Top 20 Dewalt 18v Battery Hammer Drill Dcd950 Dc925 Questions & Answers

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First check whether you have the correct transmission setting for the bit you are using. This may affect the range over which the chuck operates and how it locks onto the bit. A conventional small-diameter drill bit may not work with a hammer drill setting. If the setting is correct, then either your hands aren't as strong as they used to be and you're not getting the chuck tight, or the chuck is worn and no longer has enough friction to hold. Try this diagnostic: when you put a bit in, use a fine-tip felt marker to draw a line from the chuck collar (the part you turn to tighten or loosen) to the chuck baseplate. If the bit comes loose, check to see if the collar is still lined up at the same place relative to the baseplate. If it is, the chuck pieces are slipping inside; perhaps the transmission setting is incorrect for the bit chosen. If the collar has worked loose (the marks didn't stay lined up), the threading on the collar or the parts it engages could be worn.

If you do see a lot of sparks from the motor this means that the rotor of the motor is broken, needs to be replaced.

The charges has various electronic components. If one fails all the machine fails. It needs an experienced electronic engineer to fix it.

open the chuck right up and look for a Phillips headed screw at the bottom. This is a left handed screw which means that you will have to turn it in the direction as if you are doing it up to undo it. On the shaft there may be a flat section on the drive shaft that you can use a spanner on to hold the shaft and use a pair of multigrips undo the chuck normally. If there is no place you can hold the shaft you may have to take the front of the drill off to get to the shaft so you can hold it there.

Because the gear is broken?

Doesn't that mean it's fully charged?

Only the screw in the centre of the chuck would be l/h tread, the chuck should be normal thread and come off in an anti clockwise direction. Please confirm drill model number.They did a version where you needed a service tool to remove it and refit. It is torqued on.

The chuck has a problem. It needs to be replaced with a chuck with ratchet (when it locks it makes a crik crik crik noise)

If it does not go around and it goes around when you help it in the beggining this means that the rotor of the motor is broken

Try turning the ring to 2 or 3 and run the drill holding the chuck so the clutch slips then try turning it to drill setting. Also try to do it in different speed settings. If not it sounds like a fault in the gear module. It might just be a metal clip just under the clip in side. Undo the 4 screws holding the gearbox onto the housing and carefully remove it, you might see the fault or loads of dirt that needs cleaning. Go to http://www.2helpu.com/world/map.aspx for a drawing.

Yes, All diagrams are available at http://servicenet.dewalt.com/HomeJust put your model number into the search box. Have the type number handy too as it will ask for that. You can view and download the manuals and diagrams from there.

Hmmm some times the counterclockwise screw that attaches the chuck to the drill come forward and that is how then it stucks the 3 parts that fix a drill to a chuck. Check if this screw come forward. If yes then destroy it and replace it... We destroy it by using a drill smaller than it (usually it is 5mm so we use 4mm bit and of course a CARBIDE one because even cobalt ones can not drill a hardened bolt)

Other then it being something simple such as the actual shifter itself, the gearbox on those is somewhat complicated. Quite a few parts and you really have to disassemble and inspect everything. Not easy to do so you may not want to try and repair it yourself. Here is the parts diagram so you can see what's in there.DeWalt DCD960

Either bad batteries or a bad charger. You can use a multimeter to test for DC voltage output in the charger.

Put the chuck in a vice, put drill in forward position, hold on, and squeeze the trigger

The DCD950 drill has a chuck that does not require the reverse-threaded lock screw. It is put on with lok-tite and a good deal of torque. It is hard to remove without the Dewalt vice tool to hold it but not impossible. Some can be removed by tightening the chuck in a vice and, using the drill handle for leverage, apply steady, even, strong pressure until it breaks free. Using this method usually bends the part of the chuck in the vice making it useless. Another reason for the chuck not turning when the motor is turning is a broken transmission. If the chuck works properly in tightening down and releasing bits, your problem may be in the transmission. If you go to http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ and search for your model number you can look at a breakdown of your drill and what you're looking at to replace the transmission.

The trigger is probably going bad. A replacement trigger is around $30.00

There are two big plastic phillips head caps on either side of your drill.If you take these out, you will find the contact brushes. Don't worry; it's foolproof. I would replace the brushes if they look short. New ones are about a half inch long. Piece of cake. Lemme know how things went.

usually there is a cover on the back with torx drive screws that need to be removed. Some of the motors do not have changeable brushes though. I would recommend going to dewaltservicenet.com and downloading a parts diagram so you can see if they are available and the cover that I mentioned.