20 Most Recent Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load Washer - Page 5 Questions & Answers

I don't just got done checking and sure enough it was filled with socks, rocks, and small debris. I don't know yet if it fixed it but will know in a few hours. In any case, these items could not have been good. First, try to make sure all water is out. Run on spin cycle for 10 minutes, be prepared for about 4 to 6 cups of water coming out.

the fix: You should always unplug for safety!
There are three screws at the very bottom of washer. You will need and extension and a star tip. They are on good and tight so I used a cordless drill and extension. I'm sorry I can't tell you which star tip I used. I bought a little security kit from harbor freight that has all these tips and one worked. Their is a white canister that has one hose in and another hose out. Just unscrew slowley and clean if dirty. You might be as surprised as I was if you find any junk.

Good Luck

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Aug 26, 2015

go 2 repair clinic on line, same codes for whirlpool duet repair help then error code tab

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Jun 25, 2015


Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Jun 21, 2015

2 Beeps/E20--Error: Water dosen't drain. Cause: Drain is kinked or household clog. Correct.

Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Jun 12, 2015

you must reduce water on faucet

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Apr 30, 2015

"F22" is a door latch error code. The following link explains many causes of the error and possible recommendations to correct the problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r1976388-f22_error_code_whirlpool_duet_kenmore For an explanation of all the error codes, each one of these washers comes with a technical data sheet inside.

To access, you will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door. The access screws are located under the bottom front edge of the panel. You may have to prop the two front feet of the washer up for better access ( a 2x4 works well for this). With the screws removed, the panel should drop down, then come off. If the tech sheet isn't directly behind the panel, it will be affixed to one of the interior cabinet walls.

The tech sheet lists all error code definitions, troubleshooting data, diagnostics procedures and wiring diagrams. I mention the tech sheet because you may need it to troubleshoot this error code.

Replacement parts (if required) can be purchased at any of the following websites:


Prices vary between sites, so shop and compare. The first three sites listed also have helpful exploded view parts illustrations to assist you with locating and properly identifying the parts you may need.

Read through the information provided and if you have questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Apr 27, 2015


F05 Error Code on Whirlpool Duet & Kenmore Elite Front Loader Washing Machines

This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the “F05” Error Code.

"F05" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor. To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a block of wood under each front foot of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:

Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms

Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.

Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.

I hope this information if found to be helpful. If you have questions, or need assistance locating parts, please click on the following link and use the “ASK ME” feature for a quicker response.


on Apr 15, 2015 | Kenmore Elite 45986 Front Load...

You don't. The motor magnetic fields are set up for 60hz.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Apr 14, 2015

Buy it in the US or Canada online and pay for shipping

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Apr 14, 2015

check the pump for a blockage ...........


Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Apr 01, 2015

The problem with the new washing machines, is that they dump 20-22 gallons of water in 4-5 seconds. This amount is far more than the garden hose test will submit the drain to. Here are a number of solutions, I hope that one of these will help you.

#1 As mentioned above, you can restrict the flow of the drain pipe. I recommend a 3/4" x 6" brass nipple, or a 1/2" x 6" brass nipple, depending on your specific situation. The brass nipple will not corrode like a galvanized nipple.

#2 There is also a rubber cap that you attach to the drain pipe that fits around the drain hose tightly.

#3 Some situations might require that you have to raise your drain pipe. It is recommended that it be at least 36". This allows for gravity to assist the drain.

#4 Some situations will require that the drain pipe be increase in diameter. Older plumbing applications were installed using 1 1/2" piping. With the newer washing machine discharge volume, the 1 1/2" pipes will not support the discharge. Your drain line will need to be changed to 2". This option will be one of the more costly fixes, depending on the amount of line that needs to be changed.

#5 Some plumbing installations installed without a p-trap will need to be changed. The p-trap keeps sewer gas from coming back into the house. It also allows for a smooth transition into the drain line. Any restrictions in the drain line (i.e. ells, tees,) will cause the soap in the gray water to foam up which will cause the drain line to slowly back up.

