Powermatic 143 14inch Band Saw Operateparts Manual - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Your powermatic band saw has a Magnetic motor starter. Since it is hard to find parts for the 143 you can remove the power and take the starter apart and clean the contacts. If that fails you can take it off and take it to a Electrical Supply Store and have them match you up with one that will work.

The way the switch works is when you push the on button it picks a relay that starts the motor and also has a contact the holds the relay picked. when you push the stop button it drops the circuit.

This is a safety feature to prevent the motor from restarting after a power failure until you hit the button

Hope this answers all your questions
Please remember to Rate/vote for any solution that helps you out.
Thanks for using Fixya.

Yes. Buy any with a suitable connector and fit the plug for your country. Make sure the voltage is correct first!

Hi Marsha- Here is the Powermatic website for customer support. http://www.powermatic.com/us/en/service-and-support/customer-support/ Hope this helps.

Descripition: its very Inside Diameter: 304.8 mm,12 in Outside Diameter: 444.5 mm,17.5 in Width: 63.5 mm,2.5 in A NSN Bearing

http://www.kakapart.com/parts/nsn-6285321.html EE291201 291750 bearing Tapered roller bearing 304 8 444 5 63 5 mm EOE... EE291201 EE291749 Tapered Roller Bearing specification http://www.cksbearing.com/showprod.asp?id=8054&listid=69

Probably a long out of date question but my suggestion is to purchase a link style belt to replace the old hard drive belt that comes with the saw. It'll deliver more power to the blade, run quieter and work better. I also recommend replacing the drive pulleys while you're at it. Get a couple of balance ones. You can get a link belt at Rockler or other woodworking outlets. http://www.rockler.com/1-2-power-twist-plus-link-v-belt

we usually get our parts off of this site. http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ They have most of the things that we need.

it is not the switch. it is the start run capacitor. it is located under the hump on the motor. becarfull when you uncover it, it may still hold a charge. after you have removed the cover you must replace that shiny things that has all the wires in it. careful to put the wires back that way thy came. and get a capacitor with the same UF Microfarits.

L Luke, closest I could find is May 1983. http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/655/6140.pdf

Here is a link to the Accu-fence manual. It Includes the adjustments. From you description I think you will find that the adjustments will solve your problem http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/2195075Z_man_EN.pdf

I believe that that model of Powermatic has a lock for the blade angle that also extends and retracts the casters for moving the saw. You may have unlock or change the handle position to allow for blade angle adjustment. You can get a manual or information at the Powermatic website to show you how to change the settings on the saw. Hope that helps.

As you only have 4 wires from the motor it should be straight forward as two would be from the start winding (Black and red) and the other the run winding (White with yellow stripe and Blue). You should be able to check this with a tester as there should only be continuity between the wires as mentioned above. Reference the thermal switch, I am not 100% sure on the color codes but have attached a diagram which should help but will advise as best as I can on the connection. The diagram is for a high/low voltage but you can disregard the winding on 3 and 4 but should help on the understanding. Join the blue and black wire from the motor together and connect to the black wire from the supply. You should be able to run the motor (Excluding the thermal switch) by connecting the White with yellow stripe and the red wire together along with the white from the supply. To include this switch I would presume that you would connect the red wire from the motor to the brown wire from the thermal switch, the yellow wire from thermal switch to the White with yellow stripe from the motor and finally the white wire from the thermal switch to the white from the supply.

Type in owner's manual powermatic 72-ta in Goggle. The second one pdf looks good. Download your free manual.

usually there is a plate where the wires go into the motor and on the back of it is a wiring diagram for switching from 220 to 110.UNPLUG TOOL BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING.

You need to do some maintenance on your saw. First unplug it. Then blow out the sawdust from inside the saw, especially around the trunnion ways and gears and worm gears that engage them to raise/lower and tilt the saw. Use a good quality lubricant to lube these worm gears and the shafts and pivot points. I use motor oil, have for years, and find it does a better job and lasts longer than any kind of grease or silicone. Use an oil can with a long spout so you can direct the oil where needed, then move the saw up/down or right/left to work the oil into the worm gear and mechanism. In a pinch WD40 is fine, though it won't last as long. Periodic re oiling will maintain the mechanism in peak condition, and the drops of oil you spill in the process won't do any damage to your so. No, it won't get gummed up with sawdust. Try it, you'll like it.I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

I bet the grease has set up and the worm gear is just frozen in place. Have you tried spraying some oil or wd40 or silicone lube into the worm gear, and lubricating the trunnion ways? I can't believe that if you've unlocked the handle lock and pushed the handwheel in the saw won't tilt at all. You can download manuals for that saw from here. See page 14 for more details, or get someone who's mechanically inclined to take a look at it for you. If the saw is new, it has a 5 year warranty.See here for repair or parts info.I hope this information allows you to resolve this issue. If you need further assistance, please post back with a comment to this thread. If I've managed to answer your question or solve a problem, please take just a moment to rate this post....thanks!

Go to eRP ----->link.

While a crown is desirable as it helps tires to last longer, it is not absolutely essential. If properly set up the bandsaw should run fine, but just expect the tires not to last as long as crowned wheels as the crowns help keep the teeth off the tire surface.

If the fuel in it is 2 or more months old dump it out and put in fresh fuel and try statring. Also try try a squirt of starting fluid into the carb. If it fires on it you may need to do this a few times to pull the old fuel in the lines through till the fresh fuel can get to the carb.

closes I could find.copy and paste.https://www.carbatec.com.au/documents/manuals/Carbatec/Bandsaws/SW-1401-manual.pdf

Question edited for clarity, 'make model (what it is)', in full. No manual, just parts. Try black and Decker direct. https://www.google.com/search?q=black+and+decker+9443+bandsaw+manual https://support.blackanddecker.com/hc/en-us/p/all_locations ..