20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WS-55805 55" Rear Projection Television Questions & Answers

The model you have selected: WS-55805 should have a self check feature: when you turn it on and the green power light goes off: ON THE FRONT OF THE SET PRESS AND HOLD BOTH MENU AND INPUT together for at least 5 seconds and then release both buttons.

The power light should blink a two digit error code: for example: 2 blinks, a pause and 2 blinks--it will repeat the code about 10 times.

error codes for this set:

1, then 2 no error detected
2, then 1 X-ray protection
2, then 2 short protection
2, then 3 deflection circuit problem
2, then 4 vertical deflection problem


2, then 2 is the most common and easiest to fix.

Let me know what you find and if 2,2 I have detailed instructions for repairing that kind of trouble.

I am here to help people.

SD TECH

I had the exact same problem. I read the posts - jiggled the large heat sinc and saw the instant improvement of the convergence - intermittently - (the most helpful posts by FFJim and MikeNJ1964 thank you!). I then got a copy of the repair manual (online) and isolated the two Convergence Power Chips IC8D01 and IC8D02 according to the repair manual and are parts HIC-STK392-040). I was able to use an alternate way to get to the cold solder joints (broken solder points) on the bottom of the entire motherboard (all three boards) assembly (without removing the middle board) by removing many of the cables (9 or so) and leaving just the tube cables in the back right corner connecting the RGB complex. After removing the cables, and unscrewing the 3 wood screws holding down the plastic (black) housing holding the main boards, I was able to slide out, lift and twist the motherboard assembly on it's side while leaving the RGB complex cables at their location. Looking at the bottom of the motherboard assembly (inspecting all the solder joints) I found the area of cold solder connections for the STK392-040 by seeing where the two Mitsubishi WS-55805 IC8D01 and IC8D02 solder points were located. It appears the reason these solder points get loose is becaus of the large Heat Sinc they are connected to would heat up, lean and will break loose with movement of the TV. By just re-soldering the cold broken lead points (which were visible) it repaired my unit entirely. This can be done at home with just a simple solder iron and solder (make sure you heat the lead and solder pad and apply the solder to the hot area (not the iron). I had to do that to about 6 of the 30 or so leads. Then, I retraced my steps assembling the unit and it worked great!
Here is an image of my main board assembly from the manual.

To be kind you are wasting your time, This is a 1st generation HD set not designed for the modern equipment you are using---You cannot turn a Model A Ford into a Roll Royce.I has only one HD input designed for a set top HD box providing it a 1080 I signal.

The model indicated here has a self check if the green power light comes on f o r a few seconds and goes off, do you get the power light briefly or not at all?

Which of the five error codes does this set display?

A full service manual is available online---I will presume you tried to unplug it for a while and then power back to see if will reset itself.This set has three hidden menus---one is the OPTION menu--in that menu with the Mitsubishi remote you can do a hard reset of the entire set= sets all back to factory except convergence adjustments which are stored in another area--cures all kinds of oddball issues.I can give you a link to the manual and the page numbers for the OPTION menu.Note: the other two hidden menus are Convergence and adjustment--do not go into adjustment menu as one wrong move and poof! SD TECH

Televisions covered: all Projection with yellow picture, but not Projection TVs with a yellowish tint surrounding objects in a nearly normal picture.Yellow = red + greennormal picture = red + blue + green (RGB). See illustration.Fig. 1 Additive color mixing in an RGB monitor, or RGB Projection TV.The circuitry powering your blue output, or the blue light engine itself is starting to fail.Operating Theory:The lamp module shines a bright light into the optical unit; there are a series of lens and baffles, and at the top of the light engine, a lens puts the picture into a mirror which is reflected onto the screen; All video and color is processed thru the light engine. Blue most commonly fails first, leaving a yellow picture.

The cost always depends upon where you are located. To check the cost at your location, search internet for suppliers. Suppliers available on internet will give you quotation through e-mail. It is better if you locate the local market for the chip. It will cheaper in the local market.

that's a very common problem for that model which is almost always caused by bad DM capacitors. Replacing them should solve the issue. You can get the Mitsubishi repair kit called the WS45511- WS65511 DM repair kit from www.tvrepairworld.com which has the caps and the CD with detailed repair instructions.

please do the following:

When green light comes on and then goes off, ON the front of the set press and hold BOTH the Menu and Input buttons at the same time for at least 5 seconds and release both buttons.

Power light should blink a two digit error code; most common is:
2 blinks, 2 blinks, a pause and it will repeat the error for a total of five times.

Let me know what error you find and I will tell you what it means.

