20 Most Recent LG WM2101H Front Load Washer Questions & Answers

There is also a discharge lint filter on the front lower left that has to seal properly. If the water appears only when washing, you can probably eliminate leaking from the water supply side up to the solenoids controlling the water. The most likely source is a leak in the rubber section between the tub and the front door, a leak in the seal between the door and the washer, a leak or overflow in the soap dispenser, or a leak in the discharge side components. You could probably figure out the source if you could view these areas during a cycle, but that would require some disassembly of the cabinet so that you would need to know what you were doing.

Most likely the "hall" sensor. The motor position sensor. Pretty easy fix. Part is under $20. Check out appliancepartspros.com or repairclinic.com for how to videos.

Could be water level sensor or control board. If it won't drain, you should be getting an error code on the front panel. Also look at dialog at

SOUNSS LIKE A BAD CLUTCH IF DIRECT DRIVE AND IF BELT DRIVEN I WOULD CHECK FOR A WORN LOOSE BELT

No agitation? first use a multi meter and check ur water pressure switch? that is what sends the machine the message to start wash cycle? You can test it with a meter and with a manual test? ( first locate it in the panel, it has a plastic clear tube hose going into it, remove that tube from its connection, now put another small tube or hose into the slot where it was and have the machine set to wash cycle with water in it. Blow into the other end of the tube. If the machine starts to wash. the pressure switch is more than likely good ( No wash- then THE DIAPHRAGM IS BAD AND SWITCH HAS TO BE REPLACED) another test u can do is Remove the hose and submerge in water. Seal one end and blow air into the other end and look for bubbles. Check for an obstruction in the hose as well. Or take the original hose tube and plug one end and blow into it AT the other end, it should be hard and have pressure, if it is easy to blow and u dont feel any pressure and it feels like the air is going out ? Sometimes they get busted open or a pin hole and release air causing the water switch diaphragm to not open. Another test u can make with a multi meter is by testing the prongs individually. # 15,16,17 (don't worry to much bout the numbers IF U GET THEM WRONG) place ur meter prongs on both out side prongs or connectors of the switch. (where the wire plugs into) take note of weather it shows OHMS or infinity ( open or close circuit) ? Now place the meter on the left outside and the middle prong, take note agin what it shows. Now place meter prong on the right outside and the middle prong. Agin take note what reading u get. ( you should actually get a reading of infinity in 1 and a reading of continuity or ohms in the other 2? Now the tricky part. Agin place a small tube or hose into the switch and blow into it, using the meter do the same test agin on all prongs. But now keep the pressure on the switch when u blow into it, in other words use ur tongue on one end of tube to not allow air to escape. When u test it agin now one of the prongs that once read infinity should now show continuity or ohms, and 1 of the other prongs that read ohms should now read infinity or open. . If both check ok then next CHECK the motor coupler (a bad couplercan be checked by looking under the machine and taking note if there is a black residue on floor, look at coupler located between the motor and tranny, and see if it is broken up or missing any parts? Try to turn shaft by hand and notice if it does not engage tub? ) or belt if belt driven. Check for loose, broken or worn belt . Then check the door switch with a multi meter for continuity OHMS when door closed and infinity when door is opened , and if there is a little movement on wash cycle in 1 direction only then check the cam dogs in agitator. Also check THE CAM DOGS INSIDE THE AGITATOR, AS THEY WILL HINDER THE AGITATION PROCESS. However in G.E models the cam dogs are replaced with what is called an agitator coupler. (located at bottom of tub) Remember to check the agitator spline as well. for worn broken teeth By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

