20 Most Recent Jonsered Tecomec Chainsaw Chain Sharpner For Chainsaw Questions & Answers

Yes I do. Do not over tighten the H and L needles you will ruin the needle seats (clockwise closes the needle jet, counter clockwise opens the needle jet) There is no air mixture needle on a chainsaw carb (2 cycle engine) all are gas mixture needles H - high speed operation, L - low speed operation. [The saw carburetor operates like a 4 barrel carb on a 350 chevy, runs on 2 but kicks in all 4 when you hammer it.] Turn the H needle to 1(one) full turn open (counter clockwise). Turn the L needle to 1 1/4 (one and one quarter) turn open (counter clockwise). NEVER EVER close the H needle to less than 3/4 open or the L needle to less than 1 turn open. If you do you will burn the saw up from lack of oil lubrication. [I have several Jonsereds saws a 52E, 451EV, 49SP, 520SP, 621 race saw, 630, 70E, 70E race saw, 80E and last but not least a 90E. I worked many years for the importer and distributor of Jonsereds as a Territorial Rep. All my saws run like a top. My newest saw is a 1984. I chainsaw carve and cut firewood with all of them year round. In short I like-em, they're the best.] I find that all my saws run the best and strongest with the carb set at around 7/8 turn open on the H needle and just above 1 turn open on the L needle. The idle screw I set last after the saw responds correctly to the carb settings. I quick throttle the saw to make sure the saw picks up RPM and doesn't fade out, put in a log to make sure it maintain tourque under load and not bogg down (tweak the H & L if needed, remembering the 7/8 - 1 1/4 rule I adjust the idle screw to where the saw sound smooth and un-labored at idle. I never let it idle to where the chain moves when it idles. For safety reasons. Hope this helps. EdN

There are several things that can cause this. One is using gas that is too old. Another is that the mixture is too lean.

Just type tecomec FL 136 manual on internet and you will be able to download
the owners and parts manual for all the Tecomec sharpeners.

It's probably clogged up. Empty the oil out and blow it out with compressed air. Make sure you use oil designed for the purpose.

Try playing with the fuel mix screw, one of two that can be accessed on the outside of the saw. one should be marked "T" and the other "S" play with the "T" screw, wind it all the way in and back it off 1 turn as a starting point then half a turn out until you get a result. alternatively... unfortunately, it sounds like the piston rings have gone. go shopping.

depends on condition and what comes with it. generally starts at $500 in good shape and up to 850 if excellent with many extras (chucks, rests, knurling attach, faceplates, etc) Also, check for accuracy...

Yes all the tool places say discontinued. Yes, bypass it, but make sure you don't overwork the grinder. https://www.google.com/search?q=2610904741 ..

Out of warranty ... time for a replacement machine.I would choose a different make. Assuming the batery is not the fault.

DIRTY CONTACTS POSSIBLY

Size for size and component value identical on replacement. Fit the correct part.

Considering how potentially dangerous grinding machines and wheels are and how much safety legislation exists about their maintenance, adjustment and use, a great deal of printed matter exists about these things and the wide range and selection of wheel material. You should have no bother finding useful information, fortunately bench grinders are extremely similar to each other... https://images.homedepot-static.com/catalog/pdfimages/b6/b64b39fb-6d42-4fec-a274-76bbd950e6d8.pdf

Mmmm... that's a little more complicated. If you have a continuity / resistance meter, we can noodle it out, though. First, are the two white wires the ONLY wires coming from the motor? I suspect they are - that's not in conformance with any accepted color code, but it'll work. For the rest of this, I'll assume that the two white wires are the only ones from the motor. You'll need to meter the switch itself, with no wires connected to it. In the OFF position, you shouldn't find continuity between any of the four switch contacts. In the ON position, you should find continuity between two pairs of contacts. The black wire from the power cord should go to ONE of the two switch contacts in a pair that have continuity with the switch turned ON. One (either) of the white wires from the motor should go to the other switch contact IN THAT PAIR. That leaves you with one more pair that has continuity with the switch turned ON. The white wire from the power cord goes to one of those, and the second white wire from the motor goes to the other one. When you have it all wired up, plug it in & turn it on. If it's not right, it should immediately pop your circuit breaker. If it IS right, it should run fine. If it pops your circuit breaker, open it back up and swap one wire from the power cord and one wire from the motor.

Search using https://www.google.com or eBay.com Example of search result: http://www.1sourcecomponents.com/partinfo/Fa4-12/2bd%20trigger%20switch.htm

One turn.

Find a Single Pole Single Throw (spst) toggle switch at the local hardware store rated for the load of the grinder. Wire the switch in place and viola you are done! Machines are stupid;they can tell the difference between an oem part and a replacement.

You can get a replacement toggle switch at any hardware store look in the electrical department.

If you can't find the direct replacement check with Grainger or other industrial supply house ... https://www.grainger.com/category/push-pull-switches/automotive-electrical-and-lighting/fleet-and-vehicle-maintenance/ecatalog/N-15m5?okey=push-pull+switches&mkey=Push%2FPull+Switches+&refineSearchString=push-pull+switches&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=push-pull+switches&searchRedirect=push-pull+switches&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6&nls_boost_words=noContent

I cleaned all the wiring connectors etc and used a 4-way extension cord with an i/o switch and thermal/arc breaker surge protector thingy. I had a piece of thick cable with a molded three prong plug which I had removed from a dead paper shredder (I think??) and connected the ground to the case (previously not connected) the black to the black and white to the white. I taped the connections and plugged the test cable into the extension thingy with its switch off and plugged it into the wall outlet. Then, with the grinder switch on, I gingerly switched on the extension thingy and the grinder (sans all moving parts) ie just the motor case and spindle (held securely in the B&D workmate) and viola(!) it worked fine and built up to very fast. I switched off the grinder switch and the motor slowed, taking an age to come to rest.
Then, I fitted a grinding wheel on the left hand thread end, tightened everything and retested, using the grinder switch to start it and it spun really fast.
Soooo, I guess the secure ground is an essential feature of a capacitor induction motor. I checked some old furnace motors that were "maturing" in the basement and they had no capacitor but only 2 wires...
I am now trying to remember which parts came off last and put it all back together. I plan to test it each time I put a part back...just in case. I hate it when you fix something on the bench and when rebuilt, it won't work...don't ask about the electric starter on the snowblower..not a happy puppy!
Please, pretty please and then some, do tell me if my "fix" is wrong and I could risk all kinds of nastiness.
Thanks,
Jenni.

Jet 577102 is a bench grinder with 1HP motor. It has got guards on the grinding wheel. Dust vents and guard makes the grinder makes it an efficient grinder. 115 Volt is needed to run this high performance grinder.

Sometimes it could be like this contact by the centrifugal interrupter or the powerswitch or startcapacitor (only if its buzzing) an other kind of relay switch it should be simple to measure it .but to adjust it for time release can be ??.