20 Most Recent Samsung RSG257AARS (241 cu ft) Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

Firstly, unplug your refrigerator unit. There is a small phillips-head screw up underneath the display panel. Remove this screw, and then gently grab underneath on both sides of the panel. Pull out toward yourself gently and it should pop out. The ice dispenser should have a few more screws to be removed. Once these are removed, the ice door assembly (because it is an assembly, motor and all) should easily be removable. Make sure you look for and disconnect the electrical connectors of these pieces before attempting to remove them from the unit.

The units I have seen which have a flap, if water gets in from some drippage, it can freeze and make things get stuck. You might try some hot water on a small towel against the outside of the flap to see if that would melt any ice accumulation, or if you put a small pan under the flap hole on the outside to catch runoff and dribble a bit of hot water from the inside hole down spout to melt any ice that might free it up if that is causing it to stick. You also might be able to fish out the ice from the inside and give flap a push to open it, or use a plastic spoon or spatula to push it through. While you might be tempted to melt the ice with a hair dryer, don't do that. It could be very dangerous if water suddenly spewed out and got into the heating element or motor and cause a fire or electric shock. Stick to not water and plastic to try and push it from the inside outward. Usually the mechanism to grind the ice is up above inside the freezer, not in the hole in the door. If the door got stuck because its hinges came loose broke you might have to call a service center to come and replace it if you are unable to yourself. Be careful and don't try anything if you are unsure of yourself.

Fridge freezing up and no fan or air circulation: when the defrost terminator has gone out and u get ice build up? u can check the terminator with a multi meter for continuity but do not check at room temperature. stick the terminator in cup of ice water for 20 minutes then check it for continuity, should be closed when cold and open at room temperature. May also need to check the defrost timer, u can get by and test manually by placing a small screw driver into the tiny slot or hole underneath the timer and turn slowly clockwise till u hear 1 click. this will engage ur defrost cycle in about 15 minutes u should be able to come back and feel the heat in freezer as it melts the ice providing ur terminator is not bad? Another way to test it is with a multi meter. Remove timer it from fridge and you will see 4 prongs numbered 2,1,4,3 in that order. Place ur meter prong on prong 1 & 3 (if your fridge has a capacitor wired in series with the windings, then u check for micro fares rather than OHMS) If u cannot confirm this test, still try the next. Take ur meter prong and connect to prong 1 & 4, it should read resistance or ohms ( closed) now remove prongs and place on prong 1 & 2, this should now read infinity or open (no ohms) now take a small screwdriver place it in the tiny hole or slot under the timer. Turn it clockwise slowly till u hear 1 click. Now ur 1& 2 should read closed ( showing ohms or resistance) now place meter prongs on 1 & 4 and you it should now show open ( or no resistance - no ohms) this is how u know ur timer is good, Remember when testing for ohms ADJUST meter to use a high ohms rating in the thousands as the resistance is very high in OHMS. And adjusting to low ohms rating may give a false reading or not show the proper resistance.. Another item to check with a meter is the heating element itself. Located under the evaporator coils. It should show continuity or resistance OHMS WHEN TESTED AT BOTH ENDS OF THE PRONGS . Lastly check the cold control thermostat with a meter for both OHMS and volts ( VOLTS is a live test with fridge plugged in so be careful) It must show 110 volts. An open or thermostat that reads infinity will not allow the proper cooling and defrosting cycles to operate and may in fact stop anything from happening as if there is no power to the unit?

Hi,Just a few things I need to know first.Are the lights on?Did you check the power supply?Is the display functional?If the lights are on, does it appear to have staled?Please get back to me when you have a chance.Thanks I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gere_bf68e6055dd61249

Here is the board to order. To replace the board, on the back of the unit there is a small access panel. Remove the screws and the panel and you will see the board.

Thermostat broken.

If you block the vent that gives airflow form the freezer to the fridge it will prevent the airflow and so reduce the cooling in the freezer. Check that you don't have something against the vent that is located on the freezer side of the fridge in section.

I'm no expert but because of the problems I've had with this product, I'm getting better. It depends on the model Samsung that you have. I don't know if yours is the same model as mine so it may be a different set up. Mine is a RFG297AARSXAA. Look at your owner's manual for the model number and then go to http://www.searspartsdirect.com. Then enter your model #. Click on the parts tab & look at the schematic for your ice chute. It sounds like you need to replace the Route case (E.g., for my refer, it is PART NUMBER: DA97-07361C [Substitution: DA97-07361T] for my model of refer. It cost about $68.00.

Unplug your refer and shut off the water feed for safety reasons.

You need to remove the old ice chute. You do this by pulling forward (by hand only) on the front display panel from its underside. You will notice a small rectangular hole on the right underside that is large enough for the tip of a wide flat blade screw driver. You can insert it here to assist in pulling the panel forward. Don't insert it too far, only enough to give you some purchase on the panel. Start pulling on this right side and work your way over to the left side being careful not to break the tabs that hold the panel in place. There are two tabs on the right and two tabs on the left and one at the middle top. Once you work out the two tabs on the right, the other tabs will release more easily. Once the panel is removed, it is just "plug & play." Unscrew (2 or 3 screws) the old Route Case and install the new one. Just match up the wire connectors & plastic tabs the same way they were on the old route case. When the new chute is mounted, insert the LCD panel on to the left tabs first making sure that the wires are tucked into place properly and not "pinched" then work your way over to the right side and pressing the panel on the edges (press around the edges only, don't press the LCD screen) to make sure the panel is seated securely on to the tabs on both sides and the top. Turn on the water and plug it in and you should be good.

Probably indicates a leak inside the ice maker that froze the bucket to the icemaker outer shell. Our Samsung (under warranty) has had the ice maker components replaced twice in under a year for internal leaks (I think the 2nd repair has finally solved the problem - it leaked from the beginning, we had service out after 4 months, it continued to leak, and we had service out again a few months later). First time, the tech had to take a blow dryer to melt some of the ice that had built up inside the unit, to free the bucket, so he could replace the components. CAUTION: water contacting a blow dryer can cause an electrical short and personal injury. Be VERY careful if you resort to that method to melt the ice, and be sure to put towels under the ice chute to catch water. Also be sure not to use too hot a setting so the ice maker plastic doesn't become deformed. When in doubt, call for professional service.

If you do not have a frost build up on the back wall, you could have lost all of your gas. if you pull the back panel and only see a small amount of frost neer the top it is out of Freon