Meile service guy to run diagnostic. if so keep his report. you can submit to your insurance co. if you have some such contents cover.
Don't know if you still need this, but the 'tamper' aka shock absorber aka gas strut for the warming drawer EGW3060 has the Miele part no. 8127920. It's likely the designs of most of their drawers are the same, but it would be worth checking with the Miele spares department who I've always found very helpful in discussing and supplying spares, contrary to their reputation (although they won't supply technical documentation of course). If you want to try getting hold of the original manufacturer's part, it's a Stabilus Lift-o-Mat 5601YG 0085N.
Our EGW3060 has got through three of these gas struts in its 11-year life - it's clearly a weak point of the design. I have a feeling that Miele changed the spec of the gas strut to 85N force (originally 50N) at some stage, to provide a sharper 'snap' to the closure. Fitting is incredibly easy, but if you've found the mechanism you know that already. Hope this helps.
If ice has built up on the back wall it is a sure tell that the defrost cycle is not working and the air flow is restricted by the ice built up around the cooling coils resulting in not cooling.
First try would be to empty the unit and allow with the doors open 24 hours with heat to melt the ice. Afterwards start normally and hope that the problem doesn't return. There is a tube that needs to thaw from the bottom of the coils that is known to freeze preventing a satisfactory defrost. This tube takes time to defrost if frozen closed.
If problem returns in a day or two then more troubleshooting is required. The heater, defrost sensor and depending on the model, timer may need to be replaced. This is far less expense then replacing the unit and I would be inclined to repair the unit.
No ice built up on back wall of unit does not mean that the defrost cycle is working so check for air flow coming out of the vents. If the air flow appears to be restricted it still could be frozen cooling coils and requires defrost.(see above)
If defrost is not the culprit than reread the warranty. It is likely the unit has a leak and the Freon is low or the compressor is failing. Check the fan located at the bottom from the rear or check for airflow from the front grill. Remove grill and check for massive lint and dust build up restricting the airflow before deciding to replace.
The cost of leak repair or compressor replacement can exceed the present value of the unit and could be better applied against the cost of unit replacement.
Hope this helps?
