Top 10 GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer Questions & Answers

The water sound is normal. There is a solution in the top of inner tub for balance. Is it overflowing...as in not stopping the fill cycle? If so check to make sure small hose is still attached to outer tu at bottom left front. This dome that it connects to can become filled with scum and causes the unit to not know that it's full. This causes flooding. You can try removing hose and cleaning out with thin wire. Sometime only fix is to replace outer tub. Again, this is only if overflowing!!
Another possibility is a bad break allowing outer tub to spin in agitation. This throws water up over sides of tub. Monitor unit when agitating to see if outer tub picks up speed and starts to spin. It is normal for it to index.

I have been having the exact same problem in a top load Kenmore 80, starting about a year ago when I replaced the pump because the old one, (30 years old), finally seized it's bearings.

The new pump design has some rough edges near the water exit port and lint slowly collects there until it stops it from draining properly. Since the lint clumps do move around a bit, when the problem first starts occurring it is an intermittent problem, but as more lint accumulates it gets worse and worse.

The old pump couldn't be taken apart, (and never need to be taken apart), but the new one can be disassembled rather easily and when the lint clumps are removed everything works great for another month or two.

The pump is the so called direct replacement from Sears, for the washing machine that they sell, but obviously is not well suited for machines like mine that do not have lint filters.

I suspect they want to render my machine obsolete so that I buy a new one, after all they don't make much money selling 1 washer every 30+ years, especially if it rarely needs service. Why else would they sell pumps that don't work in place of pumps that worked well and lasted over 20 years.

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There's a part under the agitator(which lifts off if you pull up from the bottom evenly on two sides) called the "Air Bell Coupler" that attaches to a metal toothed motor shaft with one bolt. More than likely the plastic teeth have stripped off from this coupler, preventing it from sitting tightly on the shaft, thus causing the agitator to not "agitate" properly. You can get this from www.partselect.com. PS1517844 KIT - AGITATOR COUPLING
Cost is $7.15 plus shipping.

Good luck!

I can not set the timer on my GE washer. The knob just turns with out stopping.

I had the same problem. The machine will do the washing cycle. At the start of the spin cycle it would start turning with a lot of clicking sounds and then would stop spinning. The water pump would continue working without problem. The motor tries to start again in about three minutes, however, repeats the same behavior. I have a reasonable mechanical and electrical knowledge. I was sure that the overload protection switch of the motor was tripping. I opened up my machine---a GE super capacity top loading machine. Took off the belt and turned the transmission pulley. It turned easily in both directions (washing and spinning). Hence, the transmission was good. Next, I checked any water accumulation in the spin tub. If the water is not drained properly before the spin cycle, it would overload the motor. There was no water clogged in the spin tub. Finally, I dismantled the electric motor. There was a clutch assembly underneath the motor pulley. I dismantled it and found the clutch very dirty with some grease that had turned sticky. I cleaned the assembly thoroughly with alcohol and assembled back the machine. The machine is running perfect after that. Conclusion: The clutch assembly was mis-functioning. Reason: When the spin cycle starts, the spin tub is very heavy and cannot achieve the full speed quickly. On the other hand, electric motors must get to their running speed fairly quickly or else overheating of motor would happen. A proper functioning clutch allows the motor to run at their optimal speed while transferring enough torque to the spin tub to slowly speed up the tub to its fullest. In my case, the clutch was sticky, thus overloading the motor which would trip as it overheats.

The usual culprit for a washer that will not stop filling is the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load size, or water level knob (this knob has different names based on the washer model). Before assuming the pressure is defective, however, inspect the pressure switch and ensure the small plastic air hose is still attached to it. It is common for this small air hose to come loose or develop small cracks or breaks. Without the hose installed, the switch cannot detect the appropriate pressure in the wash tub and will not shut off. The result: as washer that continually fills and will overflow. What appears to be a significant problem may only be a loose hose and few minutes of your time. Please inspect the switch, check the entire length of the hose for cracks and make sure the electrical connection(s) are intact and not corroded, then get back to me. I hope this helps you.

PS Make sure you UNPLUG the washer before servicing!

Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.

Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.

I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.

I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.

In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.

So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.

But I digress.

The procedure to reset the control board is this:

1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.

It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.

Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.

If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.

If your washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle or drain, the problem is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r385198-replacing_lid_switch

If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.

Hello there:
Here is a few tips that might help you out
Hope that they are very helpful for you
Best regards Mike
Washing machine is leaking Washing machine leaks are very common. There are many places a washing machine can leak from although most leaks come from the same few places. The most common cause for a leaking washing machine is the door seal. Door seals often get holes in them and water leaks down the inside of the washing machine which then runs out under the front. Water leaking down the front of the washing machine from the door can be caused by a worn door seal (the flange part that the door glass presses against when closed) or something trapped between the door seal and the door glass which breaks the seal. If the door seal doesn't look worn, or it's too young to be worn, then try cleaning the door seal's flange and the door glass on the inside of the door. Bits of cotton, un dissolved washing machine detergent etc can cause a leak.
Soap dispenser leaks
The next most common cause of a leaking washing machine is the soap dispenser. Leaking water from a soap dispenser is often caused by a blockage, or water pressure that is simply too high. Despite seeing many leaking soap dispensers, I've never seen a soap drawer with a seal, they just rely on water not getting to the front which is not really good enough. Some Hoover soap dispensers in particular, are renowned for leaking, and over the years Hoover have had to introduce modified soap dispensers twice.
Some washing machines, can flood water out of the soap dispenser when a hose gets blocked (usually with un dissolved soap powder) Indesit, and Candy, as well as some of the later Hoover washing machines suffered from this design flaw. The hose where the water is flushed down, was right at the front of the soap dispenser on these washing machines and the hose wasn't wide enough. Un dissolved powder from a tablet or lumps of detergent through poor hot water pressure can block this hose solid. (Note: water flooding out of the front of a washing machine's soap dispenser can also be an indication of overfilling or a partial pump blockage if it does it when spinning)
Finally, black gunge in the top of the soap dispenser can cause water to spray towards the front and leak. Take out the soap dispenser drawer and look at the roof of the soap dispenser. If it's covered in black gunge, blocking some of the water holes, it could be causing problems. In extreme cases I've had to replace the dispenser.
Tips for finding a leak on a washing machine

• If you have a leaking washing machine, and you can't see where it's coming from, shove some newspaper underneath the washing machine. The slightest drop will give a clue where the water is leaking from. Pull the sheet out regularly to check for water leaks.
• Water can run round things and drip onto other parts. Be careful with your diagnosis, as water dripping from a hose at the bottom could actually be leaking from somewhere else higher up.
• Leaks usually leave marks, so it's possible to see something is leaking even without witnessing it. The soap suds that come out with the leaking water leave white trails. Rust is a good indicator of a water leak too. However, if you have had a previous leak cured, the "evidence" of a leak may still be present so be sure you don't blame a part that was repaired in the past.
• If the washing machine leaks only at the end of the wash, when water is being pumped out. Make sure water isn't backing up and cascading over the top of a blocked drain pipe in the plumbing.
• WARNING: Don't get electrocuted trying to witness a leak. It's dangerous running the washing machine with the top or back off.