Top 20 GE Profile JT952 Electric Double Oven Questions & Answers

User manual says that the oven must cool off. I am sure this is not the case. Try starting the oven self clean function, and then clear/off to stop the function. Since the oven is cool, perhaps the oven will unlock. Finally, you could try turning off the circuit breaker and then back on to see if it unlocks - unfortunately you will have to reprogram everything. All else fails, call a technician. http://www.manualslib.com/download/58340/Ge-Jt912-Jt952.html

It does sound like the element may be bad. The control will cycle the bake and broil elements to even the heat in the oven. if the element is out the oven won't heat well.

Try to unplug if this just happened once

Hello would need the entire model number as you can see by this link there are 32 models of that oven http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/JT952?searchModPar=JT952&pathTaken=modelSearch&prst=0&shdMod=JT952

you can either message me back and I will then pick which is your unit then you would go under door schematic and it would bring up the diagram for your unit which when you clicked on door it would being you to this blown up view of the door this is an example http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/GE-Parts/Wall-oven-Parts/Model-JT952BF7BB/0432/0125300/G0510389/00005?blt=06&prst=&shdMod= and if you scrolled down to like on this schematic has the outer door glass shown as number 140 in the diagram and then underneath that it would give the part number such as it does for this one being
PART NUMBER: WB57T10259 if you have any further questions or would like me to look your model up further please message me back with the complete model number Thanks Rick

Hello & Welcome to FixYa

F3 error code indicates a open/shorted oven temperature sensor and to solve this problem the sensor needs replacement. If you wan to be sure before replacing the sensor then you can test it with a voltmeter for around 1100ohms....if it reads more then this then it needs replacement however, if the reading is around or less then 1100ohms then it is the control board that needs replacement. Please get back to me if you have any other questions.

Kevin

Click this link to obtain your manual http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/owner_manuals/4884/GE-Built-In-Oven-Electric-L0502248?brand_name_search=JT952SK2SS if you have any further questions or are unable to obtain your manual through this link message me back and Thanks again for using Fixya
Rick
p.s by clicking this link you will be able to download your manual for free just click where it says download above the document where it says click here to download Thanks again

Check your breaker box to make sure the breakers are ON.. these typically are double throw breakers.. it is possible one of them has been thrown open.. so flip that double throw off and back on.. then check..I have seen one side of these breakers fail.. unusual.. but it happens.. then a replacement is in order.. regardless. visually it may appear the breaker is closed..but upon closer inspection.. one side may be "spongy/open". There are always exceptions..so examine the breaker box carefully.

If one breaker is open..it would be wise to keep an eye on things to determine how it got that way in the first place. If the breaker will not close or throws/pops again..you either have a bad breaker or a wiring problem..in some cases the element may have grounded out..or burned a wire.. etc.

Next thing to check for is a bad element.. Remember..this is a 220volt hot circuit with a high amperage breaker.. BE CAREFUL.. USE CAUTION.. Failure to do so could result in serious injure or DEATH.

Turn off power at the breaker box to the oven.. test the working over to make sure the power is OFF.

Remove the oven racks
Remove the screws at the base of the element

Pull the element toward you

Note how the wire(s) are connected

Disconnect the wires.. checking for broken or lose terminals..if lose or broken..repair.

You will need a volt ohm meter for the following..

Test the Element for continuity. Place each probe on the terminal ends (manual will have ratings) generally if you have continuity it probably works..

Test for a grounded/short.. one probe to element the other to terminal end..if you have continuity.. it's shorted out. Test both terminals

Replace with a new one if needed.. reverse procedure. Turn on the power .. and test for proper operation.

Again.. 220 VOLTS..HIGH AMPERAGE.. USE CAUTION..not doing so could result in injury or DEATH

After you have done the above..and get an all pass..then it's on to controllers and temp sensors.

