20 Most Recent Kenmore 4292x Front Load Washer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Hi,

When my washer did that, I found that the shocks that hold the tub were bad...

Check out this tip I wrote about the noise and vibration that front load washers can make..

Washer Problems Washer noise when spinning

heatman101

"Fdl" is a door latch error code. This is an indication of either a defective door latch, door catch, defective Central Control Unit (CCU), or an interconnecting cable problem between the two. The following link explains how to troubleshoot this problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4490349-fdl_error_code


I have included parts resources, and the steps required to replace any defective parts. Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. the first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.
The error codes are not listed in the owner's manual. For a full explanation of all the error codes, each one of these appliances comes with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front fett of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.


Read through the information provided and post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER if you have questions. I hope you find this information helpful.

If your Whirlpool FRONT LOADER is leaking, the following link can give you some guidance on how to inspect the washer to determine where the source of the leak may be coming from:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576656-washer_leak__front_loader


Most commonly, the source of the leak comes from the door bellow (gray rubber seal). They do wear out with age and can develop small rips and tears. A routine inspection of the perimeter of the door seal can determine if you have any holes. If the seal is damaged, it must be replaced. The following link explains how:


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574186-installing_a_door_bellow_on_a_front_load


The manufacturer recommends that you leave the washer door open between washes to prevent the seal from becoming permanently stretched. Once the seal stays compressed constantly it can stretch and not seal properly. In addition, leaving the door open helpd let the wash tub air out and prevent mold, mildew and musty odors.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

If you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Hi, "F11" is a Serial Communications error between the Central Control Unit (CCU) and Motor Control Unit (MCU).

The CCU is the main computer for the washer and is located directly behind the wash tub. The MCU is the Drive Motor Control board and is located in the rear of the washer adjacent to the Drive Motor on the left-hand side (facing from the rear with the back panel removed). The wiring harness can also cause the error, but it is not as common a problem.

Whirlpool is the manufacturer of both model washers and recommends the following troubleshooting advice. Remove the top panel of the washer by removing the three screws holding it in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, the panel slides back, then off. Remove the rear panel of the washer for access to the drive motor and MCU.

Now check the following:
- Check the wire harness connections between the CCU, the MCU and Drive Motor. Make sure all connections are attached and making good contact. Check for any broken wires or connector pins.
- Check the Drive Motor to see if it free spins and that the belt is still attached and not slipping. If the motor is seized, replace it. If the belt is broken or worn, replace it as well.
- Check the MCU. Connector 1 is the Serial Communications Link between the MCU and CCU. Connector 2 is the connector to the drive motor. Resistance checks across pins 1, 2, & 3 are the motor windings. Connector 3 is the power supply - 120VAC should be read across pins 1 and 2 with the door in the locked position. NOTE: The connectors are read 1, 2, and 3 from the bottom to the top with the MCU installed.
- Check the CCU. Verify connectors 7 and 11 are properly installed. Facing from the front of the washer, connector 7 is the 4th connector from the RIGHT along the front. This is MCU Power. Connector 11 is the Serial Communications link from the CCU to the MCU and is located along the left hand side of the CCU (the connectors are numbered 11 through 14 back to front).
- Check the Drive Motor. Remove the connector and perform resistance checks on the motor connector pins. Readings across pins 1 to 2, 2 to 3 and 1 to 3 should read 6 ohms.
In most cases this is an indication of a failed CCU. This is an easy repair that the average do-it-yourselfer can accomplish on their own. If the washer is still under a warranty, parts and labor would be covered. With no warranty, a replacement parts will vary in price depending on where you get them. There are several good websites available that you can order parts on line and have shipped directly to you.

NOTE: Remove all the connectors from the CCU ONE AT A TIME and reconnect to see if the error code goes away BEFORE you decide to purchase a new one. It is not common, but sometimes a flaky connection can generate error codes.

Take care

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Please check the lid switch. If it is defective, washer can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washer to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.

Some machines have a special lid-switch fuse near the lid switch, inside the control panel. If this fuse blows, the unit won't fill with water until you replace the fuse.

