20 Most Recent LG LWD3081ST Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

I have a newly installed single wall over that came up with an F19 error code. The oven electronics worked fine but the oven wouldn't heat up. I moved the breaker up one slot in my federal pioneer panel to straddle the black bar (2phase) and now the oven works fine. If the breaker is in the improper position the oven will only be getting single phase power and you will get an F19 error code. I don't think this is the only time you will get this code but this may help some with new installs.

1.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 2. 3.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse. THINGS TO CHECK: the broil element is the heating element that is found at the top of the oven and produces a very high heat for broiling. If the broil element isn't working, you should first do a visual inspection for signs that the element has blistered or separated. If the element appears normal then you can check for continuity with a multi-meter. Remove power from the appliance before performing this test. Remove the back panel and locate the terminals for the broil element and inspect the terminals and wires for signs of overheating or damage. If there is no continuity then the element will need to be replaced. If the wires are damaged then they will need to be repaired. If the element is ok then you will need to check the broil circuit to determine the cause. This involves live voltage checks and should only be performed by qualified persons. Components to check include fuses, if the range is equipped, and oven control thermostat or electronic control. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The bake element is the heating element that is found at the bottom of the oven. Most electric ovens use both the bake element and the broil element in a bake cycle, with the bake element performing 90% of the heating. If the bake element isn't working, the oven may not heat. To help determine if the bake element is defective you should first do a visual check. If the element is blistered or separated then it should be replaced. If the element appears to look normal, then turn the oven on to a bake function for a minute and then turn it off. Check the element for signs of heating and if it is still cold then it may be defective. Disconnect the power and then remove the back panel. First check the wires as they may have become loose or corroded. If the element appears to be fine visually, test it for continuity with a multi-meter. ( by placing the each of the meter prongs on each end of the heater element connectors) If the element is burned or no longer has continuity, it will need to be replaced. Depending on the manufacturer of the element, you will normally read between 19 ohms and 115 ohms The oven safety valve (also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

Oven comes on and off intermittently or heats very little: If the timer feature is activating and you have not touched the timer button at all, this would have to be a failed Electronic Oven Control. The timer button is either shorting at times or closing on its own from heat or moisture. The Electronic Oven Control would need to be replaced to repair the problem. Or Why does it take the oven so long to bake? When the food is taking way too long to bake, it's probably a weak bake ignitor. Replacing the ignitor usually fixes this problem, but you probably want to verify that the ignitor is the problem before replacing it. Sometimes the oven thermostat or oven sensor can be calibrated wrong, or it may be faulty. If your particular range has an oven that uses an electronic thermostat, and the oven temperature is off by tens of degrees, you probably have to replace it. On most units that have a mechanical thermostat, you can actually remove the thermostat knob, and adjust the knob to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat. On many models, there's a screw on the back of the knob with a small calibration plate or ring. You can loosen this screw and adjust the calibration plate. Remember to tighten the screw again. If yours isn't adjustable, and the temperature is off by a large amount, you should just replace the thermostat. Or Oven safety valve needs to be checked with multi meter ohms / voltage ALSO Test the Burner Heating Element The stove's burner heating element is a coil of metal sheathed in an insulator. Electrical current travels through the element. Resistance to the passing of electrical current causes the element to heat up. A precise temperature cannot be set for a burner, instead it is turned on and off repeatedly by the control to the achieve an average temperature. When it is set to a low temperature, the element is cycled on and off more frequently. For high temperatures, the heating element is energized longer with fewer on and off cycles. Some burners have two elements, with the second only being used only for high heat settings. Before testing the heating element, unplug the appliance or shut off the power at thefuseboxorbreaker panelto avoid an electrical shock hazard. When a burner does not heat at all, or only heats up to a lower than expected temperature, the problem is likely to be with the heating element, the temperature control switch, or the wiring. If it only heats at the highest temperature, the problem is with the control or an electrical short, not the burner. If the burner works only intermittently, the problem is likely in the wiring or connectors. To test the heating element, try the following steps. First, disconnect the heating element from the stovetop. In most cases, this is done by lifting up the burner on the side opposite of the terminals (the part of the burner that disappears under the stovetop). Remove the decorative ring. Inspect the style of connection. If the burner element has visible blades that fit into the receptacle block, pinch the block with one hand, and pull the heating element free with your other hand. If the terminal block clamps over the element, the housing must be removed and the burner wires disconnected. Unsnap the metal piece or remove the screw that secures the receptacle block and then disconnect the element. Inspect the heating element. If you find bubbles, warping, or damage to the insulation sheath, the burner must be replaced. If the terminals are dirty or corroded, this can cause poor temperature control, intermittent problems or complete failure to heat. Clean the terminals with steel wool or very fine sand paper to restore good conductivity. Test theresistanceof the heating element using amulti meter. Set the multi meter to the ohms setting X1 and touch one probe to each of the terminals. A normal reading is typically somewhere between 20 and 120 ohms. The exact reading differs by manufacturer and mode. If the meter reads infinite resistance or the other extreme of the scale, zero resistance, then the element is damaged and should be replaced. If the measured resistance differs significantly from the expected range, the element is probably bad, but if possible, determine from the manufacturer what the actual resistance should be. To test for a grounded or shorted element, touch one probe to the surface of the burner and the other probe to each terminal in turn. If you get continuity at any time, the heating element is defective and should be replaced. The reason for my free advice is GOD is good!

