It sounds like the icemaker had a dead short and tripped the breaker. You would have to strip it down and check all the electrical components and look for water leaks onto electrics.
Either condensation or a crack in the ice bin is the most likely, but it could also be a lack of cleaning / descaling and that water is spraying inside and finding its way outside of the case.
I have had a career dealing with icemaker issues. :>)
same problem w mine and yes if you take the cover off the inside display you will be able to remove the board mine has a hole burnt in it.unplug harness w red blue and brown wires and jump and jump from brown to red unit will turn on you need a new board
As it is brand new you should not be fiddling with it as it is likely to invalidate the warranty - if it doesn't work as it should you should immediately call the supplier, which is who your contract is with.
Could be the manufacturer forgot to add lubricant and the compressor seized or perhaps the motor start winding is damaged - whatever the problem is, it shouldn't be yours.
Fridge not starting?CLICKING? FIRSTALWAYSCHECK FORpower at the outlet,checkfor 120 volts.
MAY HAVE A BAD START RELAY OR CAPACITOR ONTHE COMPRESSOR , CAN BUY A INEXSPENSIVE 3 IN 1 HARDSTART KIT AND BY PASS THEM , NOT THAT HARD TO DO, COMES WITH INSTRUCTIONS> ? BY THE WAY DO U HEAR ANY CLICKING SOUNDS FROM COMPRESSOR? BUT U MAY ALSO WANT TO CHECKURCOLD CONTROL THERMOSTAT IF IT GOES BAD U MAY GET A NON START ALSO HAVE IT CHECKED FOR PROPER VOLTAGE AND OHMS RESISTANCE WHEN IN THE ON POSITION
A BAD DEFROST TIMER though seldom CAN SHUT DOWN COMPRESSOR HAVE IT CHECKED WITH MULTI METER.
to check thedefrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engageurdefrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providingurterminator is not bad?
Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Placeurmeter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next.
Takeurmeter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click.
Nowur1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u knowurtimer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS.
And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance..
Some fridges are now using ADC boards.
Designers are using microprocessors (on solid state circuit boards) to adapt defrost intervals and durations to compensate for differences and changes in operating conditions. Such techniques are calledAdaptive Defrost Control, commonly abbreviated as ADC.Theyare normally found in same locations as the timer would be but look somewhat different in appearance. It is more difficult to test these units without the appliance schematic.
Some ADC / control boards control other functions of the refrigerator, too, such asicemakingand electrical air damper door opening andclosing.Thedefrost frequency may also be shortened under certain circumstances.
AT TIMES YOU MAY HEAR THE COMPRESSOR CLICK OFF AND ON OVER AND OVER. Signs of a bad start relay or capacitor.Check with an OHMS meterfor continuity (ohms) and voltage, capacitor can be checked forMicrofares.( if in series with the windings)
If you hear your compressor "short-cycling" (starting and stopping at short intervals) try jumping across the two leads of the cold controlthermostat ( in the fridge compartment)with an alligator jumper.You can also check both for live voltage current and ohms-If there is a greenthirdlead, ignore it for this test; it is the ground wire. If the fridge starts running constantly, the cold control is bad. Replace it.
To checkurcompressor with multi meter:
Disconnect and remove the relay and capacitor from compressor, sometimes located next to compressor in a casing.
You wills see 3 prongs coming out of compressor. 1 goes tourstart winding, 1 goes tourrun winding and the center goes tourground or COM
Placeurmeter connector or prong on the start prong and the other on the ground (center prong) take note of the reading in OHMS for example 5 ohms.
Next place meter prong on run prong and the center ground prongagin. Take note of the reading in OHMS. Example 4 ohms
Next place meter prong on the start prong and the other on the run prong, now take note of the reading example 9 ohms. Now match the total of this ohms test with the total ofurtwo separate test. 9 ohms, if they matchurok give or take 5 percent plus or minus. One more test to make to test of there is a short in compressor attach meter prong to ground prong and rub the other end of meter prong to metal ( scrape the metal clean of paint and test on metal surface not painted surface. If it shows continuity or ohms, u have a short inurcompressor. It should show infinity
God is so good: so this is why I give free advice so please thank him not me.
TO REPLACE RELAY AND CAPACITOR WITH A HARDSTART KIT YOU CAN USE
A3 in 1 start kit for compressors sizes 1/4 through 1/3 HP. And a 5 in 1 for higher H.P. (BE SURE TO MATCH WITH UR COMPRESSOR MODEL NUMBER AND TYPE) Thekit includes relay, capacitor, andoverload device, pre-wired. Thekit will replace all 3 electrical components on capillary refrigeration systems. For newer systems with a run capacitor use?proper kit. For smaller horsepower compressors useTJ90RCO810.
The wire set up is as follows the red wire goes to the right side of compressor prong, the white wire to the left side prong, the black wire to the center prong, and the 2 other black wires go to the power and the ground connection
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-L80Fk5had4 defrost timer
ICE MAKER not making ice
Inspect Water fill tube,Inspect the ice maker mold to see if there are ice cubes present. If there are no cubes or very small cubes, then you should look for issues with the water fill system. Inspect the fill tube and the fill cup area at the back of the ice maker to make sure that they are not frozen. If there is an ice buildup in that area, confirm no foreign objects have disrupted the flow of water into the fill cup. If nothing obvious has caused the ice buildup then suspect the inlet valve, tubing or low water pressure. Inspect the outlet tubing from the fill valve to the ice maker fill tube for any signs of restrictions and replace if necessary.
