Since you say that it still cools, you need to start out with a thorough cleaning of the condenser grill. If it the air flow is blocked or the condenser grill is extremely dirty or clogged with pet hair, then the unit won't be able to dispel the heat buildup cause by the coolant running through the compressor.I have found that if you use an air compressor blowing from the rear and a vacuum from the front works pretty good.
If your lights go dim when you try to dispense ice or water it is most likely the main control board BUT IT CAN BE A CHEAP FIX! Behind a plate on the lower back of the refrigerator there is a large plate that has the main control board under it. There are two identical capacitors marked 470uf 25volt by the small transformer. If you see that the tops of these are pushed up AT ALL on top THAT is your problem. Use de-soldering wick and a soldering iron to remove them then replace them with 470uf 50volt capacitors and your problem is solved. Be sure to observe polarity on the capacitors. $2 permanent fix.
The issue is with length of the filter and the space behind the filter allowing it to bend.
Along with many people we put a lot of things in our frig. When you jam things into your frig they can hit the filter causing it to bend towards the back of the frig. The long filter becomes a lever putting extra force on the plastic threads on the filter causing them to crack and leak.
Luckly we noticed our leak early and did not have a big leak into the floor below. But when I was removing items from the frig to get to the filter we had just bought two big gallons of milk and one was jammed into the filter.
You can try to remember to not put to much on that side, but within a month you will for get. Best thing to do until GE comes up with a better filter is to tape a wedge to the filter that fills the space between the filter and the back of the frig. That way if you jam a big gallon milk into the filter it will not bend and crack.
OK no doubt you changed the defrost timer but the PSS26MSRSS uses a motherboard to decide when to defrost. You must have a different model than the one listed. I will help you if you like so click here to search=> Appliance Model Number Locations if your model is the model listed here I will be totally shocked. Ethier way I am here to help so don't give up. If need you may contact me here on Fixya or my Forum=> Appliance 911 My contact information is located above the Fixya Ad on my blog here=> Sea Breeze Appliance Parts and Technical Services, www.pcappliancerepair.com Thanks, Sea Breeze
I suspect by your description the fridge either has a faulty overload protector again or the compressor itself is seized. If you feel like you can trouble shoot further I`ll try to assist you or you may decide to call a professional appliance technician.
If you have a multi-meter capable of voltage readings you can check see if the control is sending power to the compressor and subsequently to the condensor fan then on the continuity/ohm setting the compressor to see if the windings are ok.
**First, Unplug the fridge**
This part should be pretty easy since you've done this part before...Remove the panel at the back down at the bottom. This should gain you access to the compressor.
On the side of the compressor with the start relay/overload assembly such as this image... Pull off the relay & overload and you'll see 3 pins in the form of a triangle...
With a meter measure between any 2 pins at one time, going between each pin with one remaining on a "common" pin.
You'll want 3 measurement's, similar to this example- 6ohms, 3ohms, and 9ohms.
On some meters you may simply get a reading of "0" ohms, as long as the needle moves off of "infinity" which would indicate an "open" winding=not good !
If following that, the readings are good, purchase a hard start kit. Part # HS410 also known as a 3in1 starter kit.
i.e.
The above package contains info and hardware on how to connect it. **NOTE : the HS410 ( 3 in 1 ) should be considered just a temporary "fix" as opposed to an actual "repair" you should not rely on this for long term reliability or safety, but rather consider the compressor is on it way out unfortunately...but the hard start may by you some time. Hope that help`s move you forward if nothing else. If so please take a second and rate the reply and a testimony to your inquiry you received here at FixYa.
The defrost system activates a defrost heater in the evaporator section at the rear of freezer. This heater melts frost off the evaporator coils and then turns off.
The defrost circuit and the evaporator fan motor. The defrost circuit includes the main circuit board, the defrost heater, and the defrost heater safety.
Try diagnosing this problem by : At the bottom of the freezer door ( remove the kick plate ) , there will be a water line . Follow this line , about 6 " to a connector . Push in on the white ring and pull out the line , at the same time . Activate the water dispensor pad and see if water flows from the line under the refrig . If it does , then the line in the door is frozen . Either raise the freezer temp for several days , so the line in the door will thaw , or , I have heard using an air tank will blow the ice out of the line in the door . If no water comes from the line under the refrig , while activating the pad , then replace the water valve , behind the refrig , the piece the wall water line connects to on the refrig . There is also a heater kit for the water dispensor , pt # WR49X10173 , which comes with instructions .
I had the same problem with my GE GSS25LGMB and after some googling I learned that the damper door might be broken. Indeed after I took off the damper assembly the door appeared to be broken at the hinge. This door has its own thermostat and controls the influx of cold air into the fridge which explains the frozen food. I am trying to glue the broken piece back on. See if it works. Othwersie you'll have to replace the entire damper assembly which costs about $91. (http://www.pcappliancerepair.com/cgi-bin/detail.cgi?item=WR49X10091&brand=GEH)
More than likely, your water line is freezing up in the door. You can remove all of the ice cubes and lower the freezer temp to about 3. Leave the freezer door open for about 5 minutes or so and if this does not work, leave the door open a little longer. Also, disconnect the water line at the base of the freezer door, near the floor, and press the dispenser lever. If you have water there, you most likely have a frozen line in the door. Changing the water filter often will help but it is not the answer and is can get quite expensive. By the way, Make sure to hold the dispenser lever forward for at least a couple of minutes each time you test for water flow. If you do not get water at the connector at the base of the door after you have disconnected the line, you have a problem with the valve in the back of the refrigerator.
There is no on/off switch for this model, simply unplug the frig. Some models have a switch for the ice maker, but not the frig itself. If it's a vacation thing you can turn the thermostat up, but your frig could have a musky smell upon returning.
Your GE frig water and ice filter does not have a number, MWF is the type of filter that fits your refrigerator. There is also a MWFP filter that traps even more particulates (pharmaceuticals) but the MWF works just fine. About $35 at Home Depot where they sell appliances.
The water dispenser tube is getting leaked form in between or its got loose from its actual line.Inspect water dispenser tube from water valve to the end of where the water is getting dispensed.
Before going to buy any parts
directly.
Go through this troubleshooting help links.
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This is list of refrigerator problems,
which is normally faced in refrigerator.
You can go through the details, by clicking the link below:---
