20 Most Recent Kenmore 62802 Electric Dryer - Page 2 Questions & Answers

Check the vent pipe going to the outside of the house, including the vent louver, to make sure the pipe is not partially or fully clogged with lint.

Your symptoms are a classic description of reduced or no airflow from the dryer.

Hi carreon juli...
Try unplugging the machine for about 10 mins...then plug it back in...that should clear the computer.
Please take time to rate me

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101\]
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Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

dryer will not start

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101';

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Break it down and clean it.




More here If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Did you check the Thermal Cut-Out? Not all heat related problems are caused by a bad heating element or thermostats.

If the dryer is running, but does NOT heat, the following two links explain how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts (if required) can be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify the parts you need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.

NOTE: In many cases the problem is not the heating element. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.

Read through the information I provided and, if you have any questions, please post back and let me know. I hope you find this information is helpful.

If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Repairclinic.com has a repair manual that you can purchase that will also help repair any Whirlpool manufactured gas or electric dryer. The part number is 1159257.

If you are having dryer problems and you cannot even get the thing to start, then you might want to start going through this check list of possibilities. There are a number of things that can cause your dryer to not run.

A couple of the most common problems are the thermal fuse has blown or the door switch is not operating properly. On many dryers if the thermal fuse blows, the dryer will not run at all. This fuse can be checked with an ohm meter. It should show continuity if it is okay. If there is no continuity then you need to replace it and also find out what else failed. This is a safety device that usually blows because something else allowed the dryer to get too hot. It is usually located in the back of the dryer, on the blower housing. Some are oval in shape and others are rectangular, usually with two wires attached.

A defective door switch or a bent door switch lever can also cause you to have problems. If the lever is broken or bent it will not activate the switch. If the switch is broken, this also will not allow the dryer to be started.

The push (or turn) to start switch can go bad, but is unlikely. To check this, hold it in or turn it and then check to make sure you have continuity with an ohm meter.

If the dryer starts and then stops when the switch is released check the control board or the ?even heat? control on some model dryers. Some dryers have a belt break switch that can fail or your belt may be way loose or broken.

Check for burn marks or burnt wires at the terminal block on your dryer, poor connections can cause all kinds of problems. Also poor connections can cause fires.

A bad power cord also falls into this same category.

Of course, always check that you have the proper voltage to the outlet that you are plugging into.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4312805-dryer_maintenance

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866744-dryer_not_working_dryer_not_drying

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3907570-buy_appliance_parts_online

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3866345-dryer_troubleshooting_electric_dryer_won

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4496386-dryer_cord_wiring_dryer_3_wire_or_4_wire

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4416566-dryer_repair_squeaks_grinding_clicking

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4422207-dryer_repair_dryer_not_turning

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4460438-dryer_repair_dryer_will_not_start

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4398592-gas_dryer_not_working_gas_dryer_not

Hi

I believe that everything else is fine rather it is the thermostat that is located inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct that is bad and should be replaced. If you want you can test this thermostat for continuity and if bad replace it as it cannot be reset. If it is fine then check the coils as the igniter and burner seem to be working fine...Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

the cutting off is a restricted vent, you will need to disconnect the vent and run a load of clothes, then clear the vent of the restriction. the humming is the motor, either the belt is off/broken or the motor is stuck, you will need to take it apart and see what the problem is, I am not sure if the Kenmore has a belt brake trip on the motor or not, if it does it will have to little buttons where it plugs into the motor one button trips it the other resets it. Hope this helps Tim

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

If you have already tried cleaning the vent then the problem is with the Thermal fuse. When the thermal fuse goes bad it cannot be reset and replacing it is recommended repair.It is located on the blower wheel housing inside the rear panel to the exhaust duct. You can test the fuse for continuity before replacing, if the fuse is fine then please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/5755/KENMORE-Residential-Dryer-L0305403

Are you sure the problem is the moisture sensor? There are many causes that can affect the drying ability of a dryer. If your ELECTRIC dryer is still running, but does NOT produce heat, the following two links can give you advice on how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3574266-thorough_dryer_advice


IMPORTANT: Your problem may or may not be related to a heating element problem as there are numerous factors that can cause a dryer not to heat. The heating element has protection devices that are designed to regulate the heat and internal temperatures. If the dryer overheats the Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) typically will blow BEFORE the heating element. The replacement kit is much cheaper than purchasing a new heating element that may or may not be the problem.


Begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

On a Whirlpool Duet or Kenmore Elite model, the heating circuits are located inside the dryer under the dryer drum on the right hand side. You will need to remove the lower toe panel under the door to access. The toe panel comes off by locating and removing the screws under the bottom front edge of the panel. The Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals (all the way towards the back of the dryer cabinet). The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.


Replacement parts (if required) may be found at the following websites:

searspartsdirect.com
pcappliancerepair.com
appliancepartspros.com
repairclinic.com

The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare. The first three websites I listed have helpful exploded view parts diagrams that can help you locate and properly identify any parts you may need. The heating components are usually listed under the "Bulkhead" section.


If you have any questions, please post back with your complete MODEL NUMBER and let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.


NOTE: If your model number is not listed on some of the websites, use the part numbers from the Sears website and use that as your search criteria. Some model numbers will not reference on some sites, but the part numbers will.

Thanks for choosing FixYa and welcome to the site. Have you tested the heating elements yet? You need to make sure that power is getting to them. It may be the actual element though.

you have a bad thermal fuse ... take the back off your dryer and find the two only blue wires going
to a white thermel fuse ...

If it was the fuse the dryer would not run.

I suspect the smaller limit at the top of the heater chamber

Number 1 in this photo.

clean her up


Service manual

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Sounds like you may have two problems but the main problem might be that the element may be broken and one side is grounded, The switch on the motor may also be stuck in the on position as well.

The dryer is overheating due to a failing thermostat (cycling or high-limit) and this will lead to the thermal fuse and/or thermal cut-off blowing. The dryer will not run and function will work if the thermal fuse blows and there will be no heat if the thermal cut-off blows. Replace both thermostats including the thermal cut-off. Disconnect power then remove the rear access panel to access and replace the said parts.



The thermal cut-off (cut-out) and high-limit thermostat are sold as a kit with part number 279816 and costs about $30 while the cycling thermostat is part number 3387134 and costs about $20.

Let us know if you need further advice. Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from communicating with the expert. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.