Best of luck

i don't think so. the oven's tempt control is ( the clock and it controls both ovens.) there is a sensor in each oven and they tell the clock what is going on it each oven. if both oven are not correct in there tempt you could replace the sensors first and then the clock. now if cost is a factor I would replace the top oven sensor first and see if it corrects the problem . and if so repl the bottom . and if the first sensor does not correct problem then you need the clock.( e o c ..electronic oven control .) this will not be a cheep repair . sensors are 70.20 ea and the clock 201.60 == hope this has helped mm feed back pls . part # of sensor wb23x5340 and clock wb27t10287 //

Hi

Thanks for using FixYa. F9 error in your oven/range indicates an issue with the door locks assembly and/or the door latch. To start with check the door lock circuit, you can also try to jump start it to see if it's working. If it's not working then the Electronic Range control has gone bad and should be replaced, if it is working then the door lock circuit should be replaced. Please do rate the solution if the issue is resolved or post a comment for further assistance.

Thanks
Rylee

you can google your oven model for its codes. on our maytag oven the F1 code means defective touch pad or control board.

google your model number for the technical specs for your oven

Unplug the unit or shut off the circuit breaker for 5 minutes. Plug the unit back in or turn on the circuit breaker. Set the clock and gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
or
Set the self-clean cycle again and only allow it to work for 15 minutes. Cancel the self-clean cycle and allow the oven to cool. Gently try moving the door lock lever (is so equipped) or opening the door.
If these procedures fail to correct the condition, the lock must usually be accessed and moved manually to open the door.
Some model ovens require the oven door to be manually unlatched before the controls are returned to the OFF position or else the door may not be able to be unlocked. Check the owner's manual for proper operating procedures.

I need oven probe instruction and oven conversion time with the convection oven for cooking a forty pound turkey.

It is easy to remove the guard and spin the fan, see if it feels like it might be a bit stiff. If the fan has no continuity between the 2 terminals then replacement is imminent. If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

bake element do pop when they burn out and some will act like a sparkler and burn and burn .. I would look for a bad spot in the element of the oven that you wer heating . mm

How to explain this? your new drop in unit will require a 220v circuit capable of a specified amount of amps. Typically 40, 50 or 60. Should be noted in the manual and on the unit itself. If your original oven and cooktop were electric, then each one was probably hooked up to a 220v circuit. The problem is figuring out how many amps were supplied for each. The simplest way is the go to the panel and find the breaker for the old oven and cooktop and read the numbers (or amps) on the on/off switch. If either breaker has a number the same or greater then the drop in unit says it requires, then your all set. If the drop in unit says it requires 52amps and one of the breakers says 60 on it, your fine. If the drop in unit says it requires 44amps and the breakers are 30 or 40, then you got a problem. Usually a breaker is installed that is the maximum amps allowed for the size (thickness) of the wire connected to it. You CANNOT connected a 50a breaker to wire only rated for 40a. Note the size difference of wire connected to a 20a breaker with wire connected to 40a breaker. If the drop in unit requires more amps then the original units used, then a larger wire will need to be ran from the panel to the drop in unit (Not cheap). Now if the original oven used a 30a and the original cooktop used a 30a, then its possible ( 80% of electricians wouldn't do it because of liability problems) to use both wires together to create 60amps, but both wires (actually a total of 6 wires, 2-120v wires and 1 ground wire from each outlet) would need to be in the same outlet box for the drop in unit connection.. I could (and probably should) try to explain more, but I'de probably just confuse you more. GOOD LUCK!

HI. This is a basic communication issue that will concern, either the control board, or touch/Key pad assembly. Normally, this will produce a stuck key, which will cause one of the power relays to become suspended.

Determine if The problem is with the Key Panel or Control by:

1. Pushing CLEAR/OFF pad.
2. Disconnecting the key pad Ribbon Cable from control(main), and waiting at least 32 seconds to see if Code recurs

If code recurs, problem is in the control. Replace control.

If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel.

NOTE_ Some models incorporate the touch/Key pad into the EOC as a single assembly(Whole device), in which case this test is not necessary. Simply replace the EOC (Clock).

The only way to get this panel to light up is to replace it. Once it goes out, it's out for good.

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We look forward to working with you.