20 Most Recent GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by Side Refrigerator - Page 5 Questions & Answers

This is a difficult task you would need the tech sheet and check the voltages on the board , compare them to the tech sheet

James, not sure I understand your message when you say both lights go off, but later say lights begin working. Do you mean they go off when you push the buttons at the door? And when you say no cold air comes from the freezer, is the freezer door closed? See if air begins flowing with freezer door open. If so it would indicate the return air path from the refrigerator to freezer is blocked.....damper staying closed or evaporator coil frozen up. The return air path has to be open to allow the freezer to keep sending out cold air to refrigerator when freezer door is closed. You might thoroughly defrost to make sure coil is not frozen. If the door button for the refrigerator light is bad it can signal that the door is open all the time, so the freezer will never send cold air to the refrigerator. And that will be good news. Door switches are cheap. If you don't have a volt meter and know how to check switch, just remove the door switch from the refrigerator, leaving wires dangling, and close the door with a thermometer inside to see if it begins cooling (or just wait a while) I had that problem a year ago and was happy to find a bad door switch. More often it's a frozen coil, and that can be more expensive to fix. Sometimes you can discover a bad switch by pushing in the door button and the light stays on, but it doesn't sound like your situation.....sounds more like a frozen coil. If so, maybe all this extra information will help someone else.

this icemaker has no servicible parts and needs to be replaced.

I assume this refrigerator was working. The sporadic water dispensing is usually a dirty water filter or air in the waterline;but after pulling off the kick board and cleaning,assuming again, the water connector, everything stopped working on the door. At the refrigerator door bottom near the bottom hinge there should be an electrical connector(s) This makes me think you may have dislodged or loosened the connections. This powers everything on the door. The dispenser may be in "locked".To reset, press and hold lock control for 3 seconds. Another thing to try, if these don't work, is to unplug refrigerator for about 20 seconds, then plug it back in. Electronics sometimes get lost and this will often reset them. And good luck, Ron L.

check Freon.check compressor is running.

I think you've answered your own question! Yes, if the defroster heater went out and the whole freezer iced up, there well could have been moisture collect in and/or around the drive unit, and when the freezer started working properly the unit froze and stopped. As big of a pain it is, I would remove all the food from the fridge, and then run a small FAN into the freezer box. A heater would thaw the unit, but a fan will thaw it AND carry out any built-up moisture. Since everything is rather covered and hidden, I would let the fan run at least 24 hours, to completely dry everything bone dry. If that does not allow it to return to normal function, then the the unit is likely munched. YouTube has a couple of really good step-by-step videos on removing that particular ice-maker and replacing the various components of it, and there are parts lists and repair manuals online if you Google. Once you find which part you need, the part number is all you need to find the part at the best price (usually Amazon!) Best of luck!

First, if the compressor doesn't run, it'll never get cold. You didn't say if it ran or not. The defrost circuit is *designed* to cut the compressor out of the circuit during the 2 - 3 times (8 to 12 hour intervals) each day it goes into defrost mode. The compressor will remain off until the defrost temperature sensor (hidden in the freezer section) reaches 50 degrees (or so) *OR* for 20 to 25 minutes each time the defrost timer cycles on. If it is stuck in defrost mode because it failed to advance due to a bad clock motor or because of bad contacts, it will *prevent* the compressor circuit from ever being energized. Check into this circuit and the location of this timer for your particular fridge. You should not need to worry about the defrost terminator, thermistor, sensor, heater or anything else in the *defrost circuit* at this time to get the compressor running. I hope this helps & good luck!

Hi Steven, Sensor / thermostat problem.need to replace. regards, nuwan.