20 Most Recent
GE GSS25LGP Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers
How to wire in new hard start
It's very simple to install a 3N1 Supco Hard Start Relay, Some refrigerators have a run capacitor located on compressor or mounted nearby. It will be important that you use the run capacitor in with the 3N1 Hard Start. Here is a Photo of the=> URCO810_3_N_1
The instructions come with the 3N1 Hard Start Relay. Can you please post the model number of your refrigerator here so I can look up a wiring diagram? Look around the fresh food section door frame for your model number. I do need to know so we can get the right run capacitor in the 3N1 hard start circuit, Thanks
Sea Breeze
Food freezing in refridgerator
Damper door that regulates amount of cold air into fridge side broken. Took mine apart last week tried to glue it, lasted for a few days. Currently trying to figure out part number so I can order another.
Freezer blower fan noise. Sounds
Hi, read about your request. All racks have to be removed Remove Icemaker. Remove auger assy. Remove covers top and bottom. Until you see motor. Remove screws and tip toward you until you can remove motor. Part number for motor is wr60x10185 $46.89. Hope this helps.
Freezer is not working
DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
Our side by side refrigerator when opened is hot
The fridge gets its cold air from the freezer through a vent(damper)
between the freezer and fridge.The fan in the freezer blows air through it.
Make sure this fan is running. You may have to hold the door switch in for it
to run. There is a flap you adjust with
the fridge temp. control. Make sure it's opening and closing when you adjust
the fridge temp.
The problem could be the electronic control if
you have one or the mechanical linkages.
If the evaporator coils behind the back panel of the freezer
are icing up because of auto defrost failure that will stop the circulation of
cold air and eventually affect the freezer too.
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
GE GSS25LGP SIDE-BY-SIDE WON'T FREEZE. NO FROST. FRIG SIDE OK.
When the door was left open, the t-stat burned itself out trying to adjust the temp. You will also need a new timer, too, as the timer burned out before the
t-stat went out. Give us a call at 972-859-0929 and we can make sure we get the right parts out to you right away! We look forward to working with you and hope to hear back from you real soon. :>)
For a GE refrigerator model GFSF6KEX, how do you remove the ice tray? (Not the freezer drawer, just the tray.)
To remove the ice tray from your GE refrigerator model GFSF6KEX, follow these steps:
Empty the Ice: Before removing the ice tray, empty it of any ice cubes. This will make it easier to handle.
Locate the Ice Tray: The ice tray is typically located in the freezer compartment, usually near the ice dispenser or ice maker.
Grasp the Bottom Edge: Stand in front of the freezer and open the door. Grasp the bottom edge of the ice tray on the sides. Be cautious not to place your fingers near the opening at the bottom front part of the bucket where the crusher blades are located.
Lift Up the Front: Lift up on the front of the ice tray so that it clears the stops on the ice bucket rail.
Pull the Tray Forward: Pull the ice tray forward and out of the freezer compartment.
Reinstalling the Tray: To reinstall the ice tray, follow these steps:
Line up the flange pieces on the sides of the tray with the channels in the ice bucket rails.
As you push the ice tray all the way back, lift the front of the tray so that it clears the stops on the front of the ice bucket rails.
Verify that the tray is properly inserted by pulling it forward. It should hit the stops on the rail and not come out. If it does, push the tray further back.
Check for Misalignment: If you're unable to push the ice tray all the way back, it might be due to a misalignment between the back of the auger (located in the tray) and the prongs on the auger motor (mounted in the back freezer wall). To fix this:
Remove the ice tray.
Close the freezer door.
Press the dispenser for cubed or crushed ice; you should hear a snap.
Open the door again and reinstall the ice tray.
Remember to handle the ice tray carefully, especially if it's full of ice.
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