20 Most Recent Kenmore 659 Electric Dryer - Page 6 Questions & Answers

Hi, It sounds like maybe a motor over heating. If you can use it one load and try to restart it, and nothing happens, wait one hour and try again. If it starts, it is probably the motor. Does any of this sound like your simptoms?

Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.
Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

check the door swich to be sure made up properly

the heater box is located behind the back panel,it is long and metal,let me know if you need more help-mike

you need to check the heating element and the thermal fuse in the back of the dryer, they should be their. do you have an ohme meter, if not barrow one or you can pick one up cheep and lowes or homedepo .

This is a A.C. hum that you are hearing. this is a warning sign. You are experiencing motor failure. the actual windings inside of the motor are losing their potential to hold an even current due to breakage. the shutdown is a safety feature built in the control panel to prevent electrical spark/fire.

It may not be your heating element. Your dryer lint vent pipe out the back of the machine or maybe out the side may be plugged. You have to pull the machine out and clear that pipe or rebuild it out to a soffit vent or static vent if it is in the attic, or out through your crawl space. This will make a huge difference. If that hot air and moisture doesn't get out of the machine it just goes back into your clothes.
Good luck!!

DO NOT KEEP THE BUTTON PUSHED IN AND RUN IT...It's the motor relay and the even heat board in the console. By keeping the button in, you're bypasssing a safety feature and could cause fire. It won't heat like that anyway. Repl. the relay witht the small blue wires and the board in the console and you should be fine.

the pulley goes right beside the motor pulley,the belt goes under the big pulley and onto the motor pulley-mike

Sounds like a classic broken Belt. You'll have to take the front or top off to gain access to the belt and it is wrapped around the TUB. If you can pull it up and down with no problems its the belt or the idler tentioner that keeps the belt tight.

Possibly its also the tub rolers or bearings but if you can push the tub from the inside by hand you will know if its in this area or not. If it turns freely then the belts off or broke cause when its on and tight you anct make it move very far. Important not to make the tub turn back wards too far especially if its tough to move. If its loose to move then either way usually dosnt hurt anything.

if you take the back off of your dryer and look for a little white thermo fuse with 2 wires on it if you unhook the wires and plug them together than start the dryer if it starts shut it off and replace the fuse and clean your venting

Dryers could not be simpler devices. I assume that since all you mention is that the dryer is not heating, everything else on the dryer is working as normal. ie. You could put in wet clothes, set the timer start the dryer and the drum starts turning and air comes out of the exhaust. It just happens not to be hot. I am also assuming that you know how to use the drier and that it is not set on tumble (no heat).

If that is the case, the heating element is almost certainly burned out. Basically this is the part of the dryer that glows red (just like an electric stove) when electricity passes through it. Unplug the dryer and see how it can be taken apart. Many open from the top or the back. They are all slightly different. The heating element will be located near the blower fan typically at the bottom of the dryer. Figure out how to get at this, pull the old element out and then replace it with your new one. There will be two electrical connections. You may even see where the element just slides into position by the blower and can be removed with a couple of screws.

You should only need a screw driver to do all of this.

Plug the dryer in and enjoy the warmth.

I removed the deflector and duct from outside the house, disconnected the hose, attached the hose to the dryer, passed the hose through the wall as the dryer went back in, then reattached the hose to the duct/deflector and reinstalled the duct/deflector

If it starts and runs but then you have to let it cool down before it will turn on again then the motor has gone bad

sounds like you need a new drum belt. start by taking the top off then the front panel will have screws inside for removing the front. then once the front is off you will see the motor and where the belt should be. if the belt is broken, replace it, if not just put it back on the motor and idler pulley.

I need your MODEL number. You've given me the serial number and the type of dryer. I need the model number in order to cross reference. If this is a Kenmore, the model number should start with "110." followed by about 8 numbers. I apologize for requests for repeated information, but I cannot verify your information without it.

Also, I'm a bit miffed about the symptoms you describe. You said the dryer is running, but doesn't heat. Is that correct? If so, the following link will give you some insight on WHAT components can cause a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

Most dryer no heat problems are caused by improper air flow due to lack of proper maintenance. It is very important to keep the exhaust vents free of lint accumulations, rodent infestations, kinks and bends. Simply cleaning the lint trap is not enough. You have to inspect the vent ducting to ensure it is free of obstructions. The rule of thumb when it comes to ventilation is: the SHORTER and STRAIGHTER the exhaust vent, the BETTER. Every bend, kink or sag can cause potential choke points for lint to accumulate. It also creates resistance against the blower motor and forces it to work harder. This will actually cause the dryer to OVERHEAT to the point of failure. It is also recommended that you use the metal semi-rigid type ducting instead of plastic. It is more heat resistant, resists rodents chewing through it (mice love lint for nesting), and resists crushing.

More commonly, the thermal cut-out (also known as a thermister on some dryer models) will blow as it is designed to do. Once this component goes bad, it must be replaced. The reason I mention all these preventive measures is because most people simply do not know, and if you simply replace bad components and don't verify the ventilation, you may have to replace the same components again - real soon. Also, leaving a dryer with dirty ventilation creates a potential fire hazard.

As far as the timer is concerned, this may just be a symptom of your no heat problem. A lot depends on how the dryer is wired. I think we need first need to resolve the no heat problem, before assuming a timer problem. Please let me know some more information about your dryer, so I may give you a more definite solution. I hope that I have been of some help so far.

Please post the complete model number of the appliance.

Possible problems are -

1) Motor bearings are failing (lack of lubrication).
2) Idler roller is failing (lack of lubrication)
3) Blower bearings are failing (lack of lubrication)

The dryer complaint of "No Heat At All" can be a couple things for a given gas or electric dryer. (Keeping in mind; Insufficient "too long" to heat is a different type of complaint)

Defective Ignition Systems

For Gas Dryers; Thermal fuses (white - very likely), Gas valve coils (black; battery size; likely), Thermal Sensors (black, square; rare, but likely) and also Electric Ignitors (Glows red; likely) are very common for "no heat" complaints.

For Electric Dryers: Hi/low limit cut-off switches (Very likely) and electric heating element/coils (Likely) are very common. Also, tripped breakers for electric dryers (Very likely; may only be receiving 110v instead of the 240v needed)

With respect to your dryer vent-line; the line may be clamped down too tight. You may need a 1/4 screwdriver to loosen and remove (assuming it is not taped down)

-C

You may only be receiving 110 volts, instead of the 240 volts needed to operate. (Thus, only the light coming on)

Did you reset the dryer circuit breakers?
Are you receiving 240v to the plug?

-Chad

If "won't run" meaning; "does not tumble/spin" this can be a couple things;

1. Defective Drive Belt (Likely): Broken or jammed (not properly attached to motor/pulley). Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or rotate/tumble. "Normal ware and tear"

2. Defective Door Switch (Very likely) - Very common due to constant "slamming" of door. The door switch enables power to be passed through-out machine when door closes for safety purposes. Switch located at door area and can be tested for continuity. "Nothing will happen when pressing start; unit will not heat or tumble/turn". * Fairly easy to replace; two mounting screws.

3. Defective/Jammed Motor (Rare, but possible): You may hear a "humming noise" and burning smell. Also, excessive lint in blower housing may jam the motor from rotating. "Does not come on; does not tumble/turn"

Remember to disconnect power from unit before servicing.