20 Most Recent Kenmore 24422 Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

check the coupling,unplug it,take off the end caps on the top console,remove the two phillips screws that are under the clips,flip the console back to the wall,unplug the lid switch and with a screw driver pop the two clips,stick it into the hole and push to the back wall and the clips will pop out,tilt the back of tub up and and forwards to remove frame,on bottom pop off the two pump clips and pull the pump off,remove the two screws that hold the motor clips on and pop off the two clips,slide the motor out,now you can see the coupling,if any of the arms are broke off or the rubber is damaged replace it,if that looks good sounds like you have a bad transmission,touch the bottom of tranny. if any oil is there the tranny. is blown

You may have a weak clutch. If you can stop the washer during spin by hand, that's what it is.

First, see the Sears Parts Site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?pop=true&modelNumber=110.24422300

Newer model Whirlpool / Kenmore washers use a Lid Switch as a safety device. Unless the switch senses that the lid on the washer is closed, the washer will neither agitate nor spin.

Older models only used the switch during the spin cycle.

Try to bypass the Lid Switch by removing the Console and jumping the two outermost pins on the switch.

Following is a description of how to release the console for access to the pins.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

This is a Whirlpool PDF on how these washers operate. It has a diagram on jumping the switch as well as a detailed section on how the transmission works.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

It also has a troubleshooting guide.

To bypass the switch, you only have to disconnect the power to the washer, tilt the console back, unplug the switch and using an short piece of insulated wire, jump the two outermost contacts on the connector coming from the console and plug the washer back in.

Following is a description of how to gain access to the console and how to remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=913ba652cd504fb162f87d892bcb427b

With the jumper in place, try to re-start the washer.

If it works, the Lid Switch is a relatively inexpensive part.

Hello,
This tip i wrote will show ya exactly how to take that style washer apart http://www.fixya.com/support/r10355046-apart_whirlpool_made_washer

GENE

Hello,

Having replaced the valve i would suspect the cold water for what ever reason is not getting to the valve from the faucet..if you have not already done so remove cold water hose and see how much water is coming from it when its not connected to the washer. If your using the "aqua flow-flood stop" hoses thats going to be the problem..the internal stopper in the hose has failed and hardly no water coming through the hose.

GENE

Hello, welcome to FixYa.

Based on your post I understand you have a problem with a Kenmore washer, and that you're wondering how to remove the back or how to gain access to check

First of all, do not remove the back. Most leaks occur at the pump, here you'll find a link on how to access the pump to allow you to look for the leak as well as change the pump if need be.

http://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Drain-Pump/3363394/3296

If you want to give that a try and post a reply to me I'll certainly be glad to assist you further in any manner I can.

Thank you for visiting FixYa for your washer inquiry. Please take a moment to rate my assistance both here and on my tip link and leave a brief testimony.

Regards,

Macmarkus :)

the pressure switch underneath the control panel is bad it is a pressure switch and will have a plastic hose connected to it along with some wires

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

As the lid switch and timer has already been replaced so the problem seems to be with drain pump assembly, you can first clean it, after this if the problem returns then the drain pump needs replacement and before replacing it the motor needs to tested. You can also view this video for cleaning the drain pump:

Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

This assumes that you have a basic Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive, neutral drain (it doesn't spin until the pump removes most of the water) machine.

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

Enter your model number (###.#######) and you'll see a list of major sub-components with diagrams and parts.

Three possibilities: Ranging from easy to relatively messy but inexpensive.

Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.

It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.

Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.

The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.

The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.

If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.

See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.

Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.

Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.

Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.

Replace the motor mounting plate.

Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.

Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.

Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.


If the motor coupler is OK, the problem could be the clutch:

Sears has a replacement clutch band kit.

See the following for how to pull the pump, motor and transmission.

You DON'T HAVE TO PULL THE AGITATORS OR TUB.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137&osCsid=65fc1c013d6130868b14c8bb4baf7bfd

Also see the Whirlpool / kenmore service manual for these washers.

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/f7e2147fa98b28cf85257122007475cb/$FILE/L-55.pdf

Both the Motor coupler (available from most appliance parts stores) and the clutch band kit are relatively inexpensive.

See the Following Whirlpool parts list for alternatives to the Sears part numbers.

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

It's also possible that the Neutral Drain Assembly in the transmission is broken:


The Kenmore / Whirlpool top load uses a reversing motor to initiate the pump for draining and the transmission to spin.

If it will drain but won't spin the problem is likely in the transmission. "Neutral Drain Assembly".

See the Whirlpool / Kenmore Service manual for top load direct drive washers.

WHIRLPOOL TRANSMISSION DESCRIPTION AND SPRINGS

https://secured.whirlpool.com/Service/SrvTechAdm.nsf/2cd44500d572193285256a45004fd9d6/2550f737b3129b0c85256b0600504738/$FILE/787772%20%234.pdf


Those cams/gears etc. in that assembly keep the washer from spinning until all of the water is pumped out and then go into spin mode.

Ours had a similar problem.

