Top 20 Kenmore 20722 Questions & Answers

Have you tried buying wash machine cleaner and running it through your washer sometimes this helps Merry Christmas

The drain sump is clogged with dirt and needs to be removed and cleaned thoroughly. Some tips from this video: drain cleaning

Remove the back panel, and see what's wrong

That could be the motor coupler. It could also be the transmission. It is pretty easy to fix. I recently worked on my brother's washer: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You will need to replace the "motor coupling". Here is a link to the part. Below is a video to show you how to replace it.

Go to the link below and enter your model number in the search window there. Sears has thousands of parts lists and line drawing illustrations that can aid in finding the reset button if present or any other part you may want to locate or replace.
Sears PartsDirect
BTW, it does not have to be a Kenmore or Sears-branded appliance. They have many others as well.

first thing to check would be to see if the lid switch went bad simply by clicking the switch and listening or takeing a wire and unplugging the actual switch and jumping with the wire from the first connection spot to the third this by passes the lid switch try to start the unit when this is achieved.if the unit still does not turn on here is a video of how to open the unit in the begining of this video http://www.youtube.com/user/RepairClinic?v=9K1KHEogf3c&feature=pyv&ad=5453897861&kw=whirlpool%20coupler&gclid=CNmDuYeGzagCFUff4AodWDxRhA
after you get the cabinet off as to the clicking noise if its during the spin cycle then you would follow through the entire video to replace the drive coupler this is step by step instruction in this video of how to check the drive coupler and how to replace if you have any further questions message me back and please remember to rank how this opinion has helped in your appliance situation also if you find the drive coupler is not broken message me back as well and I will diagnose your issue further Thanks again Rick
btw drive coupler goes for about 10-14 dollars and you can find it at this place click here http://www.allbrandonline.com/

Probably just the top part is not turning. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3iWO4bgRQ40&feature=related

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.20722990&pathTaken=partSearch

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

The first thing I'd do is try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using a short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part and only requires you to access the console and remove the cabinet.

Beyond that, I'd use the troubleshooting section of the Service Manual to test the timer. First though, I'd try it on a different cycle.

Hi,

Problems with a washing machine not spinning or not draining are often inter related..

If you are having a problem with your top load washer then check out this tip...

Washing Machine does not Pump or Spin
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4617986-washing_machine_not_pump_or_spin

If you are having problems with your front load washing machine then checkout this tip...

Front Load Washing machine not draining and or not spinning
http://www.fixya.com/support/r4784376-front_load_washing_machine_not_draining

heatman101

What you just described sounds like suds lock condition.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.########) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.


The parts site should have a replacement for the anchor.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

You will need to remove the exterior washer case in order to access it. The entire washer case comes off the frame on this model and is removed for access to the internal cabinet components. This is a lot easier than it sounds. The following link explains step-by-step how to access and replace a lid switch:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Hi,
Use a hose and siphon the water into a bucket...

Here is a tip that I wrote... it will give you some things to try...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3867591-washer_troubleshooting_water_not

heatman101

put a new timer in it the relay stops on the contacts are weak

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you cannot hear the motor trying to turn the pump, (but the washer will agitate) the problem points to the Timer, or the Lid Switch.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump

the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

If the problem isn't in the switch, and the Timer continues to move, the problem is likely in the transmission.

We had the same problem:

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams

in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2"

socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.


http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the

motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main

agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

If you take a one inch paint scraper and insert it about three inches from the edge of the washing machine top and push on a small spring clip. At the same time lift up on the washing machine top. You can now access the lid switch.There are two screws holding the switch in place located inside the lid.
You can take the switch into any appliance service store and they can help you get a new switch.

The problem is usually attributed to either a bad gearcase (transmission), or a broken motor coupling.

Since the washer still drained, this indicates the drive motor is still working as the drain pump is driven by the motor. The easiest (and least expensive) part to check first is the coupler. The coupler is located between the drive motor and gearcase and takes the place of a drive belt. This type of configuration is known as "direct-drive". The following link explains how to access and/or replace the motor coupling (if required):

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The motor coupling is comprised on three pieces (two plastic pieces with three tines, and a rubber bushing). Usually the tines snap off, the rubber bushing shears apart, or the center hole that the motor shaft is inserted rounds out and the coupling slips. Newer versions of the motor coupling have a steel grommet in the center to make it more resilient. The part number is included in the link I provided. A replacement can be purchased at appliancepartspros.com for about $11 or $12.

If you inspect the coupler and discover that is still intact, I'm aftraid you may have a gearcase that has gone bad. The gearcase price averages about $150-$160 if you wish to replace it yourself. If you wish to pursue the repair on your own, it is not difficult. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase

A replacement gearcase can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

I hope I've given you enough information to work with. If you have any questions, or need assistance with identifying part numbers, please post back with your model number (located on a nameplate along the wash tub rim) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope this helps you.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

One way to check if the Lid Switch is bad is to by-pass it.

See GURU JSROCK516 Description of how to remove cabinet and access the transmission. http://www.fixya.com/support/r699497-replacing_gearcase


Rather than removing the entire cabinet, just go through the process for removing the Console and up-plugging the lid switch.

Use a short piece of insulated wire and jumper the switch between the outer two contacts.

Lower the console and start the washer in the shortest cycle that you can.

After it fills part way, stop it and move the dial to the rinse cycle.

If it rinses and spins, the problem is in the switch which is basically held on by a couple of screws.

Of the washer still will not rinse or spin, the problem is likely in the timer.

Without knowing your model number, I couldn't tell you what a switch costs but it should be around $30.

If I'm correct in assuming that your model uses a switch with two screws, (check the Sears parts list for your washer under the Top and Cabinet category for the LID SWITCH) tightening the screws may solve your problem. The Diagram for the Top and Cabinet will show you where the screws connect.

Hello, Your problem is going to be with your lid switch, this is located normally either in the control panel or about half way down on the right side under the lid. Once you have located the switch trace the wires back to the wire harness in the control panel. Disconnect the lid switch from the wire harness and with an ohms meter check for condinuity on pin 1 & 3 (the 2 outside pins not the middle this is a ground) You should find you have no condinuity and should replace this switch. If you have any other questions or concerns please feel free to comment again. Good Luck!! Mike