Top 20 Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

Thermal fuse I bet

did it run before you got it?also what's the model number on the dryer,open the door look around where you put the clothes in and you'll see a tag with the model and serial numbers on it,kenmore doesn't make anything the only way to tell who made it is by the model number,110. is whirlpool,417. is frigidaire,send the full model number,things to check and that it's wired correctly,not being a wiseguy but i've seen them wired wrong,open the door and check the door switch,push on it and you should hear a click and the light should turn off and on,if that's good make sure the belt isn't snapped,most dryers have a belt switch,if the belt breaks the dryer won't run,if that's good your gonna have to get in there with a meter and check the thermal fuse and t-stats on the blower wheel housing and on the heater box,these are the easiest things to check and hopefully you'll find something wrong or one of the t- stats popped.if the thermal fuse or high limit is popped clean out the duct that the lint filter slides down into,if the dryer can't move air because it's blocked with lint one of the t-stats will pop as a safety,you said you just hooked it up so it's not a blocked vent line also you could have a bad cycling t-stat or a grounded heater,if the dryer runs to hot one of the t-stats will pop and the dryer won't run,it's easy to check the heater,just stick one of your leads from your meter on the metal outside case of the heater and touch the other lead to one side of the element,do this to both sides of the element one at a time,if you get a reading the element is grounded if not it's ok.hope this helps you out if you need more help send the model number

Had same problem with my ex-wifes drier. If possible load test your wall outlet. Chaces are one side of the breaker is not putting out what it should.240 total 120vac each leg.

This is a pretty easy fix and I recently had the same problem. I made a quick video about it. The problem was the dryer was run only a few mins then quit. The dryer limit was tripping because the control thermostat was not shutting down the lower safety limit was tripping and the power from the control thermostat was diverted via the orange wire to the timer motor which kinda caused the main motor to stop. When i ran the dryer in NO HEAT the dryer stayed running and that was my clue as to what may of been happening and that was the problem in a nutshell. My video: If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Won Start Easy Fix What to Test When Whirlpool or Kenmore Dryer Won Start or Run Kenmore Whirlpool Dryer Won Start Easy Fix Electric dryer no start does nothing Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. CHECK THERMAL SHUT OFF THERMOSTAT USUALLY LOCATED ON THE BLOWER. for OHMS or resistance with a meter. Should show a closed circuit. Ohms WHEN THIS FUSE BLOWS IT WILL SHUT DOWN EVERYTHING. NEXT Test the PUSH start switch with meter for OHMS. Should show OHMS when pushed in or on start, and no ohms or infinity when in off position. If you hear a humming/clicking sound from motor area you more than likely have a bad motor. Try this test out to see if u have weak windings or relay/capacitor on motor. Open the dryer door and turn by hand the drum while machine is on ON position. And you or someone else presses the door engagement switch in. If it starts up then u have bad windings Another thing to check is the belt safety switch. With a multi meter. Especially if u just replaced the belt. The belt safety switch is attached to the Tensioner and motor. IT LOOKS LIKE A DOOR SWITCH SOMEWHAT a little black pc of plastic with 2 prongs going into it. Sits at bottom of motor. Under the Tensioner. Attach meter clips to the 2 prongs on switch, Then when the little white push button is pressed in it should show continuity and none when released. Lastly check ur DOOR SWITCH for continuity with a meter when the button is pushed in the (on/Door closed position,) it may have gone bad.

Is the switch bad or did the cheesy sheet metal just bend a bit so the switch isn't being activated?

The circuit panel could be at fault

Speaking of these United States, here's how that goes.In this country, dryers are called 220, but they are really 110 twice!So, on the back of the dryer is a plug with 3 or 4 prongs.( hope you can get this from my description. )On a 3 prong plug, the two "slanted" prongs are each hooked to 110 volt p service. The "L" shaped prong is a ground. If you have a 4 pronged plug, the two flat straight prongs are 110 volt each, and the "L" shaped and the round prong are both grounded.FYI: Each of the 110 volt wires has a different function. One powers the motor, the other the heating element.Be Blessed.