F9 problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, it's probably a problem with the lock mechanism. A common problem on many built-in GE ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes the panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen behind it is clean.

F9 is a problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, it's probably a problem with the lock mechanism.A common problem on many built-in GE ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen it is clean.

F9 means problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, probably a problem with the lock mechanism. A common problem on many built-in ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes the panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen behind it is clean

F9 is a problem with the oven door lock circuit. If the door is locked, it's probably a bad switch that tells the oven it's locked. If the door isn't locked, it's probably a problem with the lock mechanism. A common problem on many built-in GE ovens (you don't say if yours is built-in or free standing...) is air circulation in the control panel. The fan that keeps the panel cool either stops working or gets clogged with dirt/dust and can't move any air. This causes the panel to overheat and can cause all kinds of odd problems and error codes. If you have a built-in, check to make sure the fan is working and the mesh screen behind it is clean.

Nothing Works, or the Oven / Range / Stovetop Works Only At Certain Times: 1.Home breaker flipped or the fuse blown?Possibly an electrical surge has flipped the breaker. Check your breaker or fuse box and replace or reset as necessary. 2.Power cord plugged in?Grab the plug and wiggle to determine a good connection. 3.Power cord damage?Damaged rubber with wires showing through or the wire is being pinched can cause issues. Electrical tape is acceptable for covering damaged wires. 4.Aclicking sound could be something wrong with a relay. Check for any loose connections around the main control board on your oven. The click you hear is a relay losing power and switching back on. If the clock resets then something is causing power interruptions to the board. 5. 6.Even a bad relay door switch will hinder your oven from operating. If your oven has internal fuses, a wiring or component problem could have caused a fuse to blow. A blown fuse is an indication that a component has shorted or failed, and the problem will need to be corrected. Most ovens that use fuses will have an indication of the circuits that are affected by a particular fuse. If an oven fuse has blown, then you should inspect the oven element and the associated wiring to determine the cause before replacing the fuse.

Error code F-19 means "Lower oven is not heating". The manual suggests: "Press UPPER CLEAR/OFF or LOWER CLEAR/OFF to clear the display and stop beeping. Reprogram oven. If fault reoccurs, record fault number. Press UPPER CLEAR/OFF or LOWER CLEAR/OFF and contact a qualified service technician."

F9 code is a door latch error code. Either the latch motor or latch didn't get reset. Check the wiring to the latch motor and make sure everything is connected. Also try flipping the breaker and leaving it off for five or ten minutes, see if it might reset itself. If that doesn't work, you can have a latch motor gone bad, a harness issue, or possibly an electronic board that has shorted during the cleaning or operation programs.

had F19 error code on lower oven, F9 on upper. Pulled stove out and turned the regulator switch ON. Worked instantly. I thought I had the regulator on because the stovetop worked. The stovetop regulator is separate from the main regulator!!