20 Most Recent Kenmore 95592 / 95594 / 95595 / 95599 Electric Kitchen Range Questions & Answers

I had some luck removing food and other stains with the new Vielda Glass Ceramic Scrung (its a sponge)

"
"Special scour sponge for cleaning glass ceramic cook tops without scratching. Eliminates burnt-in stains and greasy dirt film. Removes grease and loose dirt particles. Microfibre side will create a streak free finish."

I found mine at Walmart. It was a little pricey but if you just use the sponge for the stovetop then it will last a very long time.

Hope this helps.

Open the oven door and look for screws that hold the cook top down. Take those out and the cook top lifts off from the front. Make sure that you unplug it first. Then you can see the coil that is not heating. IT could be the wires, connector or the coil itself that is bad.

F10 is a power problem and probably is the control. Try turning off the breaker to the stove at the main electric panel. It will be one of the 220 amp breakers. One of the double ones. Wait 20 seconds and turn it back on. Sometimes this will clear the problem, but may soon be followed by a F 30 code. Neither is good and both point toward a faulty control panel.

What is the complete model number of your unit?

I am not an expert but I did have a spring break and had one disconnect on one side and that made the door sag on the one side Good Luck

What is the model number of your unit?

Your BAKE element relay on the Electronic Oven Control (EOC) Board is shorted.  I have experienced this problem before.  The board is not serviceable and (unfornately) you will have to replace it.  The board can run anywhere from $100 to $200 for a new one.  Slightly less for a refurbished one.  Prices will also vary depending on source.  This is a repair you can do yourself if you choose to do so.  If you can provide me with your model number (located inside the lower door panel), I can do some research to get a part number and price for you.  Let me know.  I hope this is helpful.

Hi Judy and welcome to FixYa, I am Kelly.
There are several places model numbers are on a Kenmore range, The first is just inside the oven door on a silver colored decal. The 2nd place model numbers are located are on the back of the unit near the top panel usually not far from the electrical connection.
See this picture for possible locations:
http://www.repairclinic.com/images/ModelHelp/Stoves/GasFreeStanding.jpg

Once you finally locate the model number go to this link:
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals Enter your model number and you can download your manual.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

Hi,

F10
Runaway Temperature.
1. (F10 only) Check RTD Sensor Probe & replace if necessary. If oven is overheating, disconnect power. If oven continues to overheat when the power is reapplied, replace EOC. Severe overheating may require the entire oven to be replaced should damage be extensive.
2. (F11, 12 & 13) Disconnect power, wait 30 seconds and reapply power.
3. (F11, 12 & 13) If fault returns upon power-up, replace EOC.

I would first pull your range out from the wall, unplug your range, then take off the back access panel and using a DVM check the ohm reading on your oven sensor#37 here:
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_pn...9098-00003.png
It should ohm out at 1100 ohms at room temperature.

Here's the oven sensor probe for your model:
Part#316217001



If that checks good, then your EOC control board is the problem.


Here's the EOC Board for your model:
EOC Board - Manufacturer's Number: 316418207
I hope that this helps.
asnowman

that fault refers to a shorted key panel, recommended repair is to replace replace Electronic Range Control/Clock (erc)

The F9 code indicates there is a problem with the door lock.

Try disconnecting the power to the range for 10 seconds and reconnecting. Open the oven door and hold the door switch plunger in while you try these things. Put the control into clean for 5 minutes then cancel clean. You must hold the door switch plunger in for the 5 minutes.

Try canceling the clean cycle without putting the control into clean.



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Here is some wisdom for understanding F1 fault codes.

In some models, there are subcodes that make diagnosis even easier.

Here's a simple explanation of what's going on and how to troubleshoot:

The F1 code indicates that:


a. The electronic range control (ERC) is sensing heat in the oven when in a time-of-day (i.e., not cooking) mode.

b. The ERC is receiving information to run multiple heat functions simultaneously.


Although different components (depending upon the model) could generate the code, simple and straightforward testing using your ohm meter is all you gotta do to test for it.

1. Check the oven temperature sensor. The oven sensor has to be within spec or it will cause the F1 code.
As an example of being out-of-spec, the ERC will generate an F1 fault code when the sensor shows 1650 ohms during a time-of-day mode.
This is equivalent to 350°F in the oven.
The resistance isn't high enough to generate an F2 code (runaway temp) or an F3 or F4 code (shorted/open sensor circuit).
The ERC monitors the sensor circuit after a heat cycle and expects the resistance to drop back to 1050-1100 ohms.
The fault code is generated when this doesn't happen. Checking the sensor circuit means also checking the harness,
harness connections and the sensor itself.

2. If the oven sensor circuit checks okay, then turn your inquisitive eyeballs to the touchpad.
If the range has a separate touchpad/keyboard, the keypad may have moisture that is shorting several circuits simultaneously.
If the F1 code is given immediately (instead of during or after a heat cycle),
remove the ribbon connector from the touchpad to the ERC after clearing the F1 code. If the F1 code does not return in five minutes,
then cast a suspicious gaze upon the touchpad/keyboard. Shorts may be caused by using an ammonia-based glass cleaner.
The touchpad surface will absorb ammonia-based cleaners that are sprayed directly on the glass surface. When heat is applied,
the surface material can break down causing shorts.
If you're gonna use ammonia-based cleaners on your control panel, then you should spray it on the rag and then wipe the touchpanel
-don't spray directly onto the surface of the touchpad.

3. On Amana ranges with a rotary temperature dial, be sure that the knob is in the OFF position when performing tests.

4. If these tests all check good, then replace the ERC.


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You have a bad control board which is part of the clock circuit. Costs about $125.00 and is easy to replace.

Try removing and refitting it a few times otherwise you will probably have to get new door latching mechanisms. You may just be lucky that they have been dislodged but they are most likely to have been broken. The clicking is the door interlock mechanism trying to lock and unless it succeeds the oven will not work.