WATER INLET VALVE:
Check the water inlet valvefor any restrictions. You will need to shut off the valve from the household water supply before you disconnect the inlet tubing. Some water inlet valves may have a screen to filter debris before it can enter the valve. If the screen is plugged, water flow will be restricted and the result will be small or layered ice cubes. Remove and clean the screen or replace the valve. If dirt has gotten into the valve it may not shut off completely and will continuously drip water into the ice maker fill tube and will eventually freeze up. Low household water pressure or a restriction at the manual shut off valve will also cause the water inlet valve to not shut off completely and create this same condition. Self piercing saddle valves are the most common shut off valve to cause this problem as the hole that is pierced in the water line is often too small and will more easily become restricted.
The water inlet valveis operated by line voltage supplied through the ice maker control. Power is applied for approximately 7-9 seconds during the harvest cycle and energizes the solenoid on the valve to allow water to flow.
You can check the solenoid for continuity with a multi-meter. On models with multiple solenoid inlet valves, you will need to determine which portion or portions of the valve are used for the ice maker. You can normally follow the inlet tubing from the ice maker back to the valve. Unplug the refrigerator and turn off the water supply to the valve before working with this part.
(HOW TO TEST INLET VALVE:Inspect the filter screen where the supply line connects. Remove any debris or deposits that may have built up using a toothbrush or warm running water. If you cannot clear theclog, it will benecessary to replace the valve(the filter is not removable on most inlet valves).Test thewaterinletvalve for continuity using amultImeter. First, inspect the coil for an indication of it's ohm rating. If no information is printed on the coil, then use the range of 170 to 500 ohms. Set themultitesterto the ohms setting X100 (if available, otherwise use the nearest ohm setting). Place a probe on each terminal. Themultitestershould display a reading that matches the coil's rating or if you don't know the rating then it should fall into the range of 170 to 500 ohms. If the water inlet valve does not pass this test, it should be replaced. If the inlet valve has two coils, test the second coil in the same way (note that they may not have the same ohm rating).The valve can also fail mechanically. So even if it passes the electrical test, it may still require replacement. If you have ruled out all other possibilities, go ahead and replace the valve.
Check the tap valve.A bad tap valve-the little device that connects the ice maker's water supply tube to the water pipe-may cause the problem where the ice maker's supply tube connects to the water pipe. If necessary, replace the inlet valve and the tap valve. For the tap valve, use the type that requires you to drill a 1/4-inch hole (as opposed to the "self-piercing" type). You can buy anice maker connection kitand do this yourself, or call a repair person or plumber to install an inline water filter when replacing the valve.
Lastly the ICE MAKER ASSEMBLY:
If there are no ice buildup issues or suspected problems with the water supply, then you may have a problem with the ice maker control. The most common type of ice maker used in modern refrigerators is the heat release ice maker. The ice maker uses heat to release the ice cubes.
If the water's route is blocked or the solenoid doesn't work-or if the bail wire is lifted-the ice maker won't make ice. (Alsonote that your home's water pressure may not be strong enough to serve an ice maker.)
If you have aheat releaseor modularice maker itwill have a removable cover at the front. Behind the cover is a series of electrical test points that can be used to diagnose the ice maker. The unit can be manually operated by inserting an insulated jumper wire into test points"T" and "H" to initiate a "test harvest".On other ice makers jumper at pointsN & M(neutral to Motor) The jumper should be insulated 14 gauge solid wire that has the insulation stripped back about 3/4 of an inch on both ends, and bent into a "U" shape. When inserted into the test points for 5 to 10 seconds, the motor should start and the cycle will continue on its own. You may have to manually close the freezer door switch for this to operate.This test will simulate a real harvest cycle and will operate the ejector blades, shut off arm and the fill valve in the proper sequence, and will allow you to do a proper diagnosis.This is a live voltage testand should only be performed by a qualified person. If the motor does not start, you can verify that you have power to the ice maker at test points "L" and "N". If the ice maker is getting power and does not perform a cycle, then the module will need to be replaced
On component mode ice makers the testing is done differently.
Testing a thermostat ina componentice maker:
The thermostat is located near the bottomofthesupport box. The thermostat is connected by two or threewires.Labelthe wire placement before disconnecting them. Removethethermostatby loosening the clamp, by pushing back theretainerclips, or by removing the retaining screws.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusingamultitestersetto the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostatwhenithas come up to room temperature (about 20 minutes after removingit from the freezer).
If the thermostat has two wirestouch one probe to each wire. You should get a reading ofinfinity.Chillthe thermostat in the freezer for about twenty minutesandretest. This time you should get a reading of zero (continuity).
If the thermostat has three wires,number them 1, 2 and 3. Test combinations 1 & 2, 1 & 3and 2 & 3 and write down the results. Two of the combinationsshould yield a reading of infinity and one should yield areadingofzero. Now chill the thermostat in the freezer for about twentyminutes and retest. The combination that had a zero reading before,should now have a reading of infinity. One of the two other combinationsshould now yield a zeroreading.Ifthe thermostat fails this test,it should be replaced.
Testing amodular ice maker 'sthermostatcan be tested and replaced individually.
Test the thermostat forcontinuityusing amultitesterset to the ohms setting X1. Start by testing the thermostat when it is cold (10 degrees). Insert one probe into the hole labeled "T" and the other probe into the hole labeled "H". The meter should indicate zero resistance (continuity). After the ice maker has warmed up, repeat the test and this time the meter should indicateinfiinity(no continuity).If the thermostat does not pass both tests, it should be replaced.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BFh8aa7asvw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPeZ29XdX5U
http://www.appliancerepair.net/refrigerator-repair-1.html
God is the reason I give you free advice so God is good!
Brand new ice maker has not made ice yet. It has been 3 days. It pulls water, fun runs close to 10 minutes, goes through the motions of dumping ice in the bucket but there is no ice to be dumped. ..........amazon78.com8GBLH5
