20 Most Recent GE GSS20IEP Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 8 Questions & Answers

Hi,
As the weather is getting warmer for many people their freezer and/or refrigerator do not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...

Check out this tip that I wrote about that... it is a great place to start trouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then calling a repair person to do a simple thing for you...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4024657-refrigerator_condenser_coil_cleaning


http://www.fixya.com/support/r3885294-refrigerator_troubleshooting

http://www.fixya.com/support/r4023749-refrigerator_compressor_start_capacitor

heatman101

let compressor cool down,before plugging back in

Hi and welcome to FixYa. I am sure you have realized this already but the temperature control is ability failing. Most likely the thermistor

(item 242 this link)

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/partsearch/model.aspx?model_id=5130671&diagram_id=22223829#d22223829

is weak now and is not supplying the varied reistance input to the encoder board as the temperature changes like it used to.

It can also be the encoder board (Item 424 of above link)

Either of these components can cause your problem.

Thanks for using FiXya.

Kelly

This is due to a defrost issue.

What happens is, your coil will freeze up, blocking the airflow into your fresh food side, this making it warm in there. This also makes your freezer side, not cool properly either, because the air cannot circulate around as well. This may be your control board on the back of the unit, as it several relays that control all the function of your unit. This could also be a bad heater and Bi-metal.


What you'll need to do, is open the freezer, remove the the racks, and then remove the back panel of the freezer, be sure to unplug the unit first. Get yourself a hair dryer, set on medium, not to high, it could melt your plastic on the sides of your machine. You'll need to melt the ice off your coil, once this is melted, the unit will temporarily work, until it starts to freeze back up. Once your in there, you can check the heater, with a multi-meter, to see if it has continuity to it, or to see if its broke, as its a glass heater. If the heater is fine, (not broke, and has continuity). You are looking at replacing the main control board, which sits on the back of the unit, freezer side.

Hi,

We have a Kitchen Aid that did the same thing. It could be that the reservoir tank is frozen or it could be that the line is frozen. We called Kitchen Aid, our fridge is under warranty, and they installed a freez kit over the tank and that solved the problem. The tank might be behind the vegetable trays on your fridge. What brand do you have?

It should take (4 to 6 hours) as long as a new one would. But I would give if 24 - 36 hours cause by then if it dont then there is a problem somewhere.

something in auto defrost circuit has failed heater, timer,defrost thermostat,wiring call for repair

have you replaced the ptc overload relay on the compressor,they get weak and can't supply full power to the compressor and the compressor will sound as if its running but its not and will overheat and burn-out the run windings after prolonged operation like this

Does the freezer / fridge door close good? Check the hinges. Also check the seal and the amount of food stuff you may have close to the door. If you have an ice maker make sure you have it secured inside the freezer section.

It sounds like something is keeping the freezer door open or from closing good.

Sound like a drop of air and moisture has entered your system. When freezer springs a leak for first time and the refrigerator stops running because the temperature is correct the Freon pressure increases letting Freon out then when thermostat ask for colder the compressor suction goes negative and pulls air and moisture into system. Moist then becomes ice crystals as they flow through the capillary tube blocking it completely untilil compressor can restart and the cycle goes on. How was that? Need help let me know, Thanks, Sea Breeze

It is likely that the water lines to the ice maker or the dispensing unit is frozen somewhere.

First be sure that the ice maker switch is in the Down or On position. If it is you can simple try unplugging the unit for a few hours then plugging it back in to see if that clears up the problem. No need to worry about your food, try and keep the refrigerator door closed as much as possible though.
Also look in your Manual under "Trouble Shooting" for possible solution.

This link will take you to GE and a viewable operating manual. Check page 6 for control setting. The manual says to start frig and freezer at the 5 setting and check after 12 hous to see if the temp is correct. Using a thermometer will help to reach the desired temp.
http://products.geappliances.com/MarketingObjectRetrieval/Dispatcher?RequestType=PDF&Name=49-60458.PDF

Remove dispenser bucket, icemaker,dispenser motor assembly,then remove the duct that covers the fan. The blade can be removed by pulling straight up off the motor shaft. the new blade just pushes dowm on motor shaft.

Setting the cooling setting up all the way will not help at all.Make sure your freezer and refrigerator controls are about the same setting. Temp. settings for refrigerator should be between 38-42.degree at medium.. Freezer about 0 to -10.If it is a simple fix this will help.

Your refrigerator separates the water control into two parts. One side for water and the other side for dispenser. Have someone unplug the dispenser side and test for 120 volts at the female plug disconnected to the dispenser side while someone presses dispense water. You should show the voltage. Another way of testing to OHM both coils and see is open. shorted or almost same measurement of OHMs The part number for the water control valve is Click Here=> WR57X10032 If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com Thanks, Sea Breeze

Check for frost on back wall of freezer if there is frost you have a defrost problem

HI. There are two causes here, in this situation. The most common will be a faulty defrost timer, or adaptive defrost control board. The defrost mechanism will vary form unit to unit. Most newer units will be equipped with an defrost control board. This will be located in the control housing, just above the heat shield, in the upper right had side. Older models will have a standard defrost timer mechanism. If this device fails, the evaporator heater Assembly will not receive the command to defrost the coil, on time. The easiest way to isolate the cause, will be to test the heater element. If the element is functional, the defrost timer/board, will eb the culprit.

Defrost heater assembly test procedure:

The defrost heater is usually located at the back of a side by side freezer or under the floor of a top freezer. It will be necessary to remove obstructions such as the contents of the freezer, freezer shelves, ice-maker and the inside rear or bottom panel of the freezer, to access.

The panel may be held in place by retainer clips or screws. Remove the screws or depress the retainer clips with a small screwdriver. On some older top freezers it is necessary to remove the plastic molding to access the freezer floor. Removal of that molding can be tricky, so try not to force it, if possible. If you decide to remove it, you do so at your own risk. it will break, if forced. Warm it first with a warm towel, or hair dryer, set to low heat.

There are three primary types of defrost heater elements; exposed metal rod, metal rod covered with aluminum tape or a wire coil inside a glass tube. All three elements are tested in the same way.

The heater is connected by two wires. The wires are connected with slip on connectors. Firmly pull the connectors off of the terminals (do not pull on the wire). You may need to use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the connectors. Inspect the connectors and the terminals for corrosion. If the connectors are corroded they should be replaced.

Test the heating element for continuity using a multimeter. Set the multimeter to the ohms setting X1. Place a probe on each terminal. The multimeter should display a reading somewhere between zero and infinity. Because of the number of different elements we cannot tell what your reading should be, but we can be certain of what it shouldn't be. If the reading is zero or infinity the heating element is definitely faulty, and should be replaced.

Is this a frost free model ? Could be ice buildup near the fan
Try a thorough defrost with the doors open for say 24 hrs

You models has a tubing coil as a water tank. Once you changed the filter air bubbles remained in the system. Slow leaks or drips from the water dispenser can be the result of air trapped in the water line and will usually occur just after replacing a water filter. When the filter is changed, a large amount of air enters the system and needs to be removed by running water from the dispenser until all the air pockets are gone. Another reason is the water valve itself may not be sealing when closed allowing water pressure from the supply like to work its way into the dispenser water line. This is a less likely reason, but you should be aware of this possibility when diagnosing your own problem. Thanks, Sea Breeze