20 Most Recent Campbell Hausfeld 5HP 20 Gallon Single Stage Cast Iron Air Compressor VS5006 Questions & Answers

valve bent/burnt/stuck open.. remove the cylinder head and inspect

Breakers operate according the heat built up in them. The more amperage a circuit draws, the greater the heat that current produces in the breaker. Check to be sure the compressor is turning as freely as it should. If all is as it should be, the motor is overheating and should be replaced.

I am a C-H service center and using the model number VS5006 I got the following: - Your Pump Part Number was originally VS260000KB, now it's VS260000SJ. That's the complete pump and suggested retail is $199.99. - The valve kit for that pump is part number VS261000AJ. The kit includes all the gaskets, reed valves and valve plates between the head and cylinder, suggested retail is $33.80.You can go to http://www.ereplacementparts.com/ and, using the model number VS5006, see a breakdown of your compressor or, using VS260000SJ, see a breakdown of the pump to make sure we're talking about the same air compressor and pump. The parts are available through them or you can use the part numbers to search other sites for better prices.

http://www.chpower.com/manualsearch/

The issue suggests that the head gasket is blown between the two cylinders or the reed valves are not seating or broken. The only other condition that would cause this is a leak. Here are a couple of simple tests. For leak spray soapy water on all connections and fittngs including the pressure regulator and the bottom of the pressure switch while unit is running. Repair as needed. If no leak is found, run compressor untill it reaches 60 or stops increasing and feel for suction at the air filter intake. The best way to check for suction is to remove the air filter and feel for suction at intake port-hole. The suction should be very strong. When valves are leaking it almost feels that the air is blowing out thru intake. If little or no suction, remove head and valveplate and replace parts as needed. Parts are available at www.chpower.com or www.toolpartsdirect.com. Good luck and post again if you have other question.

Un-plug the compressor and remove the cover to the pressure switch. Inspect wire connections for burned /discolored wires. If not burned, look for button to manually trip switch (switch has on /off lever, place in on position). Test with ohm meter for continuity. Switch is normally closed and contacts are usually visable to evaluate condition. Some compressors use a very small sealed pressure switch that is also normally closed.

To solve the problem, first check the basic requirements for good function. The deflection of the belt should be 1/64 per inch of span between the centerpoint of the two pulleys. An example, if pulleys are 12" apart, the deflection is aprox 3/16". Next check for air leaks. With air in the tank at about cut out pressure, shut down unit and listen carefully for leaks (spray with soapy water) and repair as needed. Most likely leak is at the in-tank check valve. Remove the airline from the check valve and apply soapy water. If the check valve is leaking the pump with work extra hard to fill the tank. Clean the valve or replace if leaking. If no leaks, then suspect reed valves or head gasket. If reed valves or head gasket are leaking internally, the unit will take longer to fill and the discharge tube will be very hot. To keep track of the overall condition of your unit, you should know how much time it takes to reach cutout pressure. Ideal would be to time the unit when new then retest every month. If unit begins to take longer to fill, you know that a component is failing. Finally check that mounting bolts are tight and brace is not broken or cracked (some compressors have a very thin mounting plate causing the motor or pump to vibrate and the belt to wobble, a brace is added from the top of the pump to motor or motor mount). Good luck and let me know what you find.

http://www.chpower.com/manualsearch/You can get a wiring diagram from them directly

Hi dmream55...

Here are a few things to check, you may have already checked some of these.

Electricity...Compressors will run best with full 115Vot 15AMP/Or 220V electrical supply from a circuit, over the shortest electrical cord as possible.

Air Leaks..Place your ear close to the compressor and listen for air leaking, if you hear air that is not normal and means you have to locate and repair whatever it is that is leaking.
Check the air unloader valve... The air unloader valve will blown out air when you turned off the compressor, that is normal.
But it should not have air leaking out of it all of the time. If so then it is faulty and in need of repair/replacement.

Valves...If either the intake or exaust valves fail, breaks, or fails to seat, then your compressor will run 24 hours a day and never build up to the correct pressure for shut-off.

Gaskets...Check to see if your gaskets have failed.
You could have a gasket failure between the pistons and you will never know it because it shows no external air leak.
If this situation happens then the air will only cycle between cylinders and never build up the correct air pressure.
One way to check the gasket is remove the air filter, then put your hand over the intake.
If correct then it will **** you hand against the intake.
If the valve or valves have failed then you will feel the air sucking in and blowing out.

Piston Rings and Cylinder...The piston rings could be stuck,broken, or worn and not allowing the correct pressure to build up in your tank.
A worn cylinder will also contribute to the problem of pressure build-up.

Pressure Switch...Check for air leaks at the pressure switch, it has a rubber diaphram that can fail and leak air out of the system.
Please take time to rate me

Check Valve in the tank where the air
enters from the tubing leaving the compressor

Call Campbell & get a new one
They are good to talk to on the phone
& you can order parts without all the internet hassle

Mobile synthetic 10-30 , Craftsman compressor oil if K-mart or Sears are near by. You can also use a non-detergent 10 - 30 motor oil , I use Mobile or Craftsman in mine. I have three - one is a Campbell Hausfeld this oil is per their book - (minus the Craftsman)

Don F

The pulley on the compessor only came in one size ~ about 10 inch. The motor size pulley would depend on the speed of the motor. To get a good volume of air, the pump needs to turn about 800 to 1000 rpm(most pumps have max rpm at that range, good idea to check ). Gas engine turns at 3000 ~ 3600 rpm so use about 3" pully or determine by counting the number of turns of motor/engine to make one revolution of the pump. Electric motors will turn 3450 or 1725. Choose pulley to turn pump at desired speed below max pump rpm and capacity of the motor.

no, do not block with a solid plug. This allows air to bleed off the compressor so it will restart when pressure switch makes. If air continually bleeds out of this hole i would check the tank check valve . It is bad or has trash or something keeping it from closing. If check valve is bad it will allow air from the tank to bleed down until compressor starts or no air left in tank if shut down