After looking at the transmission parts list (available on a number of sites) and on the Whirlpool site (Whirlpool makes Kenmore) we noticed that the one of the cams in the neutral assembly which is supposed to have a small spring, didn't on ours when we tore the transmission apart again

http://shared.whirlpoolcorp.com/assets/pdfs/literature/Repair%20Part%20List%20-%20W10114743.pdf

Found the part number for a kit (Whirlpool part number 388253 Neutral Assembly) for $15.00 and replaced the cams and gears.

In order to get the transmission out, you have to remove the cabinet, the fabric dispenser and both agitators. The top agitator uses a plastic 1/2" drive bolt (a 1/2" socket extension works well).

You don't have to remove the drum.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=137

Lay the machine down (after disconnecting power and hoses, remove the pump (two clips), the motor (two screws hold two clips on the motor), lift and set the motor aside.

Remove two 1/2 inch bolts for the motor mounting plate and three 1/2 inch bolts for the transmission.

Pull the transmission, remove the clutch (there is a spring clip that holds the clutch on the main agitator shaft), remove the 8 screws carefully the transmission holds 15Oz of 80-90 weight gear oil, remove the clip holding the main spin gear on and check the plastic cams.

If the cam that should have a spring doesn't, or the others look damaged, or the main spin gear is damaged the washer won't go into spin mode.

If that's the problem, install a Neutral drain kit, put everything back together carefully and the problem may be solved.

All of the above sound more difficult than they really are. If you're comfortable with a socket set, pliers/vice grips and willing to get a bit dirty (oil) you can save some considerable money.

It appears your timer/main controller has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question!!!

First, see the Sears parts site for your washer:

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/getModel!retrieve.pd?modelNumber=110.24422300&pathTaken=partSearch

It has diagrams of all major components and their relationships.

Next, see the following for how to release the console and remove the cabinet if necessary.

http://www.american-appliance.com/catalog/newsdesk_info.php?newsPath=16&newsdesk_id=131&osCsid=affe8ede600431516767e8e3f033eb7a

Basically, if you snap off the end caps, you should see a phillips head screw on each end of the console.

Remove the screw, pull the console to the front and up.

hi there
i read your report. Yes your valve is bad you need to replace it. Your going the right way with this. if you got anymore question feel free to ask us and we will help you. TY for writing to fix ya.

Best Regards Richard

I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you
go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on both washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

The washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, repairclinic.com or appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All three sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all three for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.

There are a couple of things that can cause of the water to continue to fill. A defective water inlet valve that fails to shut off can cause the problem, but you were able to get the water to stop when you moved the timer selector knob. If the water inlet was leaking by, it would continue to run no matter what position the timer was in.

The next item would be a pressure switch malfunction. You were correct to assume this as a possible problem. The switch is located in the operator console behind the load level selector knob. Just remove the back panel of the console to access. Verify that the clear plastic air hose is still connected to the switch. The air hose is what detects the changing tub pressure from the air dome and shuts off the water at the appropriate level. If this air hose comes loose, the pressure switch never detects the change in tub pressure and the water continues to run. Sometimes to the point of overflowing. Over time the hose can stretch and become loose. The vibration of the washer eventually will cause the hose to fall off. If this is the case, re-attach the hose and place a small zip tie around it at the point where it connects to the pressure switch. Make the zip tie snug, but not excessively tight. This will keep enough resistance on the hose to keep it from sliding off again.

If the air hose is correctly installed, inspect the entire length of it to make sure there are no rips or tears. The hose cannot have any holes in it, or the air pressure leaks out. In addition, double check the electrical connections ot the switch by checking the contacts to ensure they are clean. If none of these preliminary steps correct the problem, you may have a defective switch that requires replacment. Hopefully you won't require any additional parts to fix your problem.

If you have any questions, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

NOTE: When working inside the console, please UNPLUG the washer for your own safety.

It won't drain If your washer won't drain, check these:

It spins, but doesn't pump 
It doesn't spin or pump
It pumps, but the water returns
It spins, but doesn't pump If your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump and pull the item out.

To remove the sock from the outer tub port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub. Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing through the port. 

Sometimes you can't remove the stuck clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified appliance repair technician to do the job.

If the drain line isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you need to replace the pump.

It doesn't spin or pump If your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. 

It pumps, but the water returns If the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:

• If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.



• If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.

The symptoms you describe are typical of a broken motor coupling. The coupling is located between the drive motor and gearcase (transmission). The following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385250-replacing_motor_coupling_kenmore_top

The part number, along with where you can order one are also provided in the link. It is common for motor couplings to wear out and they aren't very expensive (less than $20). The coupler or bushing usually wears out and breaks, or the center hole of the coupler rounds out and begins to slip on the motor and gearcase shafts. The part number I provided is for a new improved coupler that is more durable than the original. If you do not wish to order online, take the part number provided and go to your nearest appliance parts retailer. This is a common part that they will carry. I hope you find this information helpful. If I'm wrong with my assessment, or if you require additional assistance, please let me know.

Check out the link for Kenmore Parts suppliers. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+series+200+triple+action+agitator+parts ..