20 Most Recent GE JVM1870 Microwave Oven Questions & Answers

Remove the outside cover.

If it has been over a 18 months, go get a new one. If not, do not take any leakage risks. If you do, wear a helmet or call 1-800-got-junk.

<--- I'm happy to help you. Yes, it's overheating and the magnetron's thermostat is opening to protect the magnetron until it cools, then it turns power back on. It could be due to a failed or unpowered cooling fan motor. Have your cooktop lights gone out recently? When a cooktop bulb goes out, a surge may occur if the filament shorts, or when the bulbs are removed or installed without first unplugging the oven from the power line. Either can cause such a failure on the controller. The lights can can be inoperable or stuck on or stuck in "night light" mode. Sometimes this will similarly affect the fan operation or inside light, too. I repair boards in such cases. It may instead be a dirty filter. If the unit is set to recirculate, it will use a charcoal filter, which should be replaced every 6-12 months. If it's not set to recirculate, then the grease filter may just need to be washed. Or your ductwork may be blocked by an animal nest or debris. The entire duct and the outside vent / flap must be clear. You can download GE owner's manuals and installation instructions here. You can find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number from the tag on the oven here.

The keypad control may be the problem, or the inverter board. I recommend a professional because it will be expensive.

You need a new turn table motor part # WB26X10038
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There are three parts that will give this kind of symptom, the magnetron "common problem" or the high voltage capacitor and diode. Depending on the nature of the repair, parts and labor may be more money than a new microwave oven.

If it does not heat and makes a loud buzzing sound, it usually means that the magnetron has failed. It the part that generatest the microwaves that heat the food. Replacement costs for magnetrons is almost as much as a new oven, so it rarely makes sense to fix. Sorry.

It sounds like the magnetron may have either failed or is not being supplied with the extremely high voltage required to run it.

YOUR SAFETY IS PARAMOUNT

This is a job for a professional but if you are safety clued up, here's instruction.
Make sure the !!!!capacitor is discharged!!!!! before attempting any sort of repair.
Check the door interlock switches first then the high voltage diode with either an AVO model 8 or moving coil meter on high resistance range for short circuit, (DVM's won't show the fault!), the capacitor can fail and go short circuit, the feed fuse on the primary of the high voltage transformer and then finally, the magnetron is best checked by substitution.
Hope that helps.

Load test.

A simple safety test.
Place 1/2 litre of water in a glass container. Measure the temperature of the water.
Place in microwave and heat on full power for 1minute.
Measure the temperature after it has stood for 1minute.
If the temperature difference is more than 9 degrees Celcuis the magnetron is working and producing about 700Watts of heat.
If your microwave is labelled with 900 or 1000Watts. That is about right.
If the temperature is less then the magnetron is not working properly and may need replacing.

This a only a rough guide and any doubts you should consult an authorised service agent.

Most likely the liquid has fried the dimmer board - the pop you heard was the flame generated by the water when it has shorted the board. You will have to have it replaced at a repair shop - because of the extremely high voltages in there (over 5,000 volts) you should not try to fix it yourself: a simple inattention (or the use of inappropriate tools) can kill you and your life is worth more than $150.

Please check your door safety interlock switch, the #1 reason microwave ovesn do not heat. Find these tiny switches inside opposite the hinge.

When the contacts burn, the oven no longer can tell if the door is closed.

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