Ain't no moisture sensor. This is is not an electronic sensing machine. It uses another method to determine dryness. An orange wire connects to the base of the heating element. The timer motor is driven by power from it in auto dry. The timer motor is VERY slow. Slower than most dryer timer motors.As the clothes get dryer the heat is not needed so the element is turned off by the control thermostat which is mounted next to the skinny white fuse on the blower housing. This allows for the turtle like motor on the timer to advance. Once the clothes get to the point of dryness the heater stays off way longer and the timer motor advances on over to the cool down and carry on over to the end of cycle. So the clothes won't always be dry due to factors like lint buildup in the blower housing, venting to outside and so forth. having said that my mom bought a brand new Kenmore dryer and I set it on 55 minutes timed drying. At the end of that them clothes is still damp. I then set it to auto dry high heat and that usually gets em dry. I think the main probo with this dryer is the thermostat ain't set as high as older models to keep the heat at a moderate temp so that the limits won't blow on models in apts and such. Just a theory. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

One possibility: Air flow! Make sure that the lint trap is cleaned before each cycle. You likely need to thoroughly clean out the vent piping out the back of the machine- a buildup of lint in here can also restrict airflow.

Hello, this is Ava with Think Crucial. You may find the User's Manual for your Kenmore model by clicking the link below. 11062932100 KENMORE DRYER Manual Sears PartsDirect You can purchase a wide variety of high quality appliances replacement parts direct from Think Crucial with free shipping and an exclusive 10% coupon for Fixya.com readers, use code: FIXYA10 https://www.thinkcrucial.com/collections/appliances I hope this was helpful. Ava B. Think Crucial Customer Care http://www.thinkcrucial.com/

then the heating element has to be defective check it with an ohm meter

Did you remove the filter chute? My dryer was making a heck of a racket and I found a wire inside the blower housing:Service manual and more If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You have a bad timer motor To verify you will get an ohm meter and remove the wires to the motor.Check between the motor wires fer continuity. If you have continuity then the next test will verify if the gears are stripped on the motor. Apply power to the timer motor and see if it advances on its own. From looking at your model number I see nothing unusual about the timer.to get to the[parts list I did 110.36873100. 110 is a the large prefix which ID's the dryer as being a whirlpool model. All kenmores ain't Whirlpool. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/231650-my-dryer-is-displaying-f2-whats-wrong-1

Hi aliash...
I will give you instructions on how to disassemble the dryer for cleaning and maintenance

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.

Note: This method workds for most front loading machines.
If you have to check/replace/repair your drum motor,drum seals,belt,rollers, etc.
If replacing drum seals be sure to use a good grade of weather proof cement to hold the seal/s in place, some seals are furnished with the cement to glue it in place.
Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch,start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer if necessary. Be real careful not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch or other electrical connections.
Remove the lint filter and the two screws that hold the filter housing to the top of the dryer lid.
Then remove the top of the dryer by inserting a screwdriver between the top and frame on each side of the dryer to pop the lid up from the retaining clips.
Note: Some of the tops tilt backwards on a type of hinge and do not have to be removed completly.
Remove the front of the machine by disconnecting the door switch and removing the two screws located on either side of the dryer frame.
Move the door and front of machine forward to remove.
This will expose the belt,idler bracket and drum, remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm bracket with pulley, and motor with pulley. Pay attention to the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt and drum.
Sometimes the belt will slip off of the idler arm or motor causing the drum not to turn.
Note:The way the belt goes back on is, as the belt comes off the drum has to be doubled (pushed together to form a loop) and goes under the idler pulley then to the motor pulley.

While you have the drum out, I would recommend that you lubricate the drum rollers at the shaft of the roller with a good grade of machine oil like 3 in One oil or a vasoline type of lubricant. This will save you a problem later with the rollers getting noisy, also check your drum rollers for flat spots, if they have flat spots on them this will cause a thumping type noise. You will need to replace the drum rollers if they have flat spots on them.
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Hi,

There can be many reasons why your dryer will not start or turn...

The most common causes are the belt breaking or jumping off, or the motor goingbad...

Here are a couple of tips that I wrote will help you to figure out why yourdryer will not run...

Dryer Repair - The Dryer is not Turning

Dryer Repair - The dryer will not start


heatman101

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101
'; ' ;';

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101

Hi, If you are having problems with your gas dryer not heatingthe most common problem is that the ignitor goes bad. Even though it glowssometimes it is still not working properly. if you dryer is gas check out this gas no heat tip.... If you have an electric dryer, you can have many differentthings that can go wrong causing the dryer not to heat. check outthis electric no heat tip...

heatman101.'
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