They refer to the relative tightness of the adjustable built in clutch. The lower the number, the less torque is applied before the clutch starts to slip. At the drill image on the ring, there is no slippage.
Why would you want such a thing??? Well because you don't want to strip a screw yo are installing or possibly break it. Whether you are putting small screws into soft wood or you are installing "TapCons" in concrete, this is a very good feature to have on your DeWalt or other fine battery powered device.
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Assuming you batteries are good you probably have bad brushes. They are located behind the vents-one each side- at the back of the drill. New ones are about 10 bucks from dewalt.
On the chuck you will find some numbers.Those numbers means the revs and power that is aply for cetain jobs.If you want to drill use the max number by turn the dial on the chuck to the select number.
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There is no loctite on the chuck threads, only blue loctite on the reverse screw. This is how I remove chucks.
Remove the REVERSE-THREAD screw at the bottom of the chuck. Set the clutch collar to the highest setting, and set the gear to the slowest setting on the transmission. Remove the power source! Get the biggest allen wrench you can fit in the end of the chuck(the shortest leg) and tighten the chuck down around it, allowing the jaws to rest and tighten on the flats of the wrench. Lay the drill on its side(chuck toward you, handle to the left, and allen wrench to the left, horizontal to the deck). Then with a hammer(soft hammer if you care about the allen wrench) quickly and deliberately hit the allen wrench in an attempt to cause the allen wrench to spin counter clockwise. Let me know if this works for you!
Possible reasons for this behavior:
Blinks Long (Red Light): If your battery is too hot, the charger will blink the red light rapidly and for an extended duration. To prevent this, ensure that your battery is not exposed to direct sunlight or excessive heat. Give it some rest to cool down.
Blinks Short: If the battery is too cold, it will blink short and fast. This could be due to prolonged exposure to cold temperatures or the battery being idle for an extended period. Allow the battery to charge for a while or bring it to room temperature to resolve this issue.
Blinks Very Fast (Doesn't Go Away): If the light is blinking very fast and persists, it indicates that your battery has gone bad and needs replacement.
A photo would greatly help with your issue, are both wires still attached to the capacitor?? in not, the capacitor must be replaced with one of the same value,
if the capacitor is ok, look for a wire with solder on the end but nothing else attached to it, or a solder point on a card with a hole in it or a solder joint that has broken free from the card,,, if you can solder well, and have the equipment,. it is good at this point because You'll need to re-solder them back together,,
again a photo will help me greatly in telling you exactly how to fix
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pNDgV_6k12E
Reverse and Forward Mode: Try putting the drill in reverse mode and hit the trigger, then forward mode. If that doesn't work, tap the tip on the driveway but don't slam it. It should release .
Use a Wrench: First, make sure that the chuck is in the locked position. Next, use an allen wrench to loosen the set screw on the side of the chuck. Finally, unscrew the drill bit from the chuck .
Remove Chuck Collar: Use a wrench or pliers to loosen the chuck collar and remove it from the chuck. Then, use a screwdriver or other tool to remove the chuck jaws and any other components that may be blocking access to the stuck drill bit. Once these components are removed, you should be able to access the drill bit and remove it from the chuck .
It's going to be a zener diode, that's the easy part, you will need to know the voltage as well, only way to know that is find a good charger and measure the voltage drop across the diode with a multimeter or find a schematic.
