20 Most Recent GE WJRR4170E Top Load Washer - Page 3 Questions & Answers

Chcek that there is not a build up of detergent / dirt in the tube that joins the bottom of the tub to the pressure switch. You can check the pressure switch by blowing into it, listening for a click and checking continuity across the terminals

.I am not a repair professional. I am a 78 year old man
who has been making his own repairs for about 50 years. So the washer or dryer ID doesn't mean much to me. I came to fixya looking for a schematic for an really old AM/FM radio and found that more than 4,700 people were asking for help with a washer repair. I recently had a washer repair of my own and at that time I found an excellent video which showed me how to take my machine apart. This video made it possible for me to do my own repair. If you are repairing a dryer or a front load washer I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good step by step trouble shooting and repair information on washers and dryers as well as other appliances. If you have a direct drive top load washer and need help taking it apart this video is an early christmas present. I was so impressed with it that when I saw all these people needing help, I wanted to tell them about it. If you look at the back of your washer and the panel is solid (no small inspection plate to remove which would indicate you have a v-belt drive) chances are you have a direct drive and this video is just what you need. You can see it at www.acmehowto.com You will probably still need help in determining what the trouble is and how to fix it. After viewing the video or if you have a v-belt drive rather than a direct drive, I suggest you go to www.applianceaid.com where they have very good
trouble shooting and repair nformation on most
washers and dryers. I think you'll find what you need
there. Don't worry about the timer, they hardly ever
go bad. Good luck with it. If I have helped you, please rate my advice on fixya.

pop open the front. Check the little 1/4 in hose going to the side of the tub. It may have gunk build up inside it blocking air flow. Its the pressure hose that tells your water level switch how much water is in the washer. Clean it out as well as the port it attaches to.

there are 4 rods that the tub hangs from. the plastic pieces at the top of the rods are supposed to wear in, but many of them continue to squeak. had the same problem with mine for the last 4 years. in year 1, the GE repair guy said this is common and showed where to lubricate. open the front panel (stick a screwdriver or stiff butter knife to depress the 2 clips.) you'll see the rods. (altho the back ones are kind of hidden). a quick spray of silicon will quiet the squeak. usually lasts about a year.

need to open washer and check the DRAIN MOTOR PUMP , usually gets clogged with lint and debris , usually located at the bottom side , small motor w/ propeller ,where the drain hose is connected, AJ

Don't feel foolish as im sure your not the only one this has happened to. to remove the agitator cap you must lift it off, apply slight twisting to it while your doing this. soap can gum it up so you may have to use a straight screwdriver to assist you. once you have done this, there should be EITHER a set screw for an allen key on the SIDE of the agitator OR a 3/8 hex screw in the center or the agitator. there is a spring under this screw so remove both and the agitator should lift staight up. use an old belt underneath the base of the agitator for better results. i hope this has answered your question.

Thanks

It sounds like you may have a transmission problem and it may be seized, please check the inner walls of your washer to see if any oil has left the transmission.

There are little things that they call dog triggers that could be worn.
they should cost about $5.00

The lid switch must be checked for continuity. On this model the lid switch must be good to agitate and spin.

Turn off both faucets. Remove hoses (from faucets to machine) from machine end (keep track of where they go) and place in bucket. Catch the water draining as you remove the hoses from the machine. Turn on one faucet at a time to check volume of water flow. There are small screens placed in the inlet ends of the hoses and also in the machine inlets. Check these for plugging (rust or hard water deposits). If good water flow from both hoses, then problem is with the intake solenoid valves or with power control to them.

What happens if you ask for a half load does it fill up to the top

If so you have wired the pressure switch up wrong and the machine thinks it is doing what it is told to do

I hope you wrote down the colors of the wires and which terminals they went on before you changed the unit ?

It sounds like it could be a brake pad that has broken and is partially rubbing against the brake frame.

the timer knob has a clip that will allow you to remove the knob from the timer. it is between the knob and the dial. what happens is the knob has gear like teeth that will become stripped out.it is easy to replace but alittle hard to remove. you need to get a small screwdriver and go behind the knob, pull on it alittle and you will see the clip, then use the screwdriver to push the clip out of the knob, then the knob will pull of and you can replace it.

Turn off the cold water.
Remove the cold water hose from the machine.
Look inside the cold water inlet on the machine and clean the debris from the screen.
Problem solved.

IF the agitator is like the ones in the older models, it will just pull straight up and off of the transmission shaft.

Inside the agitator there is a rubber splined insert with an aluminum center. The soft aluminum strips out causing the grinding sound. Very common to happen.

We used to use a special puller to remove that part and then press a new one back in.
Voila! Repaired agitator!!

Most any appliance parts store should be able to look up your model # and tell you if that agitator can be resplined.

I have a different model, but my agitator came off with brute force. I used 2 allen wrenches in the slots on the side of the agitator to get leverage and then yanked until it came off. The problem is your air bell coupler.

I had the same problem. Take the agitator off by pulling on it extremely hard - use allen wrenches in the slots on the sides to help. This exposes the "air bell coupler" - take the 7/16" bolt out and slide it off. Chances are the spline is stripped out inside. The part is 5 bucks online

I have the same problem with my GE washer (GJXRP080B2WW). We started the washer before going out and when we came back home. The cycle finished and the cloths were clean but all wet! I then tried again and it did fill water and drain but didn't agitate or spin. I checked the lid switcher, the timer and the agitator which are fine. However, the motor belt doesn't move and it seems the motor doesn't work when power was on. There are a lot of wires connected to the motor and I don't know which one to check to be sure power goes to the motor. Could you please help me? Thanks.

BTW, I didn't find any Reset button or the start capacity...

http://www.hrdiemen.es/data/descarga/inverters_lcd/I06L20001.pdf

check level switch and hose from tub. if hose is in place on both ends and not blocked (common) then replace switch. with tub empty remove hose from switch and blow into it. if it blows thru then its not blocked.