Top 20 GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator Questions & Answers

no shouldn't have to do this,are you installing part WR51X10101 heater?if so have you ever had to replace the motor board?do this when you're in the freezer go on top of the evaporator coil,look at the sensor or thermistor same thing,it looks like a white bullet part wr55x10025,look at it,if it has a black ring around it you have to change it,ge had problems with these thermistors,also everything on this fridge runs through the mother board open up the back cover and look at the board if you don't have 7 black relays in the board you have to get the newest board in there,this could be taking out your heater, board part wr55x10942p go here look at picture,if you don't have all the relays on left bottom side get a new board if sensor has black ring replace that too.i've never had to replace a heater again on a fridge and not that soon,make sure no wires are shorting out anywhere that could take out the heater https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/Control-Board/WR55X10942P/4512753?replacedManufacturerPartNumber=wr55x10942 also i have a diagram of the board it shows you what's on the board if you look at j11 and j9 these are the connections for the defrost heater,the j8 is for compressor so if you jump out j9 and j11 the heater will come on and no compressor with the gray wire connector removed from the board. https://www.flickr.com/photos/zenzoidman/4482598198/sizes/o/in/photostream/ and i have another site that shows you everything about the board that's very helpful https://www.scribd.com/document/243353634/GE-Electronic-Refrigerator-AC-Diagnostics-Manual if your board is the older board i would call ge first,tell them what's been happening and i've seen them send parts to people for free or short money,it's worth a call all they can say is no we can't help you or they could help you out, i'd call.can you do me a favor i've answered a few peoples questions and haven't heard back from them only like 2 people out of like 50 can you just let me know you got this and let me know how you make out thanks and i hope this helps you out.that ge diagnostics manual shows you alot of good stuff.make sure all the wires are in good shape that go to the heater,change out the thermistor also there's a t-stat on top of coil i would change out the t-stat and thermistor if something is bad it could be keeping the heater on longer than it should be and short living it,any wire connections that you have cover them with sealant if you have wire connectors anywhere in there put sealant in there so no water can get into wires and check the board.good luck hope this helps you.

Best temperature for frig. is 40-45degrees F.

Most likely you need to replace the water valve first try running at least a gallon water through it to flush it out if that doesn't work new valve is needed

try changing your thermostat

Check the heater coil in rear of freezer. Mine was burned out. Letting ice build up on the cooling fins. Replaced with new type double heater coil and fixed proble. You'll have to remove the cover off rear wall of freezer section to access it.

No but a defective defrost system, defective evaporator fan or lack of Freon will cause ice to form on the rear panel of the freezer. The most likely cause will be a defrost system component. If the model number above your post is correct the item listed as location 230 and 240 Click=> HERE are the WR51X10101Defrost Heater Assemblyor the WR50X10068 Defrost Thermostat Is the model number on your post correct? I am here should you need me, Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911

the red light in the back of the freezer is the defrost heater doing its job. the "water is hitting the coal" that's the defrosted ice dripping on the defrost heater. there is no problem if the refrigerator is keeping temperature. do not look for problems if there aren't any :-)

Defrost on most units works like this. An electric wire heater is embedded in the cooling coil where the air is cooled. A timer periodically shuts off the refrigerator and turns on this electric heater coil which melts the frost off the coil. The water from this defrost collect s in a trough below the coil and drains down thru tubes into a shallow plastic tray under the unit. The water does not collect there but is evaporated over time by the hot air that blows over top of the water by the fan that comes back on when the refrigerator returns to cooling cycle. This is the fan that sucks air from the room over the condenser coil under the fridge to make the refrigeration work. The air is warm after passing over the condenser coil and then the air passes over the water tray. You can feel the warm air returning back into the room if you out your hand down near the floor.

