20 Most Recent Husqvarna ChainSaw 18 in Bar 32 HP Model 350 Questions & Answers

could be the pawl catch on the crank shaft is not working properly, if this is an easy start model, there are two springs and two pulleys to inspect. usually second spring is the problem.

2 cylinder?? check both plugs have spark

yes just make sure u dont tap thru the cyl chamber

Standard procedure for removal of the drive sprocket on the saws i work on arerelease the chain brakeremove the sprocket cover... bar & chain clean all that sawdust and oil mud with brake cleaner and or bristle brushremove circlip with a flat head screwdriver and a prying motion* find circlipremove spur or rim sprocket Replace in opposite order.. being sure to align the chain speed driven oil pump with the notch in spur sprocket if equipped(some arborist saws require a piston stop to remove the clutch before you can remove the spur) BUY A STIH AND TALK TO YOUR DEALER.. THEY ARE FULL OF INFO AND VERY HELFUL

The throttle lock or dead man can be removed fairley easily, carefully splay the opening where the latch fits, at the same time pry the back end of the latch up,there is two small legs on the back that hold it in, once out it will pop up at the back, now pull it back toward the back of the saw and it will come away, it will expose the return spring, to remove the throttle trigger itself with the spring, tap out the steel pivot pin at the side of the trigger, through the orange tank, once removed pull the trigger back and out through the bottom of the rear handle, to remove the throttle push rod to the carb, remove the top cover, remove the air filter, gentlty pull back the leg of the return spring on the carb spindle ( this stops the rod jumping out of the spindle, ) do not deform this spring, hold the throttle full open on the carb with your finger, grab the rod with your other fingers and pull it out and back to remove it,check that the plastic end that slides into the tank is not badly worn, this is why they jam, whilst you are in there, look at the back of the red stop switch, the earth cut out wire which has probably come out, fits into the cut a way on the side of the switch, the metal terminal slides into the side of the red switch
the hole in the plastic is the same profile as the metal terminal, if it is too loose, splay the sides of the terminal out slightly to make a tighter fit.

Conected to the rubber induction boot is the impulse hose, it is a short curled pipe, make sure this has not split and is conected to the two nipples on the carb flange.

I don't know who serviced it, but if you just had the work done, and it's still not right, you should take it back and tell them to fix it properly. You should owe nothing also, if you already paid them for the work.

I am sending you one of my Tips that will fix the problem:

www.fixya.com/support/r6081405-cleaning_small_engie_carburetor

But I wouldn't do it until you raise cane with the service person and either get them to fix it, or give you your money back.

Good Luck,

Jim

Hi
I have seen something similar on my own saw some time ago. Probably two things have gone wrong. First there is something wrong with the transfer mechanism between the clutch handle and the brake spring. I do not remeber the exact detailsy, but there is a plastic part engaging a metal part in the transfer mechanism between handle and spring, that tends to wear out so that it will not release the spring when moving the brake handle. (look at the engaging mechanism where the handle is turning on its axle/bolt) If you take off the chain guard / cover you should be able to follow or see this mechanism and use a screwdriver and a pair og pliers and try to move the transfer mechanism so that the brake can be set to the released position. Once this is done the brake mechanism/cover can be taken off and you can clearly see what part that needs to be changed (I think it was the handle itself, due to worn out enganging plastic lugs). The brake spring obviously needs to be disengaged when assembling and disassembling.

Whent it comes to chain lubing, you can try to clean out the oil tank, blow through the hoses and look for dirt and particles clogging the lube circuit. As a test, when the lubing is working correctly, the chain should throw off visible amounts of small drops of oil from the tip of the blade, when you let the chain run at working speed just in front of a piece of paper or cardboard. If no oil stains appear, the lubrication is failing and overheating and excessive wear will occur. Use the correct oil too. The wrong type of oil can potentially ruin the lube circuit. There is a small plunger-type oil pump that is driven by an excenter located near the inside of the chain sprocket drive shaft. You can easily test its function by pressing the plunger carefully and see whether oil comes out on the lube oil opening. It should be cheap to replace if broken.

I hope this can help you.

Check the fuel line going into the tank for holes or tears. When you get it to run for the 30 sec. it is running off the prime from the bulb. Once it is running it should be sucking gas through the fuel line to keep it running. A hole or tear in the fuel line will cause it to **** air and die out.

The chain brake is activated, pull the hand guard fully back to the top handle until you hear the click of the brake loading

Basic stuff first, replace the fuel filter in the tank on the end of the fuel hose, clean the air filter, if fitted check the spark arrestor in the muffler is not blocked, check the fuel hose for splits or leaks, check the rubber induction tube between the cylinder and the carb for splits.

YEs, Its good, Engine suspension is better, hard suspension and no vibrating. power is ok! :)

Doesnt sound good, remove the two muffler screws, remove the muffler, check the condition of the piston through the exhaust port, any signs of scuffing, or piston damage and the cylinder will have to come off for possible replacement. Cylinders are very expensive so you need to consider wheather this is a viable repair.

Sounds like the rings may be burned out.

Classic air leak problems causes high uncontrolable idle, before anything else push the throttle spindle hard onto its stop just in case it is the spindle not returning properly, check the throttle flap in the carb has not come lose and is binding in the carb body.

carburator need to be adjusted. if is not have the adjustment then it need to be clean out.

If its lost compression i would remove the two/three screws holding the muffler, take a look through the exhaust port at the piston, if there is any sign of scuffing or damage it is going to be cylinder off.