Rangemaster Elan 90 (Dual Fuel) Dual Fuel (Electric and Gas) Kitchen Range - Page 3 - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi Cindy, Next link gives you where you can buy a new one and the last picture shows you the back side. There are 2 pins that go through the plate and then it has 2 special clamps. You can remove these carefully with a little screwdriver and a pair of pliers. Be carefully not to distroy these clamps. Rangemaster 5925 110 Electric White Brass Name Badge Have a good weekend, Dik

Hello Lisa, I love these cookers, they are beautiful. FIRST OF ALL, REMOVE THE PLUG Then pull the cooker out of its place and unscrew the backplate on the side where you think the problem is. When it really is the ventilator, you will find then some very dark colored wires. The reason for this is most often a bad contact. When the wire is not burned to much, remove the burned connection, clean it and put it back again. In case of a really bad burne wire, do not replace the wire, but use shrink hose Just be sure that the connection is ok again. Replacing Burned Wire Connection in Oven Mom in Music City The second link is of a VW Samba, but illustrates what can happen. Then you can immagine that nothing will work anymore TheSamba com Gallery burned wire

Hi Gerald, for old Rangemasters it is difficult to find the original parts, as they have their outside model. But when you open the switch carefully, you will find 2 switches on a board, one for the light and one for the fan. These parts are common for a lot of cooker hoods. The switches look like the one of link 1 Genuine Creda CRV10W Light Bulb Switch Cooker Hood eBay the second link gives you a complete unit, so the light switch and the vent switch on a board https://shop.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/08086215-hygena-cooker-extractor-hood-switch-pcb I hope you will find the right part. Kind regards, Dik

Hi Don, no there is no extra fuse in it, at least I have never found one. I refurbish cookers and sometimes I find that the wires are somewhat burned. So the heater the ovens come, the more chance there is for a shortcut. That trips the circuitbraker. It is often because of a bad connection. When this goes on, there may become a burnt wire. In that case there will be no electricity to that part of the cooker. Did you smell a burning smell in the past when you put the oven on? On the link I give you, you will find something that may be helpful. Have a nice weekend, Dik Replacing Burned Wire Connection in Oven Mom in Music City

Hello Bob, this is not on a Rangemaster, but the principle is the same. I think, if you have done the other one too, you will have enough information to do this one too. Range Oven Thermostat part WB20K8 How To Replace Have a nice weekend, Dik

• Hello David, when the clock does not work, the (left hand) oven will not work too I suppose. Often when the clock does not work, it is only the timer that does not work. In that case, the timer can be bypassed. The oven still works then, but without the timer and the clock will also work as a clock. So no timer. When it is an older rangemaster, and the ignition does not work, then probably are some wires leaking. I that case the power for the spark does not come to the burner sparkplug. But when all plugs do not spark then there are 2 possibilities I think. 1 the ignitor is gone 2 the ignitor does not get power I hope this helps, I wish you a good weekend, Dik

Leisure Rangemaster 110 Electric Range Cooker How to bypass

Hello Stephany, this cooker has an ignition system by pressing the knob of the item that you want to ignite. As all sparkplugs work and only the oven is the source of the problem, i think that the contact behind the knob of the oven sticks It looks like this one and is behind the facia, between the knob and the valve. I hope this helps, Dik

Hello Patricia, when the oven lights on, but only smal, then I suspect the flame failure device.has troubles. As you say that you spilt gravy on the gas jets then I also think there is gravy on the electrical part of the FFD. That is in this picture on the left side. When there is a problem, the FFD will not open the valve in full I hope this helps you, kind regards, Dik

Hello Anon61, Wow, that is a lot of problems with one cooker. First of all, there must be an inspection of an engineer. I am afraid he will tell you to buy a new one, as repair with so many troubles will cost a lot of money. Timers are often the source of problems. When that occurs, the oven that is controled by the timer will not work. For the Rangemaster Exel 110, the left hand oven is served by the timer, so this oven should not work too. In this case, I would test the element in the right hand oven, as I think, it is gone. When this cooker has an ignitor that works by pressing the knob, then all knobs work like it is one knob. That means, if no sparkplug ignites, then there is a problem with the ignitor or with the wireing. When there is at least one plug that ignites, then the problem is in the contacts of the other knobs. The light of the oven is a neon light, that only needs a very small amount of current. I think, that this light is on because of other electric problems. As soon as those problems are solved, the oven lamp will work again as it should. I wish you a wonderfull weekend and a lot of succes, Dik

hello Terry, it is not to difficult. I tried to download a picture here, but that does not work. On this link, you can see how they look like: https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Rangemaster-110-A027947-Gas-Oven-Burner-FSD/1123358801?iid=322891761660 Here you have the complete unit. This unit is connected at the bottem of the oven with 2 screws. You need also to disconnect the small gaspipe. Then you can remove the whole item. When that is done you easyly can remove and replace the ffd. I wish you succes. Kind regards, Di

not near enough information for a guess so get in a technician to properly diagnose the fault

call for a warranty service do anything yourself will void the warranty

Induction stovetops wont heat until a metal pot is put on top of the element. They work through electromagnetism. These tops wont work with glass or aluminium pots. They have to be steel.

Non compliance of a product is usually because the Gas Board, Gas Regulators, Government Agency, etc have determined that the unit is unsafe to use under certain conditions. I have no idea why yours doesnt comply but it would be something to do with safe operation. In Australia for instance, any gas appliance sold here, must meet AGA requirements and have an AGA Approval decal on it with an authority number. The oven you have probably doesnt carry a Government approval and this would make it illegal for a Gas Tech to instal it. I would suggest you contact the supplier for more information. It is strange though that they would be allowed to sell a unit that doesnt comply.

Hi Ed Being a range hood & subjected to cooking fats etc. It might be gummied up around the fan and just require cleaning! But.... you said it was humming and there is a capacitor close by. Then it's probably an induction motor thats not getting kick started by the Cap. While it's humming, use a finger (or stick) to push start in one direction or try other direction. If it spins up and stays going.... you've found the problem. The Cap is not kick starting in the right direction. Remove the Cap (with AC Disconnected) and check the values to get a similar replacement. Good Luck You searched for Start capacitor

Hello. Normally the ignitors WILL all start sparking--only the burner you've initiated will turn on. All the ignitors are wired together with a harness underneath the cooktop. This harness is connected to a spark module and when you choose whichever burner, it simply energizes the module. Only the burner with gas flowing will ignite. I hope this helps you!

The yellow is a sign of incomplete combustion due to lack of air pre air mixture to the burner mixer tube, which is outside diy and should be looked at by a qualified engineer.

Your left hand oven is a conventional oven it has two heating elements one at the top and one at the bottom, if one of these is not working then the high temperature cannot be reached.

John, it sounds like the problem is in the hinges. They are not aligned, even thought the seal has been changed, the door is not seated properly as a result the steam comes out. You will need to readjust the hinges. If this seems out of your comfort zone you may want to call a professional.

Sounds like a bad control valve.