20 Most Recent Bosch WFVC6450UC Front Load Stacked Washer / Dryer Questions & Answers

You are on the right track but you will probably have to remove a panel to access the switch for replacement. Look for a way to get in and .......................

The E27 code isn't often listed in Bosch manuals but relates to the washer door lock.

The E27 error flashes on the washer LCD screen and stops the current load. Unplug your washer for 30 minutes and then plug it back in to reset the code.

Open and close the door two or three times to reset the sensor. Sometimes the door has been closed too hard and the sensor reading fails.

You may need to replace the door lock assembly on the washer.

The E27 error flashes on the washer LCD screen and stops the current load. Unplug your washer for 30 minutes and then plug it back in to reset the code.Open and close the door two or three times to reset the sensor. Sometimes the door has been closed too hard and the sensor reading fails.

You can manually release the latch by removing the lower panel (Torx fasteners, I think) and finding a wire lanyard that releases the latch. However, I had read that there was a diagnostic code that could be used to reset the latch solenoid via the control panel.

There is no service manual available on line, as far as I can tell.

Here is what worked...

1. Set the knob to off.

2. Hold down both the Spin Selector button and the Allergy Rinse button simultaneously.

3. While holding these two buttons down, rotate the knob one click to the left, to the "cold" position.

4. At that point, the display will show a diagnostic code and the unit will enter a self-test mode. In my case, the solenoid latch started clicking repeatedly. I pressed the Spin Selector button once or twice, which resulted in the display of new codes and then the release of the latch.

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

I understand you have a concern with a WFVC series Bosch washer, specifically what is believed to be a coin between the basket and outer tub, correct ?

I'll start be saying most times a scenario like this can be resolved by way of removing the tub to pump belows and getting the coin via a telescopic magnet or the like.

**Unplug the unit from the wall before performing any service...safety first**

As I mentioned though, the tub to pump belows must be remove, but first access must be gained to this area. The back panel must be removed on the WFVC, (this is the easiest of two methods, the other going from the front...much more involved) and to do so is as follows...

Remove (18) M4x11 T-20 Torx screws, then pull out panel until top tabs clear. Don't remove the top rear panel (with "H" & "C" stampings).
example:


From this vantage point you should be able to see the sump/bellows to your left attached to the tub (it goes from the tub to the pump, the image below is from the front so you will the opposite side of course).

example:


Remove the clamp and you will gain access to hopefully retrieve the debris/coin. This is where a wet-dry shop vac comes in handy as there WILL BE WATER PRESENT so be prepared to get a little wet if you do not prepare for it.

Let me know what comes of this or if anything is not clear and I will continue to assist you going forward if necessary.

Thank you for choosing FixYa and good luck. If this does provide you with a solution please take a moment to rate the assistance and a brief testimony is appreciated as well.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

Hello Jennifer. As you probably already know, this is not good. Here are some causes. If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows: If the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley before you change the belt. If the motor isn't running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these: The lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it. The motor coupler may be broken. Many Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time, the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it. A belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.) Joe

You will need the numerical model number.

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00667487 Bosch Washer Door Boot Gasket

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Shop Bosch Washing Machine Gasket & Seal Parts

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That sounds like the bearings have collapsed. Time to call a domestic appliance engineer or look for a new machine.

Potential causes and fixes: Battery Terminal Corrosion: Cause: If your Bosch laser receiver has been submerged in water, the battery contacts and sometimes the circuit board may have corroded. Fix: Remove the batteries and clean the battery terminal contacts. Pry open the bottom cover and clean any corrosion on the circuit board. Calibration Issues (for Bosch GLL 2-20): Cause: Dropping the Bosch GLL 2-20 can lead to misalignment and errors. Fix: The best way to address this problem is to calibrate the laser level. You can either contact the Bosch service center or follow the calibration instructions in the manual. General steps for calibrating a laser level with a misaligned pendulum: Remove the screws and outer cover. Locate the pendulum hanging in its stationary position. Remove the glass window of the laser level. Adjust the stationary position of the hanging pendulum using the main adjustment screw. Fine-tune right-left adjustments using other smaller adjustment screws. Reassemble the laser level. Cracked Glass Lens (for Bosch GLL 2-50): Cause: If the horizontal glass lens is cracked, it affects accuracy and safety. Fix: Unfortunately, this problem is often unrepairable. It's advisable to replace the laser level to ensure safe operation1. Remember to lock your laser level when not in use or during transportation to prevent pendulum movement1. If these steps don't resolve the issue, consider reaching out to Bosch for professional assistance or repair

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Question edited for clarity. Question moved to maker category. See the link. It may be 'child locked'. https://www.google.com/search?q=bosch+washing+machine+will+not+unlock ..