DVD stuck in DVD player will not eject
I just fixed one of this exact model SD-V392SU with same problem. This takes a bit of manual dexterity, but it can be done with some care and patience.
THE PROBLEM:
There is a small plastic nylon gear on the shaft of a miniature motor in the DVD mechanism. This gear is likely floating loose in the machine. It is what connects the motor's shaft to the rest of the mechanism to operate all it's functions which include opening and closing the tray and raising and lowering the laser and spindle motor that spins the disks. Be careful not to lose it once the lid is removed from the unit. It is quite small.
Unplug the unit and use a well lit area to work in such as the kitchen table covered with a large towel to protect the unit and the table.
There are 5 Philips head screws holding the lid on. One each side and 3 in the back. Remove those paying attention to where they come from. There is a subtle difference in the lengths of the screws. I use empty prescription bottles to keep things sorted when I work.
The lid can be removed by sliding it slightly backwards and tilting the rear of the cover upwards and back. Once the lid is off the unit, you must locate the small white nylon gear that has come off the shaft of the miniature motor that drives the mechanism. A good tip is to lay out a dark colored large towel to shake and dump the loose gear out and onto so you can more easily see it's white color.
REMOVING THE DVD MECHANISM:
There are 2 flat ribbon connectors and one 3pin mini molex connector connecting the DVD mechanism to the main board of the unit. Grasp the cables as close to the connector as you can get.and gently disconnect these by carefully pulling them out. All three are different, so you can't mix them up to put them back.
There are four screws holding the black plastic mechanism in the unit. One long shoulder style screw at the rear center of the mechanism, and three short screws with captive washers. Two of the three short ones are located one on each side of the mechanism towards the front face of the unit and one near the right hand side about three quarters of the way to the rear of the mechanism. A magnetized Number 2 Philips is the best tool for removing and replacing these screws as the two short front screws must be removed from rather tight quarters in the recesses of the unit. The magnet holds the screws on the tip so you can raise and lower them into position while removing and replacing them.
Once the three connectors and four screws are removed, you can lift the rear of the mechanism slightly and tilt the mechanism out of the unit. Once again, keep a sharp eye out for the loose little white gear.
Now that you have the mechanism out of the unit, you can manually eject the captive DVD.
First a little about how this mechanism works.
Look at the front face of the mechanism. You will see a white actuator bar that slides left and right. This is what raises and lowers the laser/spindle assembly. When the mechanism motor spins, connecting gears move this bar raising the laser/spindle motor assembly up. This causes the disk to be clamped against the top of the drive in play mode so the spindle motor can rotate the disk for the laser to read, The disk tray is basically locked when in this position and it can not slide out to give you the disk.
With the gear missing from the mechanism's motor, it will be possible to move that white actuator bar that raises and lowers the laser/spindle motor assembly. Note that there is a switch with three wires on it located on about front face center that is operated by that white bar. This switch tells the mechanism motor when it is loaded and unloaded so the motor knows when to stop spinning as it loads and unloads. Once the bar lowers the laser/spindle, the tray should be able to be coaxed out. Looking at the bottom of the mechanism, you may be able to spot the gear so you can assist the mechanism's white actuator bar, but with the motor's gear missing, the other gears can spin freely.
Once you have your disk out and you have found that little white gear, you can begin the actual repair of the mechanism.
Looking at the bottom of the mechanism, you can see the bottom of the motor the little white gear came off of. This is NOT the spindle motor that spins your DVD's Once you know where that motor is, you can imagine where the shaft of it will appear on the top. Viewing the top of the mechanism, there is a combination of gears that that little gear drives and you should be able to find the motors bare shaft pointing up. This, of course, is where that little white gear belongs.
Now there is two ways to put the gear back on the shaft. I removed the two other gears this one meshes with so I had a little more wiggle room. The other way, of course is to leave the other gears in the way. This makes replacing the small gear more difficult as there is less room for error in placing the gear.
The gear closest to the front of the mechanism has a plastic hook that can be very slightly moved aside to allow that gear to come off it's shaft. Note the difference between the top and bottom of these gears so you know which way they go back on. Once the one with the hook holding it on is off, the other one can just slide off it's axle as it is held in place by the first gear you took off.
I used some Q-tips and alcohol to clean the shaft of the motor and the
inside center of the little gear. Then I used a poor man's bearing
mount (clear nail polish) and a plastic tooth flossing tool to apply a
very thin coating to the inside of the gear and a Q-tip for coating the outside
of the shaft to help keep the gear from coming off again. This must be
very carefully applied as you don't want any excess nail polish running
down the shaft of the motor and getting in the bearings of the motor. There is a special fluid called bearing mount for fixing pulleys and gears on shafts, but I didn't have any of it or the commercially available thread lock. Bearing mount is basically just very thin, watery thread lock like fluid.
I used the small pick end of the tooth flossing tool to position the gear over the motor's shaft and then pressed it back on using a small screwdriver. The gear is very light, so the tackiness of the nail polish was enough to hold it to the tooth pick's curved pick end. Give the nail polish at least an hour to dry before attempting to move the mechanism. Now that the gear is in place, things can't free wheel any more and you don't want to stress the gear before the polish has had a chance to dry.
Once the gear is pressed back on the shaft of the motor, you put the other two gears back where they came from and it's ready to go back in the unit.
Tilt the front of the mechanism down slightly as you slip it back into position. Note that the back end of the mechanism has a small recess where the rear supporting post fits into. All the holes for the screws should be lined up before you start putting them back in. A good tip is that I always turn the screw counterclockwise or reverse after placing it in the hole and wait for it to thump or click down again before turning it clockwise in. That way I know the screw is seating properly and won't cross thread. It turns back in very easily or I reverse again.
Hold the ribbon cables as close to the end as you can as you put them back in their sockets. There is a small amount of reinforcement near the ends of the ribbons to assist in plugging them back in. Otherwise, it's like shooting pool with a rope. :o)
Replace the lid with the rear of it tilted up and slide the front under the face of the front bezel. Everything should fit nicely and the screw holes should all line up. If it doesn't, you've got it wrong, try again.
That's about it. I hope this helps.
