20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WS-55511 55" Rear Projection Television - Page 5 Questions & Answers

ONLY 1 of 2 things can cause this problem----First thing to do is remove front speaker grill--it should pull out and issecured with plastic pegs--behind it you will find an inspection plate---Notice the one or two pairs of wires coming from the front keyboard of theset---remove the inspection plate and follow the wires to the right--you canunplug both plugs(most have two and they are marked with letters and differents so you cannot get them wrong)The idea here is to remove the front keyboard with its reset button etc fromthe circuit---You will still be able to try to turn the set on with theremote---These sets have a Receiver that is called a DM board--(large metal box to theleft as you look from the back) and if the power goes out the green light willblink for about 70 seconds and then go out---it is the Receiver booting up. Itis called the DM board.If disconnecting the keyboard allows the set to turn on--you have a bad resetswitch and two choices---either operate the set only with the remote or toremove the front screen and get at the reset switch (it is tiny) and removeand/or replace it.If disconnecting the keyboard does not restore the set to operation---thereceiver is bad---there are 4 or more caps and some pico fuses that can fail inthat unit---Mitsubishi no longer sells or repairs these--if it is bad and notthe caps there is a company you can send the unit to and have it repaired--ifyou need to know their name let me know---You can call them and get a quote for repairing the receiver.Let me know what more information you need--I am here to help.SD TECH

Hi William,If your problem is a continuous green blinking led light and will not turn on, this is an indication that the DM of your unit try but hasn't booted up and stuck to this fault.If you have checked fine the fuses on the DM power supply board, you have to check/replaced also the electrolytic capacitors on that board.www.tvrepairkits.com has a repair kit for your unit (DM power supply board) that includes these parts.If you've already replaced the capacitors on that board but still the symptoms still persist, I would advice you to check/replaced the capacitors on the power supply board feeding the DM power supply board. Check also the pico fuses and bad solder joints (cracked, cold, dried solder). Resolder the joints that look suspicious. Yes, your model has no complete schematic diagram downloadable online. I have a copy of the repair manual that includes the schematic but not a complete one. The power supply's schematic shows only the major parts and the output voltages of the board. Same as on the DM's power supply.Email me at [email protected], I will send you the copy of the repair manual.Jdvillanueva

the WS55511 doesnt have a reset button like the DLP models instad you have to unplug the set from the wall for 5 minutes to reset it.

You will have to check standby power supply functioning, which is required for remote control to function.

I am the one here who first posted about taking the front keyboard out; if you replaced the caps in the DM unit and or pico fuses and still have the 'blinking green light of death" consider sending the board unit to PTS electronics.You can get a quote from them for the repair and they have a 800 number; if you tried the usual things and it does not work go that way. Even with the factory service manual and schematics you will find it nearly impossible with the Unit in the set to take voltages and troubleshoot it.DM unit in correctly working set should cause set to have blinking power light for about 70 seconds and then go out--it is DM booting up---if it does not stop blinking either a problem with DM or connections where it plugs into main board.Let me know if you have questions or need help, I am here to helpSD TECH

There are 7 capacitors that will require replacement.I am attaching a picture. Use 1000UF 25V caps hen replacing the stock 1000UF 16V caps that are currently installed. if you need further assistance let me know

.01UF 16V caps C9A79 and C9A80 are both the same capacitors on that model so you can compare it

There is a good chance that the problem you are having stems from bad capacitors on the DM board. Facing the back of your tv, on the far left, there is a metal case that pulls out after you've removed the required screws and wire connections from the circuit boards. When you open up this case the DM board will be the smaller board with a group of 4 or 7 (1000uF 16v) capacitors. In my experience these capacitors may physically appear just fine, but they will be bad. They could also be bulging/convex on the top, I replace all of these capacitors with 1000uF 25v or 35v, just a higher voltage rating than the original 16v. This remedy will more than likely solve your problem. There is little soldering that needs to be done.

based on the model number both STK chips need to be replaced and the set adjusted.I am available in the market place here and have start to finish, step by step instructions for this repair in this set.SD TECH

I have seen this only 2 times----you may be able to unsolder and remove the reset micro switch---you have to remove the whole screen to get at it---the micro switch board may not be available---the switches can be tested with a ohmmeter set to high end and of course should not have a reading across them--I bet the reset switch is bad--you can remove it and put the keyboard back---most of the Mitsubishi sets use the same type of switches--Only other thing is leave the keyboard disconnected and just use the remote.