To Change Temperature Control Setting with Touch Pads: • Freezer setting is on the left side of the display. • Fresh Food setting is on the right side of the display. - Press the warmer or colder pad for compartment and direction desired. - Present control setting number will illuminate. - Each time the pad is touched, compartment setting changes one number. A display of 1 is warmest and 9 is the coldest setting. NOTE: Setting the controls to the 0 (off) position does not remove power to the light circuit. Control settings will vary based on personal preferences, usage and operating conditions and may require more than one adjustment.

-Don't have to.-Any nut to hold the fan...? If so the nut might be loose. Or the fan blade bend.Mai

A lot of the GE Ice Makers are electronic and almost not worth the chance of trying to fix because of the cost and difficulty to repair. I will post a repair manual HERE but I will say it will be better to replace the ice maker and go with a new replacement. Your GE Refrigerator model GSS201EP takes a WR30X10093 Ice Maker or WR30X10093 Ice Maker I am here if you have questions, Sea Breeze

You will need to replace the filter. Here is the part to order.

The filter has to be primed. Keep the water dispensing till the air gets out the system. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

you have a bad computer board located on the back outside wall,part number wr55x10942.everything runs through the board,sometimes you'll notice that the fans aren't running correctly too.unplug the machine,remove the cover,you'll need a pair of needlenose plyers,there are 4 white plastic pins that hold the board in place,pich in the tab on the pin and pull on the corner of the board,pull off the wire harnesses and plug them back in the same connectors then ground it with one of the screws.go here 801 is your part and this is your problemhttp://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Refrigerator-Parts/Model-GSS20IEPCCC/0432/0165000/G3090022/00008?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

Click this link http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/G3090022-00001.png this is the schematic to the freezer door area broken down piece by piece you first would disconnect the line from the quick connect on the bottom by unscrewing the upper and lower hinge as well which will provide you with adequate room to work. You would then disconnect the tubing on the door from the bezel panel. There are not to many that do replace this when it is inside of the door it is a difficult task but can be done using high tensil strength fishing line and some duct tape as well. You would feed the line in from where the unit dispenses water working backwards and eventually coming out the bottom. If there is not enough of the old tubing or it is not strong enough to be moved on the inside of the cabinet it would become a nightmare task to try and restring the tubing although I have also seen where technicians use a smaller line to go on the inside of the old line as well. On few occasions I have also seen some technicians use an electricians snake to pull the new tubing through the door. There is no easy take apart way to do this task. If you have any further questions message me back.Thank youRick

HI THIS SOUNDS LIKE YOUR VALVE IS AT FAULT.CHECK THAT FIRST AND SUPPLY TO IT;THEN MICROSWITCH/C/BOARD.HOPE THIS HELPS ALI

How To Replace the Compressor Relay The compressor relay is accessed from the lower rear of the refrigerator. The compressor relay is located in the terminal box which on the side of the compressor.
Before replacing the compressor relay, unplug the refrigerator to avoid an electrical shock hazard. Also, if the compressor uses a capacitor, it must be discharged.
The compressor relay can be accessed by removing the terminal cover box. The cover is held on by tension or with a retaining clip.


Beneath the terminal cover is found the compressor relay (labeled "A" below), overload protector (labeled "B") and the electrical terminals of the compressor motor.


Remove the compressor relay by pulling it straight off from the compressor.

Pull the wire off of the side terminal of the relay. It is connected with a slip on connector. Firmly pull the connector, do not pull on the wire. You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers.
Inspect the connector for corrosion. If it is corroded it should be cleaned or replaced
Reattach the wire to the new compressor relay and press the relay back onto the compressor terminals. Replace the terminal cover box and plug in the refrigerator.

Hello,

The most probable thing that will cause the frrezer to work is a failure of one of the components of the automatic defrost system. Do you see frost built up on the back wall of the freezer?? if yes their is frost build up on the freezer wall it is a defrost failure and this tip i wrote will tell ya what to check to see why its not automatically defrosting.

http://www.fixya.com/support/r10097882-wrong_when_freezer_frosted_refrig_warm


GENE