Top 20 GE JVM1850 1000 Watts Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Magnetron is blown. This high-energy microwave-transmitting device hides behind a small plate on side of oven. The waveguide sticky-out part looks like a small tube. Normally, water molecules absorb the energy, heating the food. Without an absorbing 'load' inside the oven cavity, the high-frequency, high power energy bounces back into the magnetron and it destroys itself. (Magnetron Hari-Kiri). In a nutshell, tech must renew magnetron. Then iInstruct family members to never run it empty.

if you like your micro fixe it, becouse even do new micros look better when it comes to work they suck they hardly last the warranty period thats if you are lucky...

My GE JVM1850 microwave turns on when you open the door and when the door is shut and you try to put in a time and hit start it blows the breaker

That's really odd. I don't believe I've heard of that one before.I would suspect the problem is on your control board, which in most can be repaired simply and inexpensively. A YouTube video showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes, is here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

If the inside light, cooling fan, and turntable all come on when you press "Start" to cook, but it does not heat, then you have a defective high voltage section part (HV fuse, magnetron, etc.)If the above 3 components do not all come on when you try to cook, then it\'s probably just a bad bottom door switch or mount.My help file on door switches is here.Thereshould be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unitbehind thecontrol panel which isvery helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locatingcomponents.Atwe have a videoavailable showing how to remove a typicalover the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.This additional disassembly information may apply:Be sure the oven is unplugged.There are two Phillips head screws on the very top of the outside of the cabinet above the vent.When they\'re removed, slide the hood vent grille to the left about 1/4", then then pull it forward.(There are three L-shaped clips that fit into a slot to hold bottom of the vent)Then remove one screw (which holds the control panel in place) near the top of the control panel.Once that screw is removed the panel tilts out so you can disconnect the wires and then slip it out.Be sure to mark and/or photograph your wires so that each one gets back exactly where it was after the repair.Reassembly is accomplished by sliding the L-shaped keepers in place, then sliding the vent grill to the right and pushing it into place.You can findhelpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your fullmodel number from the tag on the oven here.We\'re happyto help you with free advice and we\'d appreciate your thoughtful ratingof our answer.

It all depends on your model number of course, but if JUST the turntable is failing, it may just be a defective turntable motor or coupler.If your internal cooling fan and/or inside / cavity light is defective, too, it may be the internal fan motor, a door switch, or a relay on the control board.We repair those and can offer more free advice with the full model number and a little bit more detail about what's working, what's not, and when.You can find handy exploded views and order parts by model number here.

see the next steps. God bless youa stuck key or non-responsive key, most of the time you will have to replace the keypad for this microwave oven repair. If your keypad is connected to your control board by a flat ribbon wire, try disconnecting it and clean the silver contacts with an ordinary pencil eraser. After cleaning, plug it back in and try it. If it doesn't fix it, replace the keypad unit. Some units actually have keypad tests to confirm your diagnosis of a bad key.If your keypad and control is the same unit, replace that unit. Another note, unlike stove/oven keypads and controls, most microwaves do not have error codes or tests to distinguish whether it is truely the keypad or control. Most of the time, it is the keypad that needs replacing, but a small percentage of the time it can be the control. Check the tech sheet if they can point you to the right part.

Check the door switches with digital meter, usually find one bad one. Set meter to ohms and test, some will be normally open and others closed, check with the door open and closed.

You are correct about the upper switch if normally open resistance infinity, but when switch is depressed resistance should read near 0 ohms, you need to change the door switch. Now the high voltage diode cannot be checked with a digital meter because the bias is to high, chances are it is okay.

If you know DMM then only you can fix it. Check magnetron continuity and the transformer continuity. Mostly magnetron blows up. Danger microwave has 5000 volts in it Thanks Discharge capacitors

Remove the power plug and Allow the voltage present on the board to drain OFF. After an hour please recheck and if the beep still stays there is fault in the motherboard. Possible that the beeper driver is short and is continuous. If all the other functions are working without any issues, all you can do is to cut off the beeper connection if you are able to remove the board and snip off . Attempt with power plug removed .

