20 Most Recent GE 30 in. JGP336 Gas Cooktop - Page 9 Questions & Answers

Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

You have a defective control firing off. I suggest you just turn off the the power to the unit, until you can have repairs made.

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

Their is no pilot lite on your oven..the clicking you hear is the electronic pilot system..
you have a defective control knob...

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Sorry to read about your problem, I hope this helps you out.

you have to pull the range out from the counter and remove the back

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Unplug your cooktop for 24hrs and retest. Sometimes moisture gets into the switches under the knobs and can cause a short. If this continues after you let the unit dry out then your will need the replace the switches/or switch harness.
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unplug it

unplug it and buy a new one

If you are saying the clicking continues you must move the burner knob past the LITE position.
If it continues clicking with the knob past the LITE position the ignitor switch behind the knob is bad.

Most likely this happen after cleaning the cooktop. Water has gotten into one of the spark ignitor switches. Generally, if left unplugged for a time (like a day or so) it will dry out on it's own and resume working again.

take off the knobs, unscrew the plastic underneath the knobs, take off the plastic cover. unscrew the four metal screws holding the the display panel on. remove the 5 silver screws across the top inside of the plastic cover front and the 2 black ones on the lower left and right sides. remove the to stainless steal stews on the sides of the stove towards the rear top. these should allow you to remove the cover once you unplug the two cables going into the burners.

When this happens on mine it is because some water has spilled into the recesses around the knobs, shorting the switches that supply power to the ignitors. It stops when they dry out. I don't know how this would have happened at 5 AM though.

I usually turn off the electricity to the hob until the switches dry. You can still use the burners, you just have to light them by hand.

One of your burner switches is stuck in the ON position. On older models the switch itself can be replaced. On newer models the whole bunch need to be replaced. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

It is sparking because the module does not sense the heat which would normally cause the sparking to stop.

It can be caused by a poor ground, make sure the ignitor at that burner is clean and free from any obstructions. If it is then it could either be a defective ignitor or spark module.

Please tell us everything you did to convert your stovetop/oven to LP? Beside swapping the natural gas orifices for LP orifices, did you also switch the appliance regulator over to LP? When you put in the orifices did you match up the proper size ones to each different size burner according to your owner's manual? They have #'s stamped on them to identify them and some are even color coded. Were you having any similar issues with your previous stove? If so, it may be a pressure problem. I can help you solve this problem with a little more information. Douglas

Hello- On modern gas cooktops and ranges when you turn on one burner ALL the burners will click, spark, until that burner is lit. I would ask if the other burners are lighting ok or do you have to use a match? Do you smell gas when all the burners are OFF? Feel free to reply and if you could provide the Model number of the unit that would be helpful. Best regards.

Hello,

The problem is too much gunk/dirk on the knob control switch, you will need to clean the knob control switch first and see if there is difference, if not, then replace all the knob switch. lift the lid of your cooktop up. Give it a rap with the heel of your hand if it's stuck. If your cooktop has sealed burners, identified by the igniter or little nub at the back of each burner, the lid wont shift. Lift the burner assembly off the support arm as you slide it away from the burner valve port. It just rests there. Remove the shipping screws if they're still in place and clean the switch knob one after the other, if the problem still persist after cleaning the switch knobs, it means they are worn out, replace them all.

Take care.

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am Kelly. On your cook-top the gas igniters are cycled on and off by a ceramic and copper switch on the front of each of the gas valves. Some of them are in wired Series ...i.e any burner on will cycle all igniters on the cook top and some of them are in Parallel where individual burners are controlled by each gas burner control knob. Inside these tiny ceramic switches there is a flat thin strip of copper that as the gas valve is rotated a cam of the switch actuates pushes the copper strip against the fixed contact. Those little strips over time either break or get bent and stay against the fixed contact. Hence you have and igniter on when the burner control is off. The only fix is to find out which little ceramic switch on the front of the gas valve is stuck. You do it with an Ohm meter POWER off. They all should read open with the burner controls off. The one that reads continuity across the 2 wires is the bad switch.

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Kelly

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Hi

There would be 2 nuts that you would need to remove. Spark module is screwed to the upper back of the oven on the right side. Use a nut driver to take out the screws from the upper back of the oven. Now you would see six wires - four to the burners and two to the power supply. Check for the four wires hooked to the igniters on the burner to the back of the burner. To remove the wires, just pull the connector off the spark module. Check out the schematic of the cook top---

GE JGP932 Kitchen Cooktop--


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Daniel

Hi,
Here is a tip that I wrote to help people troubleshoot problems with their cooktops not igniting.

Cooktop Range Stove spark ignition does not work
http://www.fixya.com/support/r5649407-cooktop_range_stove_spark_ignition_not

heatman101