20 Most Recent GE DRSR483ED Electric Dryer Questions & Answers

If have a wiring/scematic diagram for the machine and a meter, you might try tracing the problem that way, just a thought may be a loose or bad wire on the back of the timer. It could be possible that the timer may have gone bad. Please let me know if this helps you in anyway.

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The video below demonstrates step by step instructions on replacing your belt. Best of luck!Greg

your dryer needs a service the best thing to do is flip the top off and vac it out

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE ATTEMPTING TO DO ANY WORK ON IT.
Check to make sure you are getting full 220 Volt power to the dryer, if you are then:
Check your Wiring
Often the main wiring connection from the house, at the dryer, burns and the connection breaks. If this has happened to your dryer, you need to replace the power cord and the terminal block inside the dryer to which the wire is attached.
Check the Door Switch
If the door switch or the door-switch actuator is defective, the dryer won't work and you need to replace the failed component. The switch is inside the dryer main housing near the door frame. Sometimes you need to raise or open the top or front of the dryer to reach the switch. Check for continuity you should have none with door open, and should have a reading when closed. If not replace the door switch.
Check to make sure you heating problem is not a lint build up in the discharge hose or the dryer,as this condition can cause heater/thermistor problems such as overheating of the heating coil leading to failure of the coil and burnout of the thermostat/thermistor due to overheat.
Remove the back/or front just under the door of the machine and try to locate the air duct going from the blower to the drum. Normally inside/outside the air duct you will find the heating coil and the thermostats/thermistors. Once you have located the heating coil, remove the two wires from it and check the coil with an ohm meter across the two terminals of the coil.
You should read continuity across the terminals, if not you will need to replace the coil as it is faulty.
If the heating coil is ok, then:
You can check the thermostat/thermistor one at a time by removing the two wires and taping them together with electrical tape and running the dryer to check to see if the element is red or not,
or with an ohm meter check the two terminals of the thermostat/thermister
after you have removed the wires, the thermostat/thermistor should have/show continuity across the terminals.
If the coil heats up, or the thermostat/thermistor shows an open circut
then replace the thermostat/thermistor as it is defective.
If it overheats the dryer will not operate properly.
It's located on the blower housing.
It cannot be reset. A vent clogged with lint can cause it to overheat.
You can test it with an Ohm meter/continuity checker, if no continuity,
replace it)
DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRES TAPED TOGETHER AFTER THE TEST.
This could cause a FIRE, as you have removed the safety of overheat from the machine.
Right after replacing a dryer element, always run the dryer on 'air fluff' / 'no heat', and go outside to verify there's plenty of air coming out your vent system.
If the vent's clogged, that new element can burn out very quickly.
For video and pictures on how to replace the an element go to the following website, it will give you an idea what you are in for:
davesrepair.com/DIYhelp/DIYreplacingWPLdryels.htm
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check the vent hose. It may be clogged with lint. best spot is to disconect the hose from the dryer that is usually where the clog is. Also check for spots the hose is pinched.
Note it is not the gas line or anything to do with electrical. it is a flexible hose that usually blows hot air outside.

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote about dryers and noises...

It will help you determine what is happening there...

Dryer Repair Squeaks, Grinding, Clicking and Knocking Noise


heatman101

Asker's Testimonial "That answer was very informative - thank you fortaking the time to educate me. " - teresa241964

replace start switch

ALWAYS UNPLUG YOUR DRYER BEFORE STARTING ANY REPAIRS
Your problem sounds like drum rollers have flat spots on them or in need of lubrication, or maybe your drum belt has slipped off of the idler arm pulley.

Note: This method works with most front loading machines.

Remove the electrical console that holds the timer switch, start switch, etc. from the top of the dryer.
Note: Some tops hinge and tilt backwards so they do not have to be removed and the electrical console with stay with the lid.
Also remove the lint filter and the screws holding the lint filter housing in place.
Be REAL CAREFUL not to knock any of the wires off of the timer switch. Then remove the top of the dryer.
Remove the front of the dryer. This will expose the drum and belt. Remove the drum and belt and this will expose the drum rollers, idler arm pulley and motor.Now is a good time to replace the front felt seal on the drum if it needs to be replaced. Be sure to use a good grade of weatherproof cement on the seal to glue it to the drum, sometimes the glue is furnished with the seal.
Now is also a good time to check the belt to see if it has slipped off of the idler arm pulley and also to check the belt condition for wear.
Be sure to note the route of the belt, this will come in handy when you go to reinstall the belt.
Check your drum rollers for flat spots or wear, if they have flat spots they will make a thumping type of noise or if there is too much wear on them replace them.
If the drum rollers don't have flat spots or wear on them then they probably only need lubrication. Lubricate the shaft of the rollers with a good grade of machine oil such as 3inOne oil. Reassemble the dryer, plug back in. This should solve your noise problem.

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try letting the mouse out??? its likley to be the drive belt or rear bearing dry,,, could be the motor bearings dry,,
back bearing and motor bearings could be lubed with WD40 but dont put it any were near the drive belts as they will then slip like mad,
spray on the driv belt a bit of "stop squeak" its for car fan belts realy but it works on any rubber belt

If your dryer drum turns...ie if the dryer comes on, you do not have a breaker problem...and yes the problem is probably with the element. Change the entire element...and that IS the heater. Good luck, any problems let me know...

if you have a voltmeter i would check the heaters and make sue they are not open. the cetrifugal switch on the motor also has to close before the heater can come on. you can check this audibly by opening the dryer and spinning the drum, you should hear it click with a rotation. i would also recommend checking the voltage to the unit. i have sen power problems cause this. you need 240 volts. the motor runs off 110 and can run with 1 leg of power out

This could be a stuck main timer control or thermostat. I recommend you un-plug the dryer until the problem is located. You don't want to start a fire or do more damage.

To do that today, you would need to do the following for older dryers. Turn off the power by pulling the plug From the back remove the console. Remove the top Undo the two screws at the kick strip Carefully remove the front remembering there are wires. Short the wires together and tape them up. Put it all back together. For modern dryers. Some are surface mount and just pull out. Order the part, DON'T leave it like that! ..

The switch is faulty. It needs replacement

The reason for this will be that you have mis-routed the belt or that the spring on the idler arm is weak or has broken / dropped off. The idler pulley puts tension on the back edge of the belt. What made the loud noise will be the key to this. My bet is that you lost the spring or an idler arm mounting bolt.