Hello,Investigate these three areas if your microwave won't heatPower DiodeA diode is an electronic component that readily passes current in one direction only and blocks the flow of current in the opposing direction. If your microwave's diode has become defective, your microwave will not heat. Test the diode to determine if this is the cause of your problem. Replace it if it is defective.Testing a diodeNOTE: Before you test your diode, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you discharge the microwave's capacitor.Whether it is shorted or open, a defective diode will most likely show some sign of defect. Defective diodes will usually emit an electrical burning smell, signifying its defectiveness. Also, it may have split in two, or it may exhibit a burned crack, or possibly even a blistered spot.A shorted diode is indicated by a loud humming noise from the high voltage transformer, and no heat produced when a cook cycle is initiated. Whereas little or no heat produced in your microwave, with an absence of a humming noise is indicative of an open diode. In either case, the diode has to be replaced.With your microwave unplugged, and your capacitor discharged, use extreme caution to remove the lead that leads to the capacitor. You can leave the ground connection attached. The side of the diode that goes to the ground is usually marked with a dot, stripe, or arrow. Set your ohmmeter to R x 10,000 or higher. Touch the positive meter probe to the anode and the negative meter probe to the cathode to measure the resistance across the diode terminals. Remember that the cathode is on the side that goes to the ground, which is often marked by a dot, stripe, or an arrow.A normal diode, that is a non-defective diode, will read anywhere from 50,000 to 200,000 ohms. Differences in microwave make and model account for this large range in resistance readings.Reverse the meter probes and measure resistance while touching the positive probe to the cathode and the negative probe to the anode. Reversing the probes like this should result in a reading of infinity. Unless a bleeder resistor is present. The presence of a bleeder resistor would produce a reading of the value of the resistor.High Voltage CapacitorA capacitor is an electrical device which stores electricity. A defective capacitor may be why your microwave is not heating. The capacitor will have to be tested to determine if this is the cause of your problem. A defective capacitor will have to be replaced before your microwave will work again. Make sure you discharge the capacitor before you test it, though.MagnetronA defective magnetron is the third possible cause of why your microwave is not heating. Test your microwave's magnetron. Replace it if it is defective.Testing a magnetronNOTE: Before you test this component, make sure your microwave is unplugged, and that you have discharged the capacitor.There are two tests to conduct in order to determine whether or not a magnetron has become defective. If you receive results other than what are detailed below, you will have to replace your microwave's magnetron. Each test is described for you here:TEST 1: Locate your magnetron and label each of the wires attached to it so that you know which wires are to be replaced where. Set your ohmmeter to the lowest resistance scale. Take a resistance measurement between each of the magnetron's terminals by touching each probe to one terminal each. Reverse the probes and take a second resistance measurement. Each measurement should read less than one ohm.TEST 2: Set your ohmmeter to its highest resistance scale. Touch one of the meter's probes to a magnetron terminal. Touch the other probe to the metal magnetron housing. Take special caution to not touch the two probes together. This could result in an inaccurate reading. This test should produce a reading of infinity - indicating an open circuit.Read the tips on the below links on how to replace your microwave oven's diode and how to discharge the capacitor.http://www.fixya.com/support/r7088355-replace_microwave_ovens_diodehttp://www.fixya.com/support/r7088317-discharge_microwave_ovens_capacitorI hope the above is helpful.Regards.

I have a JVM1850 White microwave-over the oven-installed 3 years ago. Last evening the unit would not turn off. The inside light and fan continued to run, however, the microwave was not working. All the controls and functions seem to operate, but when completed, the unit remained working, as stated above, with the door opened or closed.

We see (and repair) this a lot. The problem is a failing electrolytic capacitor on the control circuit board, which we regularly repair nationwide by mail for $39.95 postpaid with a one year guarantee.At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.Or if you prefer, you can order and replace the "smart board" yourself.You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here. We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

the screws are in the GRILL ( FRONT TOP ) of micro NOT in the top as in Attached to cabinet.

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101

Hi,
Here is a tip that will help you to figure out what is wrong with yourMicrowave Oven....

Microwave Oven Basic Troubleshooting Tips

heatman101 \[\[]
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Hi,
Microwave ovens use a series of micro switches to operate as interlocks to ensure the unit will only operate once the door is securely closed.
If these locks are not operating properly, the timer would count down just like it was operating. There will be no noise like the normal vibration or fan sounds when the start button was pressed. It will simply act like it will operate, but it will never turn on any of the components.
You would need to check these switches if they are functioning properly and would need the help of a qualified technician to test them. If you plan to do it yourself, Check if the switches are mechanically operating and that electrical continuity would change as it was actuated.
Hope this helps.