If still the issue persists, then put the controls into diagnostic mode. Here is the procedure which is also explained on a tech sheet inside the control panel---

• Turn power off at the console
• Press and hold the wash temperature down then press the power button. The machine should give two short beeps.
• The different levels of information can be extracted by using the spin speed up or the spin speed down buttons.

If the Washer won’t enter diagnostic mode, then the control board is fried. Usually, when the control board fails, one of the line voltage components fried and took out the control board as well. Be sure to test the peripheral components before replacing the control board.

Please do accept the solution if the issue is resolved or else revert for further assistance.


Thanks

Rylee

Hello there
This is telling you that the door latch assy may be bad
first remove the bottom panel. you will have to use a star type driver to get it off than reach up and manually release the door this is a 65 dollar part and your local appliance repair center should have oit or go to applianceparts pros.com and they have them their ok
Hope this very helpful for you
Best regards Michael

I would like to know the same thing. How high should the water level be in an HE5t? The serviceman didn't seem to know.

If you are attempting to replace the door bellow on a Kenmore Elite front loader, the following link explains step-by-step how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385210-replacing_door_bellow_kenmore_elite

Read through the link provided and let me know if you have any questions.

NOTE: There is another method you may try as well. Although I do not prefer this next method because these washing machines are very heavy, an alternative way of replacing the door bellow is to remove the lower toe panel and tilt the washer back at a 45 degree angle instead of removing the washer front panel. If you use this method, make sure it rests against the wall and will not tip forward. This allows the wash tub to drop down and away from the front panel and gives you access to the the rear bellow clamp through the bottom. This can save you some time. Thanks to user DGBG for the helpful tip!

If you would like some helpful exploded view diagrams of your washer that you can reference, you can use any of these web sites:

searspartsdirect.com
appliancepartspros.com
pcappliancerepair.com

Just use your model number to begin your search criteria.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.

NOTE: These door seals do wear out and require replacement from time to time. However, overloading the washer to the point where items get caught in the door area can contribute to premature wear and tear.

TUB BOOT AROUND DOOR IS LEAKING

Hopefully you have resolved your problem by now, but in case not, have you tried unplugging the washer for a few minutes and plugging it back in? This should reset the control board. If that doesn't work, its probably a problem with the control board.

FO2 is the code for long drain. Your filter on your pump is probably clogged with lint and stuff. You have to remove the bottom front panel, 3 screws. The panel will drop and come off. The filter cover is right in front. Get yourself a bunch of towels and unscrew the filter cover and twist the filter out. Clean out all the stuff and put it back in.
1. Press the Chime and Delay Start pads at the same time for
three seconds.
2. The Child Lock light will illuminate.
3. To unlock, press the Chime and Delay Start pads at the same time for three seconds. The Child Lock light will go out.
If above 3 dont work try 'end of cycle' button for 3 seconds.

Mine is doing the same thing, and a new pump was put on it last month.

how about the line from pump to bottom of tank?not excess suds?might be bad control bd..f code is generated when control bd senses incorrect current draw by drain motor ..could be glitch in readings or a misread

The screws are a #20 torx bit. Once you take those out, remove the panel. Behind it is a white plastic pump. I usually remove the torx screw in it too so it can come out further and I can get a bucket under it. As you unscrew the front of it counter clock wise, drain out the water SLOWLY. Then clean debris from the trap.

When the three screws are out of the bottom, you should be able to pull the front panel down (towards the floor) and then out from the bottom. Unscrew the big white cap on the drain housing. Be prepped for the water. Most of the time the problem is due to **** in there.

This is usually an indication of a defective water inlet valve (also known as a fill valve or mixing valve). This is a fairly simple repair that you can perform yourself. If you can post back with your complete model number (located around the door opening), I can track down a part number for you.

Marcilulu,

I hate to refer you to (yet another) website, but I think you will find what you need here. Go to managemyhome.com and register. This is a FREE service. Once registered, go to the "Products and Manuals" heading under the "Home" drop down menu. Follow the prompts on the next page and your owner's manual is located there in a downloadable .pdf format. I hope this resolves your problem.

Jeff

PS I personally own one these machines. If you do experience any problems, please keep me in mind. You can go to my profile and use the "Ask Me" feature for a quicker repsonse to your questions.