20 Most Recent Clymer EvinrudeJohnson Outboard Shop Manual 48 235 HP - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Hi, it would probably need a 17 inch pitch and then water test it and make sure its full throttle revs are between 5200 and 5500. regards Phil.

My evinrude pumps water out of the tell tale all time. Even under WOT

Hi, 18 thou will get you going, regards Phil.

check fuel line and mabey carb if you have dirt/water in line/carb will cut out.the taking off happened to me but it was a while ago andn i can't quite remember how i fixed it, check cables to gearbox on engin sounds like its jumping into gear after you start it.

sounds like the choke assembly needs adjusted. takes a phillips screwdriver and just back top screw out a little and bottom screw and turn whole assembly towards the plus side.(some have numbers some have + or -. If you adjusted the carb at all it could be in low idle circuit.

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needs a new impeller as its gone hard ,this requires the bottom of the engine taking off and is not a diy sort of job i would recomend except for a competent weekend mechanic

The 70s Johnson or Evinrude outboards of similar sizes did not have any charging system. I had an old Johnson 50HP (key injection) mounted on an 18Ft Zodiac and I needed to remove and recharge the battery once every couple of weeks. Keep the battery dry and the contacts well greased.

The correct mixture is 50:1, or 1 pint per 6 gallon tank. Use quality brand-name outboard TCW-II or better oil(Bombardier or Mercury eg.) to eliminate the oil as a problem.

Check your plugs for fouling. If using perma-gap / surface-gap type plugs, switch to the L77JC4 type, especially for long idling or slow speed operation. For extended high speed operation, the surface gap plugs are recommended.

No idea where to download them ,sorry workshop manuals are a luxury for me just sort of work from experiance

this is the govenor and its not complicated but somewhere along the line its come adrift with advance unit which is under the flywheel as well ,have another look and you will see what i mean take the flywheel off and give it a good inspection and you will kick yourself as its so simple but if your not sure and do it wrong then it jumps off when you open the throttle

They were a great motor. Hope you got the control box with it. That was the weak link. And the lower needs a special "electric shift" oil. Your idle has to be at the correct adjustment so as not to over stress the lower when you shift. Soon after this lower was brought out, they used the same engineering in their stern drive for many years.The electric shift went thru many variations, and the system used to shift them changed as well. Some had a "no power" forward gear and some had "Power/no power " forward, So the switch controlling the gearbox is critical.

We had some success suspending powerhead (if removed from lower) and first rattling the shaft with an air chisel (using blunt head) - worked best on dry rust. If that didn't work it was soaked for a few days in rust buster. and tried again. If that didn't work, we put a bearing splitter on the groove above the pinion splines and a perfectly cut threaded pipe with a threaded union on one end over the drive shaft in such a manner the pipe would apply pressure to the crank shaft when the union was unscrewed.Now if that didn't work, you can cut the drive shaft off the engine at the crand shaft and drill a hole thru the stuck part. Then tap a thread into the hole and thread a bolt into the stuck part till it bottomed out in the crank shaft and continue to thread it in and it would walk the piece out -saving the crankshaft.Hope it doesn't have to go that far.

You will need to compare both engines wiring diagram. These engines would bolt to the same intermediate housing over an astonishing wide range of powerheads. You may have completely different ignitions.