I hope these solutinons help.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 30, 2015

I would suspect the drive belt, drum bearings or support spider and shaft. It is common for the drum support spider to corrode and fracture which usually leads to bearing failure, this causes the belt to slip and therefore not spin out all the water. If you open the door and grab the drum ,try lifting up and down it should have little to no play . If I am correct they are usually not worth fixing unless under warranty or you are in love with the machine.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 27, 2015

If the machine has a "clean washer" setting, run that with 2/3 cup bleach only (no soap). If it doesn't have a specific setting to clean the machine, run a small load with hot water and use 2/3 cup bleach, no soap.

If you're asking how to avoid the problem altogether, you'd most likely need to install a water softener, or water filter.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 19, 2015

I don't know about your problem specifically, but my washer wouldn't click on. After I set the cycle and pushed start, it just clicked but not on. It turns out that the mother board wires have a loose connect at that particular spot. The service man, not a Sears since they couldn't make it there for a month, unplugged the machine, opened the lid (screws on the top back) and pulled out and re plugged some wires. When he tried to start it again, it worked perfectly. Occasionally it will do the same thing, so I UNPLUG the machine, take the back off and wiggle the wires (I know which ones they are by now), put the lid back on, plug in, and wala, she works.
Like I said, this doesn't address your problem specifically, but it seems the wires in the mother board tend to rattle loose. I hope this is an easy fix for you!! I was relieved. Sears may have sold me a new mother board at the tune of $??? That service call was a year ago and, although it is sometimes annoying, I haven't had to purchase any parts.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 14, 2015

I also got the SUDS error followed by F35 many times. I replaced the analog water level switch, Wirlpool part number W10156252, and the problem went away. The part is located against the back right corner of the top of the washer after removing the top cover. The part cost $62.99 + $12.95 express shipping from ApplianceZone.net. I have the Kenmore HE3t Steam Washer, model number 110.46752 700 front loader. I was able to run about 6 loads of laundry by unplugging the washer, waiting about 5 minutes, the re-plugging and re-starting the washer. Thereafter, the problem became permanent. I always used HE detergent. The washer was purchased new in December 2007, and the I made the repair in September 2009. I spent about $1300 for the Kenmore H3t Steam Washer, and I am disappointed that it required repair after less than 2 years. My mothers old Maytag washer lasted more than 15 years, and was not susceptible to soap SUDS.

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 12, 2015


If you are getting an F2 error message or a SUD error message, and are observing some water in the tub that is not draining at end of cycle, and your washi cycle is taking a lot longer that normal to complete,then here is what to do.

This solution is easy, and will take no more that 15 minutes, from start to finish, and most of that time is in the --prep-- (getting tools, towels, etc.). This WILL save you a expensive service call.

There are 3 small 9/32 hex head screws that hold the front panel on. The front panel I'm speaking of is --below-- the washer window.
These screws can be found::

a. if you have the optional washer storage drawer unit,, they can be found by opening the drawer, and observing the 3 screws (left, middle, and right side, that hold the front panel on.
b. if you DONT have the optional drawer assembly, then they are found on the front, bottom, of the washer, again holding the front panel on the washer.

1. unscrew the 3 hex head screws (9/32 socket or nut driver size)
2. lower/remove the front panel, and set it asisde on some towels, so as not to scratch the front panel.
3. get something now to soak up at least a gallon of water that WILL empty onto the floor.
4. observe large WHITE drain cap, at front center of washer.
5. unscew white drain cap --WARNING-- lots of water WILL drain out when you loosen the white cap. Once all the water is out, remove and take out the filter trap.
6. clean out the front and bottom of the filter trap. I'm sure lint, and gosh knows what else have cloged some of the holes
7. wipe out the inside of the housing for the filter trap (observe lots of -gunk- there too).
8 put back in filter trap, tighten white cap, and put front panel on washer with same 9/32 screws you took off earlier.

Now I ran a test --express wash-- cycle, just to be sure all was OK,, and it was.

Now go get your wife and have her complete that laundry that was waiting for the washer to get repaired. OK sorry,, maybe you should just do the laundry your self, and get some points later.

Hope this step by step was helpful... Have a great day.

Washer Guy in Kansas City, MHE

Kenmore Elite... | Answered on Mar 09, 2015

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