Sometimes, this is a result of a battery that is too cold (below freezing-warm it up). Sometimes it can be too hot (discharged under heavy stress-let it cool down). Sometimes there may be insufficient voltage, I have had problems in older houses, get closer to the electrical panel to plug in, or you may have to wait until you get home. Red flashing may mean https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8rZqYmPsZycthe charger or battery is to hot and must cool down before it will charge. The charger will not charge a battery if the lights are flashing. Solid Red light means it is charging and solid green light means it is charged. Plug the charger in first before putting the battery on the charger. If the charger has been dropped or hit the floor the coil inside could have broke loose and damaged the charger requiring it to be replaced. Below is an unconventional way to charge the battery if the charger is no good. BE CAREFUL
how to charge broken makita BL1830 Li ion battery
Just join the two wires together if they work by providing current, or disconnect if they work by being open circuit.
Microswitches are normally safety related so bypassing them is not recommended. Just replace the switch if it is faulty.
£13.99
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If you have removed the kerf boards and the center bolt the saw will lift straight off the turn base. It is possible the aluminum is deformed a little, but it will pull straight up and off if that bolt is out
All portable power tools including saws and most tradesman type saw benches use the light and powerful series wound brush-type motor that doesn't use a start capacitor.
The single phase induction motor that does use a start capacitor is far too bulky and heavy for portable tools but is found in many of the static workshop tools.
The powerful brush type motor is electrically very noisy and is almost permanently at the edge of self destructing. Good suppression to prevent radio and tv interference is necessary and this also helps protect the motor but a mains transient or power surge while in use can cause an internal surge destroying the insulation of the windings rendering the motor useless in a millisecond.
This could be what happened to your saw though it could equally be an internal short circuit in the power cord or inside the saw and these things must be checked before either writing off the tool or sending it for repair.
The principle of the series wound brush type motor is fairly straightforward with a field coil set either side of an armature that is mounted in bearings with a commutator and brush gear mounted at one end, the circuit consists of a field coil, the armature and the other field coil connected in series. The air gap between the rotor and stator is small but large enough to allow free rotation even when hot - electrically there should be continuity through the circuit from the start of one field coil to the end of the other though typically the dc resistance will be found to be low but will rise sharply when the armature is spun...
The checking of the wiring, switch and motor circuit is largely intuitive and well within the scope of the handyperson though the proper testing of electronic speed controls or soft starts is beyond most folk, fortunately though, these things are usually in the form of a module that either work or don't and if the remainder of the circuit tests ok it is reasonable to assume the module is defective and it is usually reasonable to bypass such a module to test motor operation before spending cash.
Professional equipment sold in many parts of the world must be fitted with an electric brake designed to stop rotation in one second when switched off - as yet I haven't had to delve into such things.
This design of motor is electrically very noisy and high powered motors are perpetually at the edge of self-destruction and effective suppression is important to prevent electrical interference to receiving equipment and to some extent protect the motor.
Suppression takes on a variety of forms from a through-module containing a variety of chokes and capacitors to discrete components. It isn't unusual for a suppressor module to fail - they often don't age well...
A failed power supply, broken on/off switch, bad motor overload, broken power cord or failed drive motor can prevent the table saw motor from starting. First, try resetting the overload. If the table saw motor won't start after resetting the overload, then the saw may not be getting power from the electrical outlet.