Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Sounds like you are overloading the amp. Please check speakers impedance.
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Disconnect all speaker connections and rca cables. Leave power, ground and remote wires intact. Try turning on again. If you still have a protection light your amp is faulty. Hopefully you have warranty .
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Either blown subs, or bad amp.. Disconnect the subs, and try turning the amp on, if the amp is still in protect then your amp is bad, if the protect light goes off, then your subs are bad, or possibly wired at to low of an impedance, but I don't think that will trigger the protect on an Audiobahn amp.
you can go to crutchfield.com and they will show you step by step but all you need is a long enough power wire from your battery but make sure you have a inline fuse about 12" off the battery. run a remote wire off of your head unit to the back of car, make sure you have a good ground bout 3' wire that's about it then run your wires for your speakers
you can use your rear speakers get a wire to run from the speaker to the high input in the amplifier the then hook up the power to the am and find a good ground then need a a wire that ges power only when the car is turned on so find the accessory wire in the back of te stereo it is allways yelow cut in to it and stick your amps remote then lower all of your bass and treble then slowwly in crease it to match you rear speakers with your front and your subs
You have a Direct Short in the System Between the Head Unit and the Amp. Check the Ground on the Amp and then Check all the Wires behind the Stereo and the Common Ground There. You could even have a Spot in the New RCA Cables that is Touching Metal Somewhere. Please Rate My Response! Thanks!
The ACAP501Q has 2 sets of of RCA jacks. The first set is input and 2nd preamp outputs. The jacks are factory covered with plastic protectors. Just pull the protectors off and plug in the cables.
Yes, and would imply that the amp is powered up all the time.
You should correctly wire your system by
1.Connecting the constant 12vdc input wire to a constant 12vdc source to power the in-dash head units memory.
2.Connecting the switched 12vdc input wire to a switched 12vdc source to power the head units primary functions.
3.Connecting the remote output wire (typically a blue wire) from the in-dash head unit to the correct terminal on the amp, so the amp will only power up when the head unit is on.
4 Remember to run the signal (speaker) wires in a chase separated from the amps power wires, so as to avoid a buzzing noise in the speakers.
5. Always use an in-line fuse on the amp and the head units main power wires.
Note: A properly powered amp will produce a better sound quality then if it were under powered, so be sure to use the proper wire gauge as your amps power supply.
You should never disconnect the ground from the amp when it has B+ and remote voltage applied. This will cause damage to the head unit ith some amplifiers.
Does the protection light come on with the ground wire connected?
The amplifier is only stable to 2 ohms.
Assuming the cubs are dual 4 ohm voicecoils - a 2 ohm load with 2 subs is not possible.
You can only wire up 1 dual 4 ohm voicecoil sub (both positives to amp... and both negatives to amp) to get a 2 ohm mono load.
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