GE WDSR2080D Top Load Washer - Answered Questions & Fixed issues

Hi,
The soleniod valve is bad.... here is a tip that will help...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3880845-washing_machine_problems_no_water

heatman101

same part different name the pressure is obtained by as the water level rises in the tub the air trapped in a small hose attached to the switch increases in pressure to a point where it over comes the spring tension set and that stops power to the inlet solenoid Now you can have 2 problems the nose is leaking air the inlet water solenoid is not shutting off the water supply

sounds like a faulty cold water solenoid

Put old coupler back on transmission shaft. Can you now turn coupler? You should not be able to. If you can, grooves in coupler are stripped out. Replace coupler. Part # WH49X10042

It's very likely you need to replace the agitator dogs; it's easy to do if you're handy. I have done it twice and it only took about 40 minutes from start to finish (once you have the parts of course). Be sure to get the correct ones for your make and model and opt for OEM parts if you can. You can find them with an internet search:

unplug the power cord to reset the control board, If that doesn't work the board is probably bad. It will have to be checked with a multimeter.

Hi


Thanks for using FixYa. Overfilling in your washer occurs mainly due to two things: water inlet valve going bad and/or the water level switch. If the water inlet valve has gone bad it won’t be able to shut off even when the electricity has been turned off. If the issue is with the water level switch then it won’t tell the water to shut off and the machine will overflow as this switch is to sense the water level in the clothes tub. However, with that being said it seems that you’ll need to replace the water inlet valve. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.


Thanks
Rylee

I could only find one: they have a service manual available at http://www.servicemanuals.net/ It'll cost you $16.99 but it's in pdf format available for immediate download.

Found it on Amazon for $6... Part number: WH01X10460 Amazon com General Electric WH01X10460 Control Knob Home Improvement

Sounds like the encoder is faulty

Control board sound faulty

The tub bearings are worn out, you will have to replaced the outer tub to repair this problem. Good luck. Here to help

Between the motor and the transmission is a rubber piece with each side -- plastic drivers - on the shafts. Sounds like you need that new coupler. They are designed the take the jolts of the start and stopping but they wear out. You have to pull out the machine from the wall. Tilt it back and you can see the joint between the motor and the trans. You may see debris on the floor too from the disintegrating of the coupler On top of the motor is the pump with metal clips. Use a screw driver to remove the clips and pull the pump off - let it hang. Next, get your small socket set out and take out the 1/4 inch screw head on the motor clips. Use the driver and remove the clips holding the motor to the plate and the transmission. The plastic drivers and the rubber grommet will now be separated. Note how the motor is mounted on the plate with rubber grommets. Remove the motor. Use a screw driver if necessary to get the broken parts off the shafts of the trans and motor. Replace the drive coupling and reassemble the unit. An easy fix

Can't do anything about the one that's smoking. As with most electrical stuff, once you let the smoke out it no longer works.

Mine had the same original problem. Would fill, but would not agitate. It just sat there with a tub full of water and clothes.

I scoured the internet, and came to the conclusion that it was either:
The timer (unlikely, according to most posts I read), or
The motor. The motor in these is a reversing motor - one direction for spin, the other for agitate.
If half the motor quits working, you'd get spin but no agitate or vice-versa.

I took the motor out to take it and have it bench-tested to be sure before I spend the money on a non-returnable new motor. Unfortunately, no one here can (or will) bench-test the motor.

In the meantime, my wife called the retailer where we bought the machine and asked if they could test the motor. They said there was no need - that the control board in the machine probably just needed to be reset.

So far, I have taken off the front panel, taken off the control panel, removed the top of the machine, removed the ring on the top of the tub. Removed the agitator. Removed the four bungee-cord things that keep the machine from rolling over or something. Removed the bell thingy under the agitator. Removed the big nut under that to be able to remove the tub. Removed a plate on the top of the machine so that there is room to remove the tub. Removed the tub. Removed the big tub by lifting it to disconnect the shock absorbers, and disconnecting the drain hose and the air tube that controls the fill level. Tilted out and removed the big tub with the motor frame attached to the bottom. Removed the pulley, belt and motor frame. And removed the motor from the frame. All just to get the motor out to take it to the shop. Who would not test it.

But I digress.

The procedure to reset the control board is this:

1) Unplug the washer.
2) Wait 30 seconds or more. (This allows all capacitors to discharge and make the "computer" forget everything.)
3) Plug the machine in.
4) Open and close the lid 10 times. (The magnets in the lid are the only method you have to "talk" to the "computer.")
5) Run the machine.

It sounded stupid. It sounded like a Monty Python skit, but I did this. I reassembled the machine, and did the reset procedure. The machine worked just fine. Filled, agitated, drained, rinsed, did the spin cycle. Just like a wash machine should.

Makes me wonder about $300 repair bills.

If your timer dial doesn't advance and it just keeps filling sounds like a bad timer.

then you need to look at the pressure switch ,,,the pipe to it ?? has no holes on it ?? or you have a doggy water valve?????

Washers start in fill mode as it requires the level of water set to start the agitator mode.. If your machine goes immediately to agitate then I would think that the agitator control module is failed and needs replacement. have an appliance electrician check it out.

the wigwag switch may need to be serviced.have someone come look at it and watch what they do taking it apart...when they have it apart and tell you what is wrong... and what they are going to charge to fix it, if the repair is more than $50 tell them you will just fix it yourself.(the part is $23 at the local applience parts center)

Hii, If your video files like avi, 3gp, or dvix is not playing then it means that it is corrupt. So you need to use Video File Repair software, which repair dvix file easily.

If you can't loosen the nut, you can break it with a hammer and a metal chisel. Tub nut is cheap. Grease on clothes = new transmission time.
By the way, after you remove the inner tub,.... you have to take the entire outer tub assembly out of the washer, flip it upside down, remove the yoke that holds the motor onto the outer tub, and pull the transmission out through the bottom of the outer tub.