20 Most Recent Yamaha HTR-5640 Receiver Questions & Answers

Hi, With the power off, try to disconnect every component and then power on the receiver. If it still shuts down, then it is an indication of an internal error and the unit needs to be serviced. Regards, Yamaha Support

Yes since most phonographs dont have audio jacks and where invented before man your best option is connecting a guitar pickup or microphone to the microphone jack

yes. You can hook a phono graph to any of the rca inputs, but the phonograph has to have an internal preamp.

Several settings, like Subwoofer YES.

Register and download the manual for free at retrevo.com

http://www.retrevo.com/support/Yamaha-HTR-5640-Receivers-manual/id/23135bh937/t/2/

What sub? Is it NEW to this scenario? Have you looked at ITS manual?

Generally speaking, an amp protects itself from heat, shorts and overloads by refusing to turn on or stay on.

Overloads can be from excessive periods of high output or marginally low impedance loading by the speakers; and shorts would be wiring issues or a speaker blowing up.

You should be able to feel if it's hot. WHY is it overheating? Make sure it has sufficient ventilation on all sides and that vent holes are not blocked by dust balls. Ensure the fan (if equipped) is running as designed (some only operate on demand). Clean dust and debris from it.

If the amp comes back on after cooling, you're lucky. They only have so many self-protection cycles in their lives so continuously resetting or cycling their power without addressing the cause can do more harm than good.

If it protects immediately on a cool power up you should disconnect the speaker connections and try it 'naked'. If it comes up then diagnose which lead(s) are shorted. If it does not come up the problem is internal and should be left to an experienced and competent hands-on tech.

Hi,

It sounds like the output transistor stage has some failing outputs which is conducive to the loud popping noise you're hearing. This is the most likely suggestion, another is that a capacitor is either shorted, or has a bad solder joint. If you really like the unit, it would be most likely not a very high cost to have it repaired. You can get a diagnoses for a small fee at most shops.To avoid possibly damaging other components down stream (loudspeakers), I would suggest taking the amp out of service until the problem is found and corrected.If you have electronics repair experience and would be able to keep all the precautions, inspect the transistors and replace all of them. They are known to make such popping and crackling noises.

Let me know,if needed further assistance.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

THE GOAL HEAR IS TO DETERMINE IF THE INSTALLATION (SPEAKER SETUP) IS CAUSING YOUR PROTECTION FAULT OR IS IT THE RECEIVER ITSELF HAVING INTERNAL DAMAGE. REMOVE THE RCA INPUTS AND DISCONNECT THE SPEAKERS, THEN POWER THE RECEIVER UP WITH THIS NO INPUT, NO SPEAKER LOAD CONDITION. IF IT STILL GOES INTO PROTECTION, THEN THE RECEIVER WILL NEED TO BE SERVICED, AS YOU HAVE TOTALLY SIMULATED A BENCHED CONDITION THAT IS TOTALLY INDEPENDENT OF YOUR INSTALLATION. NOW FOR THE POSSIBLE CAUSES. MOST TIMES, THE RECEIVE WILL GO INTO PROTECTION WHEN IT SEES AN EXCESSIVE LOAD WHEN TURNING UP THE VOLUME, WHICH IS USUALLY CAUSED BY TOO MANY SPEAKERS OR DAMAGED SPEAKERS, BUT IF NO SPEAKERS CONNECTED, THEN IT IS USUALLY BECAUSE THE RECEIVER SEES AN EXCESSIVE LOAD DUE TO ITS OUTPUT SECTION BEING DAMAGED. IN ANY CASE, ONCE REPAIRED, YOU MUST CHECK YOUR SPEAKERS FOR BURNED VOICE-COILS, WHICH WILL AGAIN IMPOSE AN EXCESSIVE LOAD TO THE AMPLIFIER AND CAN CAUSE IT TO FAIL AGAIN. MORE THAN LIKELY, THIS IS WHAT WAS HAPPENING WHEN IT WAS GOING IN AND OUT OF PROTECTION, THEN THE SPEAKERS FINALLY IMPOSE ENOUGH LOAD TO ACTUALLY CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE AMPLIFIER SECTION AND THIS IS WHY IT WILL NO LONGER EVEN POWER UP THE OUTPUTS TO THE SPEAKERS. JUST MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THOSE VOICE-COILS BEFORE INSTALLING AGAIN. YOU CAN USE A DC OHM-METER TO DO THIS, WHILE NOT TOTALLY ACCURATE FOR CHECKING IMPEDANCE OF THE SPEAKERS, IT WILL ALLOW YOU TO CHECK ONE SPEAKER AGAINST THE OTHER AND THEY SHOULD BE PRETTY CLOSE. IF THE SPEAKERS ARE 8 OHM, THEN IT MIGHT READ 7.2 OR SO. BUT BOTH SHOULD BE NEAR THE SAME READING. IF YOU SEE ONE WITH A READING OF MORE THAN .5 OHMS LOWER, THEN YOU MAY HAVE A VOICE-COIL THAT IS FAULTY. ALSO, IF YOU RECONNECT THE SPEAKERS AFTER THE RECEIVER IS REPAIRED, PLAY THEM A T A LOW VOLUME, ONE AT A TIME AND LISTEN TO EACH DRIVER AND SEE IF YOU CAN NOTICE ANY DISTORTION, WHICH AT THESE LOW VOLUMES WILL ALSO INDICATE A BAD VOICE-COIL. BY THE WAY, ALSO CHECK FOR ANY SPEAKER CABLES THAT MAY HAVE BECOME PINCHED OR OTHERWISE SHORTED. LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED FURTHER ASSISTANCE.....V

Those DVD s are specified for a different region. Unfortunately if your DVD player isn't "Region Free" they wont play.