20 Most Recent Kenmore 47722 / 47724 / 47729 Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

When cleaning the oven you got to be very careful because there's a little piece of copper in the back it looks like a little copper wire with a bare copper wire on it that is usually a thermostat it's on the back wall of the appliance inside the oven now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stopped workin now you have a heating element on top and bottom you said that one of them stop working when you were cleaning the oven could you may have hit it moved it enough to disconnect it at the connection that comes out of the back of the oven to the inside of the oven to the element check and see if the two wires coming out of the back of the inside to the element are disconnected usually it's a Phillips head screwdriver now if you broke one of those wires needs to be reattached before you do any kind of work on that element or anything you should always unplug your oven from the wall the electrical outlet unplug it to be safe now if your thermostat which is that wir thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and see me on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause you thermostat which is that wire copper wire looking thing coming out and ceiling on the back wall of the inside of the oven it's on a clip if you moved or bent that in any way that could also cause your temperature to be off you really don't want to have to touch that if you don't have to I hope that helped you be safe and good luck

Hello,
What will cause that is a part on the clock that powers the display to illuminate has gone out yet the part of the clock (also called the electronic oven control) that send power to the heat elements is still working.It may work like that for years as long as you done mind the clock not displaying, OR to get it to display the clock/eoc would need to be replaced .

Gene

Hi

Try different outlet, if its fine then check the fuse and its wiring, don't think any part is bad inside. Hope this helps...please post back for further assistance.

Daniel

Hi
Thanks for using FixYa. Error code F0 means failed thermistor/transistor in control and to resolve this issue you'll have to replace the Electronic range control (ERC). Please rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.
Thanks Rylee

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.





Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

It appears your clock controller/MCU has failed in this instance.

For replacement parts - head on over to PartSelect.com or RepairClinic.com and enter in your full model number for a full parts listing.
I recommend both sites because ...


FixYa has no affiliation with either site - I have been using and recommending them for years - trouble free.

PartSelect has a great schematic database for locating the part on your unit and great "testimonials" for each part that often times includes HOW-TO information.
RepairClinic has pictures of each part they sell and also a great how-to and troubleshooting for basic repairs.


If your unit has never been serviced - there should still be an original service manual enclosed in plastic taped to the inside of the shell.
In the service manual are Error codes, maintenance procedures, and troubleshooting steps you can follow.


Anything too complicated or beyond your scope should be handled by a professional.

If you think you want to tackle the repair - and have gotten stuck on a step - reply to your question and I will be glad to help you out.




Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
^#$@

Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.
%^%^

Hi,
The baking element is probably the problem...

Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4511800-oven_problems_electric_oven_heating

heatman101

F7 stuck keypad
Stuck keypad may mean relay is turned on.
Determine if problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:
1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting Ribbon Cable from control and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

f2 f3 code showing

No, the door is able to be opened, light works. No press switch works on the pannel and F 7 shows up on the scren along with time. I even can not fix or change the time. ANd, F7 goes away after pressing clear and comes back by itself after a while in both upper and lower. This is a Kenmore wall double oven. I do not know the model name, but it is not much used in teh last 5 years. Looks like a new one.

Here's a link that you can order your manual from: http://www3.sears.com/. Good luck!

This may be related to a problem that I have helped others solve. The solution is free and can be found at my website which is: http://fp1.centurytel.net/Powerman/Dreaded%20F7%20Problem.pdf It has helped over 1000 folks with a similar problem. Hope it works for you too.

The oven probably got switched from showing degrees Fahrenheit to degrees Celsius. (350 F = 177 C.) Try resetting that before you replace any parts.

ck this out.... https://www.appliancepartspros.com/b/gas-oven-igniter-glows-but-wont-light-top-3-reasons-and-fixes/ another place for parts... https://repairclinic.com you can also call their 800#s to confirm parts and get other info. or selectparts.com Best to you.

possible burner tube plugged or bad temp sensor