Top 10 Kenmore 63942 Dryer Questions & Answers

The new dryer products clog up the fine mesh screen lint trap. Take it out each time and wash it with hot water until you can see the water run through. I learned this the hard way and paid for a service call.

You really need a volt / ohm meter to check for Continuity & Volts Its well worth the investment... $15.00 bucks give or take a few I would check to see if you have 220v to back of dryer where the cord mounts to dryer, If dryer is getting only 1 leg 110 volts instead of the 220 will it not heat. Check themostates & heater for Continuity... Most models, Now have a.. Hi-limit fuses that need to be checked for Continuity

Heating element can be found at amazon, click here and take a look: Amazon com kenmore dryer heating element. I hope this was helpful. Cheers

Amazon com kenmore dryer heating element

amazon.com

Amazon com kenmore dryer heating...

Normally when a dryer starts to exhibit longer dry times, then suddenly stop working, it is an indication that the Thermal Cut-Out has blown. The TCO acts as a fuse for the heating element circuits. When an overheat condition occurs, normally the hi-limit thermostat will open to shut off the heating element. This is how the dryer regualtes its heat. However, if the hi-limit thermostat malfunctions, the TCO will blow, It is not resettable, and has to be replaced. This also means that the hi-limit thermostat could be suspect and it should also be replaced at the same time. Normally, when you go to replace one or the other they are sold as a set. This still does not rule out the possibility of a bad heating element, either.

However, you said the dryer additionally does not start. With a blown TCO or heating element the dryer will still run, but will not heat. I'll get back to this in a minute...

Now...if your dryer has been having problems drying, the first thing you need to check is the ventilation ducting to ensure that it is not kinked or clogged. Poor air flow is the number one cause of dryer failures. Not to mention it can cause fires due to lint backing up inside the dryer. This could be the "electrical" smell you've experienced. If trapped lint is ending up on the heating element it will smolder and burn. I recommend the ducting be cleaned thoroughly about once per season. That's 4 times per year. If you've never cleaned the ducting, or your dryer is pushed all the way up against the wall causing the ducting to become kinked, you will have air flow problems. One way in determing air flow is to remove the vent hose from the back of the dryer and start the unit (of course, you need a working dryer in order to do this). The air should be forceful and slowly warm up to about 140 degrees. If the air flow is weak, you may have a clog inside the air baffle of the dryer (this is where the lint screen slides into). If the air flow is good, reattach the dryer hose and check at the output of the dryer vent as it exits your home. If the air flow is weak or non-existent then you know you have a clog in the vent line somewhere. Periodic cleaning will go a long way towards preventing future clogs. Dryer vent rule of thumb: The SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the vent line, the BETTER. Everywhere you have a bend or kink is an area where you will create potential collection points for lint.

Now, in determing which component is bad in your dryer. If your dryer has the lint screen on top of the unit, you will need to remove the back panel to get to the heating circuits. If your dryer has the lint screen in the door, you will need to remove the lower kick panel under the door by pushing in on the release tabs with a putty knife. They are located along the front seam about two inches in from each side.

The heating circuit is set up and troubleshot as follows:

Heating Element (located inside the heater box) - Resistance reading should be 9-13 ohms.

Thermal Cut-Out (located on the heater box) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Hi limit Thermostat (located on the heater box closest to the heating element leads) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

Operating Thermostat (located on the air baffle) - (May have 4 wires attached to it). Will read 0 ohms across one set of leads, 7 ohms across the other.

*Thermal Fuse (located on the air baffle) - Resistance reading of 0 ohms.

*If the Thermal Fuse blows, this will shut down the entire dryer. This is your likely suspect.

Here's a few things that will cause a dryer not to start at all:

1. Broken Drum Belt - If dryer is equipped with a broken belt relay, this will shut the dryer down.
2. Broken Door Switch - If the door switch is broken, this will shut down the entire dryer as no power is applied to the start switch with the door switch open.
3. Bad Start Switch - If the start switch does not toggle close or stay closed when released, the dryer will not start.
4. Bad Timer - If the timer does not function the dryer will not start.
5. Bad Drive Motor - No Motor, drum does not rotate, heating circuits may or may not function. DOUBLE CHECK the CONNECTOR PLUG on the Drive Motor. I have found situations where this plug came loose for whatever reason and caused the dryer to either shut off completely or work intermittently.
6. Bad A/C Receptacle and/or Connector Plug - If you aren't getting the proper voltage to the dryer, it will not run.

I just threw in those other items to give you some other things to consider. Troubleshooting is always an exact science as symptoms don't always indicate what you think the problem could be. The reason I keyed in on the heating circuitry was the intial symptoms you started with. Longer dry times are usually associated with poor air flow which usually causes something to eventually blow. I hope you find this information helpful. Please post back with any comments that I may assist you further. I hope this isn't confusing to you. Please ask for clarification if it is.

check your power if one leg is down eg 110 to the motor drier will run but not heat if the heater is getting 110 but not the motor drier will do nothing check for a partial tripped breaker eg one side tripped but not fully just turn off and reset check outlet for 220 check power cord at terminal block for loose or burned cord unplug first lol if cord is burned just means it was loose when in stalled most of the time this promb is elec.

The grinding noise is probably a worn out roller or the central bearing in the back. The center of the drum in the back has a part called a bearing which screws onto the back of the drum and has a stub which sticks out. The stub then goes into a bearing hole in the back panel of the dryer. If you are handy, you could try to replace yourself. I did it once. While you are at it, check the drum belt which goes around the drum and makes it spin. Replace it if looks like it has wear.

Where is the location of the heating element for a Kenmore 80 series dryer heavy duty model # 77834795

Here is the website for Kenmore driers and the manuals to download for free in Adobe format. They are only listed by model number. 

http://www.kenmore.com/shc/s/search_10154_12604?vName=Kenmore&cName=Washers+%26+Dryers&keyword=kenmore+drier&sLevel=0

Try the above, or consult a manual: Kenmore 80 Series Dryer Manual

The life of the dryer can be indefinite if maintained properly. I've worked on Kenmore dryers that were over 20 years old. Components do wear out from normal wear and tear sometimes and require replacement. Most of these components are not expensive and can be replaced by the average do-it-yourselfer. However, not maintaining the dryer exhaust ventilation can shorten the life expectancy of the heating circuits. Most commonly, this problem is caused by a blown thermal cut-out, or failed heating element.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an ELECTRIC dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3576548-dryer_runs_but_does_not_heat


First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

Replacement parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop and compare.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number (usually located on a nameplate around the door opening) so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this helpful.