20 Most Recent Goodman GMS90703BXA Heater - Page 4 Questions & Answers

The condenser drain line is clogged.

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my unit does it also and repair tech refuses to attempt to work on it any further

You're probably reading an "8" code. That would be a faulty igniter.

How many flash?

Clean your flame sensor first before you change that gas valve

I need more info

I am confident the technician(s) have done this but check anyway.
Gas pressure 4-7 inches W.C for natural, 10 - 11 for Propane.
Air filter clean and unrestricted.
Temperature over supply plenum 140 degrees F.
All registers open and unrestricted.
Vent and intake unrestricted and not blocked.
Condensate hoses free of debris and draining.

OK now lets check to see if the furnace is staying on long enough.When it runs for a heat cycle, is the flame staying on until about 2 minutes prior to achieving the set temperature or is it cycling everyfew seconds and never reaching temp? To check you will need to view the flame through a small viewing port of thru the fins in the front door. Watch them for 10 to 15 minutes.

If they are staying on a long time, we will need to see if the room blower is working properly. If they are going out quickly and or cycling. Get the technician on the pone to talk it over. It could be a safety sensor.

If the blower stays on and the burners are on as well, you have a door open somewhere. Just kidding. Remove the thermostst documenting which wires go where. Take the white wire and cross it with the red wire. This will (or should) turn on the furnace. Clamp them together untill the either the house gets warm or you are confident it is not going to reach temperature. If it did get close to the temperature you wanted, it is a thermostat issue. If not, you got me!

And they say we have an easy job! Get beck to us with your results.

Restart the unit as soon as you see the inducer fan on jump the 2 wires the pressure switch. Your burner should stay on and go through it sequences. If it go through it that pressure switch need replace and make sure your inducer pull under the vaccum of the pressure switch.

The blower motor is only going to pull a certain amount of CFM for circulation air. There is some restriction of air flow that is created when the return air system is ducted causing the air flow to "slow down" a bit. The air going into the furnace firebox is probably moving at a faster rate than if the return air was ducted. It will work and you will get the same amount of heat (energy) released but the faster moving air will make it feel cooler. Also the unit might be undersized(BTU output) for the size of the cabin and amount of airflow the blower is creating. Adding a extra filter(double) might slow down the air flow a bit to create more warmth(feel) coming from the registers. Also if the furnace and air intake is pulling air from outside(garage,closet, or under house) then the colder air from outside going into the system will decrease the heat from the furnace. It is better to have a closed system (return air inside cabin). You might want to try adding a extra filter to slow the air flow down some or use some sheetmetal and square it from the intake to try and concentrate the incoming air a little better and see if that improves the warmth coming from the furnace.

3 blinks is a pressure switch error clear the hose going to the inducer housing you may need a paper clip to stick into the barb fitting on the motor housing

restart unit as soon as your inducer fan came on pump the 2 wires to pressure switch and wait to see how long it stay also watch the flame at the burner

does the inducer motor turn on? are all the safety switches closing properly? hot surface igniter come on? need more info

remove door panels.....btu's are listed within the rating plate

check for proper voltage from the transformer to the blower to see if blower is recieving voltage. check continuity on motor windings.....open loop indicates windings are shot

Possible bad igniter...igniter should read somewhere from 50-90 ohms. If not it is going bad. Remove igniter (don't touch carbon silicon rods) see if you see minute cracks or white spots. If ohms testing reads in 90 or above range , replace igniter. ( note some rheem, rudd and weather king igniters normal ohm range can be 130-150 ohms).. You might also want to check the igniters connections and control board module to make sure the the igniter is betting the proper voltage to get the igniter hot enough.. 110 volts or about is the input norm to the igniter.

Check the main blower. Make sure there is no debris stuck in the fan wheel( squirrel cage) or the blower as this can cause the blower to be out of balance and vibrate. Also check the blower wheel for any up and down or sidevto side movement which could indicate a worn motor bearing. Hope this helps.