No spin, or lite spin try these: Using a multi meter check for continuity the door switch, which when bad may not allow agitation or spin. The lid switch assembly can fail either mechanically or electrically. Check the clutch, brake assembly and transmission, one way to check for slipping is to get under the machine after a spin cycle ( this is if u get a lil spin but not much leaving clothes still wet) mix in a spray bottle a lil water and some dish detergent, then spray it on the clutch assembly ( the metal round pc. Connected to the tranny) if it sizzles and steams up then u know its bad and slipping. Another way to check clutch if u get no spin at all? Is to take it out and use ur hand to try and turn the inner spring assembly pushing it around the inside? If its very easy, it BAD should be hard to push by hand. Or try the hand test: If no hammering sound has ever been heard out of this machine, one of the unofficial tests we professional appliantologists will do in the field is called the Hand Test. WARNING:This test is not sanctioned by Whirlpool Corporation; it involves bypassing safety equipment and then putting your hand on and near rotating machinery which could result in injury, dismemberment, disfigurement, disembowelment, mangling, hideous screaming, and a bloody death. Proceed at your own risk! Have a nice day. - put the timer on a spin cycle and open the lid- grab the inner basket with maybe 30% to 40% of your hand strength with your left hand - turn on the machine and bypass the lid switch by depressing the lid switch with a key until the machine begins to spin - if the clutch is engaging properly, the basket should immediately begin to spin and slip through your hand - if it takes very little force to stop the tub from spinning, the clutch needs to be replaced. Next check the motor coupler which engages the tub and tranny to the motor. ( if its bad u usually get no wash or spin or very little of either) Next if belt driven check for a loose, worn or broken belt. And on some models there is no clutch but rather what is called a splutch. And a MODE shifter. These can go bad and effect the spin cycle. On some front load models u may need to check the STATOR assembly. The stator is essentially one half of a motor, it interacts with the tub by creating a strong electro-magnet. If the stator burns out the washer won't spin or agitate. Check the stator for continuity. This part is often misdiagnosed. Sometimes a no spin machine can be due to a plugged waterpump hose or obstructed water pump propeller. Check these by eye and hand. And in some models check with a meter for continuity and voltage. next step is toremove the cabinetand jumper the lid switch harness (tan to gray). Put the unit in spin and watch the shiny metal clutch disc that is on top of the transmission where the shaft comes out. If the machine starts and runs in spin, check to see if the disc is spinning. If it is, then the problem isnot in the gearcase- look for trouble in theclutch,basket driveor the tub drive block If, on the other hand, the disc is NOT spinning, check for a problem withthe motor drive coupleror one of its retainers. This washer doesn't have a belt. Instead, the motor is directly coupled to the gearcase by a drive coupler; that's why it's called a direct drive washer. Read more:Diagnosing and Repairing Spin and Agitate Problems in a Whirlpool / Kenmore Direct Drive Washer http://fixitnow.com/wp/2010/07/07/diagnosing-and-repairing-spin-and-agitate-problems-in-a-whirlpool-kenmore-direct-drive-washer/#ixzz3XW7eZwiN By the way my advice is free cuz God is good!

not so good this means there is an issue with the controller board

load is out of balance.

The main control board of the machine could be faulty as this controls the spin cycle.

Remove the dispenser draw and pour water down the soap chute as much as you can to soften any soap causing the blockage. When the water level drops, add more water. After a while use a soft flexible rubber hose and run it down the chute up and down to remove caked soap. Once this has been achieved, run the machine on "Rinse & Spin" to clean out the drum.

check hoses connections- hot to hot and cold to cold at both ends. If not ok, check if you are setting the machine correctly. These days washing in cold water is effective.

bearings inner and outer needs to be replace.

It is possible that the machine does not start off the cycle because there are errors due to feedback from the inputs. For the program to start up the main program controller must initiate the INLET/MOTOR/DRAIN pump/ valve to open up and allow each function to be driven starting from the flow of water into the drum as also the drain valve to open to exit the water at the point of the program cycle. If this does not happen then the voltage at the valve/motor/pump must be checked or the fault relates to no voltage from the controller. If so the inlet valve can be faulty or if there is no power to the valvve then the controller can be a suspect.