20 Most Recent Kenmore 24872 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

check if the water pump is not blocked in any way preventing the water from emptying properly as the machine wont continue until the water sensor tell the machine that its ready for the next cycle the pump may not be doing its job preventing the next cycle to take place eric

Sounds like your front to back spring is pulling to tight, sometimes you need to replace it and sometimes you can take it off and stretch it. hope this helps

https://www.familyhandyman.com/.../washer...drain...drain/view-all

your water inlet valve is probably bad or stopped up with debris. some valves have screens that can be cleaned. you can swap the cold line and the hot line and check it that way. (you should get hot water when set on cold this way and cold for hot) be sure to turn the water off before swapping the hoses or you may get a little wet.

if the valve needs replacing you will need to remove the cabinet from the machine.

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

It's possible that the plastic bolt that holds the agitator on the drive tube is loose or damaged.

Look at the section on the Sears site for Agitator, basket and tub.

Remove the fabric softener unit, lift the top agitator cap (use a screwdriver) and you should see a plastic part in the center of the top agitator with a 1/2" square drive.

If it's loose, use a 1/2 inch extension for a socket set to tighten it.

Also see the following illustrated description of how to get to it.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=136&osCsid=0da65cea0e338fe930b1fde153a243f0

The most common cause of the problem you just described is a lid switch malfunction or lid strike (actuator) problem. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, stopping right after the wash cycle, not advancing to rinse or spin cycles, and a wash tub that will not drain.

The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike" or "Actuator") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3557193-replacing_a_lid_switch

On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because it does NOT have a lid strike (actuator) and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This type of switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator rod by bending it slightly.

NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.


Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com


The average price of a replacement lid switch for this model washer is about $15 - $20 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices will vary between sites so shop and compare. If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back and let me know. This is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.

If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20.

Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.

this usually is a problem with the fill valves.Disconnect the hose and make sure there is no sediment build up restricting the valves

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.26952690

and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If you lift the lid, put it down again and the washer begins to spin, the problem is likely in the transmission "Neutral Drain Assembly".

Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Apparently, by opening and closing the lid, torque from the motor starting throws the cams into the right gears so that the washer will spin.

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service Manual for these washers to see how the Neutral Drain Assembly works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf


Ours had the same problem, no spin unless the lid was raised and lowered or we shut off and re-started the cycle.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

See the following

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 14 - 15Oz of oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

As an aside, fixing ours cost less than $30 including 80-90 weight gear oil vs. $170 for a new transmission.

It is a messy job and may seem daunting but it's not that hard and much less expensive than having a repair person come out and recommend a $170 transmission.

Make sure that the lid switch is making contact. Push a small screwdriver gently into the hole at the lid switch and listen to hear if it clicks. You can also try this in the spin cycle to see if it spins. If the switch is operating OK you should adjust or replace the plastic lever on the door that pushes the switch.

it sounds like you spider as broke you will need a new drum as they are not bolted on

Motors hum, and your right, it could be no worse than normal.

I would be suspect that there is a gear stripped in the gearcase, since this is a direct drive washing machine.

Reassemble the motor back onto the washer. Run it through a cycle manually (rotate the timer by hand) until the motor turns, then look to see if it's turning. If it is, or even more so, if it pumps water out of the tub, then it is probably the stripped out gearcase.

Reply with you findings and more advice.

defective transmisson..onthejob

this would suggest that the compressor has got no oil in it.there is a possiblity that the compressor can be changed.but a what cost is generally dependant on the size of the appliance.roughly it will cost in the reigion of about $500.

Do you hear a distinctive "click" when you close the lid? If you don't, the lid switch is probably bad. You can by-pass the switch by lifting the console and unplugging the switch connector. If you jumper across the black and white wires in the connector plug, this could prove whether or not the switch is defective. If you jumper the switch, or if the lid switch proves good, and you still have no activity from the drive motor, I would check the start capacitor, and/or connections to the motor before I would suspect a timer problem (still a possibility, though). You should also check your line voltage coming in just to make sure you're getting power to the unit (not trying to insult your intelligence). There should be a wiring diagram located under the console to aid in troubleshooting. When taking readings on 120 VAC connect one lead to your neutral and take readings with the other lead. This way you have one hand free, and the readings will be more accurate. Ground is not always reliable. Let me know what you find and if I can be of more assistance.

the leak could be coming from anywhere in the washer it just leaks out from the lowest point of the washer i would suggest placing a putty knife under the top on the right and left side and pushing the tabs in to pop off the front panel to see where the leak is coming from

There is a plastic coupler piece that goes bad under the agitator. The agitator pulls straight off with a little oooompf. The coupler is bolted to transmission shaft sometimes i have to use a puller to remove coupler as its seized to trans shaft PLEASE rate my help as solved as it darn good

Your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or a broken pump belt. To check the pulley you should remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate its pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely(frozen or stiff) it should be replaced. In case of a broken pump's belt or belt looks quite worn, replace it. In any case,check the pump's pulley before you replacing the belt. Good luck !

I would check the water level switch. If the switch will not activate the washer will over flow with water and not start the wash cycle

Does your washer fill , but not agitate or spin? If this is the case, the fine graphite looking dust you are seeing is actually part of the rubber bushing to your motor coupling. The motor coupler is located between the transmission and drive motor under the wash tub. It is quite common for the coupler to go bad, especially if the machine gets used a lot. The part costs about $10 to purchase and is fairly simple to replace. Let me know if your symptoms match what I'm describing here.

look for the counterweight system and if pulley wheels exist then look for wire cables that have either run off the pulleys or have broken. if no pulley wheels, then system is sliding weight that may need lube