Glad you found the problem.

Regards, SD TECH

There are at least two pico fuses in the DM unit along with the caps; DM is large metal box on left as you look from behind.Blinking green light that does not stop means problem is in DM unit that is not booting up.If you have questions let me know.SD TECH

if the green power light just blinks that is one issue==========if the green power light does not come on at all suspect a fuse----follow the power cord (set unplugged) into the set and plug in ac fuse is right there.

If you have the blinking light that will not stop it means the DM unit in the set was damaged and that is expensive.

If you need more information or have questions let me know with a comment here.

SD TECH

Hello
I thinks that you have its original remote handset with you now, and posts this solution. If you don't have it, either buy a new original remote handset or try to get it from any of your friends and relatives, who owns the same model of Mitsubishi Tv, you have now; only to unlock it. After unlock, you can use any other remote control.
Mitsubishi sets use a four-digit code for a V-Chip locked program, view a locked TV, cancel the lock, or to enter the V-Chip lock menus. You can view the locked shows on the TV set by pressing the number 9 and QV buttons on the remote at the same time, whenever your code is requested. This process temporarily unlocks the TV and asks you to enter a new code.
OK.

Very familiar with this problem. Count the number of times the light blinks. Then, Google the make and model of your TV and add blink codes to the end. This will show you links to sites that tell you what the blink code means.

Count the number of times the light flashes. After you know that, Google your make and model number with blink codes added to the end. This will take you to sites that will tell you what the blink code on your tv means. The blink code is a self diagnostis performed by your set to tell service where to start with repairs.

Thats a very common problem caused by weak capacitors on the DM board. When they drain they cant recharge when power is restored. The Mitsubishi repair kit called the WS48511 - WS55511 DM repair kit from www.tvrepairworld.com is the kit that will usually repair the issue. The kit contains the Capacitors and the CD with repair instructions.

If it's failing to turn on, the main power supply is probably at fault and without some technical background and a couple of test instruments, you will not be able to do the repair yourself.
What you can do though is; unplug the set, let it stand overnight or at least several hours, remove the lower back panel and look for a separate board with mostly larger components on it; it will have a ferrite core (no laminations as with a line-frequency part) transformer on it and several larger capacitors which are cylindrical and mounted vertically to the board.

Before touching anything inside, especially on that board, allow several hours to be safe since the larger capacitors can hold a painful voltage charge for some hours.

If you see signs of overheating such as discoloration of the board material, the PSU may not be repairable but if you can find a part number on the board, you might be able to buy the power supply from the mfr. and install it yourself but it will likely have the same problem eventually unless they have altered the design or improved component quality.
If there are no signs of heat damage to the board, there may be companies offering to repair it as a subassembly instead of repairing the whole set which could be much more expensive.
If you choose to replace or have it done, the main power supply still may not be at fault since most are capable of switching on and off if a downstream problem is causing an overload and the power supply for the backlight may be at fault.

Hi,

Does the green lines gone after a minute of operation?


Jdvillanueva

2,2 is the error code for short protection.


The most common reason for this is one of the 2 pico fuses that protect the convergence circuit is blown. Changing the fuses will not help! They are green in color and soldered into the middle circuit board and are F9a04 and F9a05----look like resistors but are 5 amp fuses.

99% chance if one or both are blown---you have to have someone change the STK-393-110 convergence IC that this set uses----the IC can be purchased on Ebay for under 14 dollars and the same seller sells the pico fuses 5 @ 2.95.

The best thing to do here if you or someone you know is able is to unplug the set and look for the fuses---middle board towards the back---there are 5 of them and the two closest to the back of the row are for the convergence IC----If someone checks them (like testing any other fuse) you will know--if either or both is blown--the convergence IC got them.

I have start to finish, step by step instructions and photos of the fuses etc----If you or someone you know can solder and is handy--you may be able to do the repair yourself.

If not, shops usually charge 300-400 for this kind of repair in this set.

LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED ANY ADVICE or help.

Regards, SD TECH