20 Most Recent Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer - Page 9 Questions & Answers

ck door switch first then your power to machine if all good ck the thermo fuse

the heat thermostat are not functioning well/need to replace parts.

remove bottom acces panel from under door, close door adnhook one end of sprinf to lower frame and other end around loop in hinge

does the dryer have a gray back panel if it does then take it off the fuse may be bad its a small 1 in in diamiter white with 2 wires going to it replace it if the dryer has a front bottom panel in front then it is in there fuse is bad that is your problem

If the dryer runs, but does not heat you may have a blown thermal cut-out and/or heating element. When was the last time you cleaned your dryer and ducting? If it's been a while, you may have an accumualtion of lint in the ducting or inside the dryer causing it to overheat. The thermal cut-out (TCO) is designed to blow in the event of an over temperature condition inside the dryer. This device acts like a fuse and is not resettable. If it trips, it must be replaced. The thermal cut-out (along with the hi-limit thermostat) will be mounted to the heating element housing. The TCO will read a short if good. Double check your heating element as well. The heating element should read about 9 to 13 ohms if good. If you can provide me with your model number (located along the door opening) I can locate part numbers for you and give you an idea how much repair parts may cost. In addition, I can provide you with step-by-step guidance on how to perform the repairs, if necessary. I hope this helps you.

PS If the TCO is bad, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer that you replace the hi-limit thermostat at the same time. In many cases these two parts come together as a set.

what starts and stops? the entire dryer or maybe the drum? Do you do anything to make it restart other than pushing the start button? This initially sounds like a temperature switch is opening and resetting after it cools. If you can describe the problem a little more in detail it would help.

That's no good....hopefully your house is still standing. Your coil is shorted to ground, so there is constantly 120v being applied to the heating element. It won't get as hot as when running, but because there is no airflow it poses a serious fire hazard.

just look at you local paper for a nice working dryer i get 125.00 each with a 30 day warranty with out warranty about 50-75 depending on condition start with your local paper and see what they are going for

The buzzer is wired through a switch on your dryer motor. The switch is NOT a normal switch... it's a centrifugal switch meaning that it is mounted on the motor shaft and rotates along with it. When it "spins up" centrifugal force flings it outward to make contact with the terminals on the outer edge of the inner motor housing (This tells the timer that the motor is functioning properly and it can now begin to heat the clothes. This is also the switch that keeps you from having to hold in the "Start" button 'til the clothes are dry) When the timer kills power to the motor, the buzzer sounds off because of this switch. As the motor slows, springs retract the switch from the contacts and shut off the buzzer. Make sense so far? Sounds like your centrifugal switch is getting stuck. Unplug the dryer and gain access to the motor. Then use Contact Cleaner in a spray can to spray and clean every inch (inside and out) of the motor. This should get you going again.

no about all the time this kind of problem is caused by some kind of vent restriction start by looking over th back of the drier with a flash light and see if the vent is mashed folded over on its self or too long you only need enough to hook to the connector to the floor then go to the out side with the drier running and check to see if the drier hood attached to the house is opening i some have a plastic screen attached to the hood to keep critters out make sure that's clear rule is must have a 4" opening from drier to out side hood cant hang down under house and come back up as dryer will fill it with water over a peorid of time now easy way to verify vent restiction is to disconect vent run 1 load and see if it dries in proper time about 60 min

your motor switch is gone you can either change the switch or motor you could try tapping the switch sometimes it will free the contact this switch is on the motor

make sure timer is completely off. if it still buzzes you will need a new timer or disconnect the buzzer which is cheaper

The buzzer on most Kenmore dryers is a separate 115V AC unit, and can be unplugged (be sure your power cord is disconnected!)
-- better yet, you might find an older style replacement door chime that is also a 110-115V unit, attach the wiring to this unit and have
a rather melodious or at least just a pleasant "ding-dong" chime instead of the obnoxious buzzers that all the companies seem to be using today.

If still heating, clean out vent and check for kinks. Also, REMOVE PLUG FIRST!! Remove back and remove four screw holding filter duct assembly at bottom left. Pull duct toward rear and reach into bottom of duct and remove lint. Also, wash out filter screen.

UNPLUG FIRST!!
Remove 2 screws at filter area. Pull top forward and pull up. Remove 2 screws holding front on. Remove drum and check 2 drum rollers to see if they spin freely. If not, replace them. Also check idler pulley.

You have to go in the back.. take loose the blower cover and pencil is probly in parts after hitting blower fan.. check fan for broken blades ect.

That means you are in the automatic cycle, or what is used to mean. Pretty sure it still means that. Jim

If your clothes get marked or torn in your dryer, check these:

Rollers
Rear seal
Front glides
Front seal
Rollers Your dryer may use rollers, or wheels, to support the rear of the clothes drum. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rollers wear out, you need to replace the whole set.

Rear seal Your dryer may have a felt-like seal at the rear of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, clothes can get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the rear of the dryer interior. When the rear seal wears out, you need to replace it.

Front glides Your dryer probably uses nylon or plastic glides at the front of the clothes drum for support. When these are worn out, they may cause the clothes drum to drop down slightly, which can pinch the clothes between the top of the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the glides wear out, you need to replace them as a set.

Front seal Many dryers have a felt-like seal at the front of the drum. If this seal is worn, torn, or missing, the clothes in the dryer may get caught and torn in the space between the clothes drum and the front of the dryer interior. When the seal wears out, you need to replace it.

110.2808 is an incomplete model number. Motors are typically $140 to $180 USD https://www.easyapplianceparts.ca/PartInfo.aspx?inventory=334304&SourceCode=18 This is is a typical Kenmore model designation and is probably the matching washer to your dryer. Yours is missing 4 numbers. Label in the back, label on the door frame, mentioned on the manual.

Model # 11028081700 Official Kenmore Elite washer

https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+elite+electric+dryer+110.2808 ..

Yes, it looks like you can. Don't forget though that you have to get inside and move the door switch. https://www.google.com/search?q=Kenmore+Elite+Quietpak+4+reverse+door ..