If this information told you something you did not know, rate this solution as very helpful as I do this here for free.

SD TECH

This model should use two of the STK392-040 convergence IC chips.
Parts cost on Ebay for a pair of these is under 35 dollars.


Repair does involve soldering and removal of middle board in order to get at the parts.

I have step by step instructions for a similar model that is available.

If you or someone you know can do the repair you can save a lot of money and the set.

These sets are much more reliable than the Plasma and LCD type sets.

Here in San Diego most shops get about 200-300 for this repair.

It can be done in your home, I have done hundreds of them in homes.

If you want to see the instructions let me know and we will find a way to get them to you.


Before you rate this information let me know if you have questions.


SD TECH

Open the service panel on the back of the TV. Inside you will find some fuses. Try checking those first.

The main board has an issue which has most likely blown a fuse. Those boards have been discontinued so repairing that one will be at least a couple hundred depending on the shop doing it.Or yo umay be ble to locate a used one on ebay .

tillung39,

See my tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r7065906-mitsubishi_turn_flashing_power_timer for more information and where to repair parts.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating.

hardrocko

i have a mitsubishi hd 1080 tv when i turn it on it turn of with 2 sec.what is the problem

fghirning,

It more than likely is a partially failed power supply. This model has a known problem with the electrolytic capacitors in the power supply and on the DM board. I have a tip at http://www.fixya.com/support/r7065906-mitsubishi_turn_flashing_power_timer which further explains the problem and where to get a repair kit to fix the problem.

Thanks for using FixYa and for the great rating. Please consider a testimonial. Thank you.

hardrocko

If you try to adjust convergence with the flash focus, perfect focus, (depending on the make of your set) or by manual convergence and the lines will not line up or even move. Your symptom sounds like a damaged convergence IC.

If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you.
While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky. If you have a 45W soldering iron, solder, solder wick, heat sink compound, and some basic soldering skills, you can repair the television yourself.
*** VERY IMPORTANT NOTE***
If your set is not producing a clear picture and the colors are not lining up, do not continue to watch the set as this can lead to further failure and possibly damage the individual CRT’s in the set.
I have repaired hundreds of these sets, so if you have any questions after reading the following, please reply to this post and I will help you in any way that I can.

With that aside I have some support suggestions that I have put together that may help you make an informed decision.

You should be able to get a local service center to repair this at your house for between $350.00 - $450.00, If you want to repair this set yourself, I have some instructions below that will be a help to you.
While it is not a very hard repair, this repair can be a bit tricky

How do I tell if the IC’s are damaged?
Since you cannot look inside of an IC, you will have to locate some of the components in the area around the convergence IC’s. You may be able to see some resistors that have changed colors or you test a resistor and it no longer reads the value marked by the color bands or the printed value. You will have to replace the IC’s and the supporting components.

When you remove the old IC's, please be sure to remove all of the old heat sink compound, as it can act as an insulator for the new IC's and cause them to overheat. I usually clean the heat sinks with alcohol and a small rag.


Where are the IC’s located and how do I find them?
There are two and large IC’s that control the convergence in a big screen set. Some of the newer sets only have one. If you only have one, it is right in the middle of the set on the center circuit board. They are secured to a very large aluminum heat sink. They will have a part number stamped on them that will start with an STKXXX-XXX, like STK392-110.

Along with the convergence IC’s there will also be some associated components that will need to be replaced as well. There are some resistors that are part of the convergence circuit that will be open and need to be replaced. Most likely these will appear charred in the center. If you have an Ohm Meter or a DVM, check all the resistors that are close to the IC’s and you should be looking for either ones that have opened or have changed values.

If one of the convergence IC’s are found to be bad, I would replace them both, if one has gone bad the other may go soon. I usually order my parts from Andrews Electronics in California, they will have the OEM components that you will need.
Their site is http://www.andrewselectronics.com/welcome.aspx
And their phone number is a 24-Hour Order Desk: (800) 274-4666
I recommend the phone order so you can talk to the person about the different types of IC’s that are available.

I would also advise that the convergence IC’s be OEM or better, just because they are cheap does not mean that they are a good deal. I have seen the cheap IC’s fail after a short time, even though they look exactly like the OEM IC’s. I think that the bottom line is that you will get what you pay for when it comes to the parts.

You can also try http://www.tvrepairkits.com/ , they do carry OEM or better parts. When you order from them you will get a kit with instructions on how to do the repair, step-by-step.



I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue.
If you need further assistance please comment to this post and I will try to help you further.
Thanks for using FixYa
asnowman