20 Most Recent Mitsubishi WS-55613 55" Rear Projection HDTV - Page 6 Questions & Answers

First: if you have never done this kind of repair--it is a little tricky on this set---WS-65869 uses a Single large convergence IC----with the back off it is located on a large metal heat sink in the middle of the board and foward----The best way to do this is remove the front speaker grill and plate in back of it and you will see the heat sink and IC. This set uses a STK-393-100 Ic----you can purchase it on Ebay from Surburban Electronics for about 13 dollars plus shipping---You really have to slide the whole chassis back a few inchs and remove all the screws that hold the board into the plastic frame-----there are several things you need to do to get the board out of the set--if you need more direct information I am in the San Diego area and you can email me at:

[email protected]


This is not a set I would suggest someone try to replace the IC who has never done it before-not the easiest set to do this repair on--I have done dozens of them and there are several places in the procedure where you need to be careful. If you manage to get the board out you also need to look at all the blue resistors in front of the IC( 3.9 ohm and blue in color---)if any of them are discolored they will also have to be replaced---they are protection parts in case the IC Shorts.

If this has been helpful give me a vote and if you need assistance email me.

The Green picture gun tube could be bad. It takes a Red , Blue and Green gun tube.

Almost hate saying this but in your case it applies. Unplug the TV from power for a couple minutes and then plug it back in. Also on the remote itself make sure when you are pushing buttons the the "TV" button lights up indicating that the TV is the device being cotrolled. If that doesn't work go to the MFG's website and look for answers there 1st...hope that helps you!

The blinking timer led is caused by the DM not completeing the boot sequence. The V26 dm repair kit will usually fix that issue. Its 35.00 at the following link and contains the replacement capacitors and instructions
http://servicemanuals.vstore.ca/product_info.php/pName/v26-dlp-dm-pwb-repair-kit/cName/repair-kits

convergence problem, ic's need to be resoldered if it happens intermittently, also solder all resistors and surronding components if problem persists replace ic's

The problem is the convergence circuit.
Mitsubishi used two different types of convergence IC's in this series. The first is a pair of STK-392-570, the second is a single STK393-110. The only way to fix the problem is to replace the appropriate IC'S. In some cases the problem may appear to be intermitent or loose solder connections. Save yourself the anguish and replace the IC'S.
Getting the PowerSupply/ Convergence board
out to do this is tricky and I recommend a professional to do it. Hidden screws on the front of the heat-sink make it difficult to take out and you can break the board easily trying to force it.

Try hooking the TV to a different outlet fed by a different breaker. Does the problem go away? If so, the culprit may be a wiring problem in your house that is causing the TV not to get enough power unless the dining room light is on.If in doubt, consult an electrician to make sure both the dining room light and TV outlet circuits are working properly.

The WS-55613 is not a DLP television. If this is the correct model number then you need to replace IC8C01 and IC8C02 part# STK394-250. They are located on the main board (in the middle of the chassis) and are mounted on a large aluminum heat sink.

hi
your convergence circuit has started giving trouble .... normal thing after a few years running for projection televisions ...... could be that the convergence IC's are getting too hot (two big IC's on a heast sink bearing an STK number on it) or that you have some loose soldering that needs to be resoldered on them.... worth the check
or have your power supply circuit board checked, if nothing seems wrong trouble leads to your horizontal deflection circuit board.
regards

Their is no more you can do.
Seen this before.

You need a professional.
Stop using the TV until it is repaired.
Continue to use the TV and your problems WILL multiply.

Call the manufacturer to find you nearest authorized service center.

MR. TV Sales & Service Inc
Milwaukee, Wisconsin 53405
(414) 762-8600
Established 1974

If the set is expecting component video (RGB) and you are sending composite (yel connector), it will appear this way
Make sure that the source end is sending composite video and that the cable is connected to the correct spot.


Unfortunately, with the complete reset, all of the parameters must be set. ... if not kindly get back to us....

thank you have a nice day

I had this similar problem TWICE!!!. I called around for a repairman and they charged over $300 dollars to repair (HELL NO). Anyways I took a trip to Vegas hoping to win some of the money to repair it and left the TV plugged in and BLINKING during my trip. When I came back it was not blinking anymore and I got curious. Well I pressed the power button and to my surprise IT TURNED ON!!!!. A month later I moved to a different house and unplugged my TV to move it and when I plugged it in the DAMN BLINKING GREEN LIGHT OF DEATH was back. Well I thought I'd get lucky again and leave the blinking on, well 2 days later the blinking was gone and ONCE AGAIN MY TV WAS ON...... I hope this helps and works for other people. My point is, before you pay for a technician to repair it and before you give up on your TV and unplug it, Try leaving it on BLINKING for a few days and see what happens.

GOOD LUCK GUYS.

try and see if you can autoconverge the green if not you going to need to get it serviced manually. thanks Btw, I’m available to help over the phone in case u need at https://www.6ya.com/expert/edwy_1a56970cf1ea4620

Instructions from the service manual...

you can go to Mitsubishi . com. get the number for the parts dept, or can order it on line, should be prity easty to do yourself, just tale all of the screws from areund the screen, from the back, there may be a couple in the front at the bottom of the screen, then lift up on the screen and remove it, should be able to replace from there, a service center would charge you around 200$

have tthe tuner checked...it may have gone bad

have the power module checked for continuity

Do self diagnosis test first, go to www.ctechnicians.com

FIRST....did the TECH replace the CAPS in the DM module??
If he didn't....he's assuming the WORST case scenario and ESTIMATING for that....

In your situation, CALL a Mitsubishi Authorized Service center (God I hope this other guy wasn't one !)

I do Mitsubishi service....and it looks like the Mitsubishi Service website is presently undergoing maintenance this morning....

Otherwise, I would have priced out a NEW DM module and seen if that's what he was estimating.....