20 Most Recent Honeywell HE220A1019 Whole House Humidifier Humidifier - Page 3 Questions & Answers


Yes,humidity does tend to increase when it gets warmer out.Winter causes humidity to go down and gets very low and would easily make a humidifier come on more.Even when winter temperatures do get higher,it does not always cause the humidity to go up.Winter air is quite dry no matter what temperature,unless a rain storm rolls through.I am also a little confused by your post but I think you are in winter now.Turn your humidifier level down slowly to make sure it does go off.Turning it up absolutely will make it run much more.In winter,humidity levels probably do not go much higher than 30%,as long as you are not in the South or near a large water supply.If it snows during winter where you are,the air is very dry.I could not find a downloadable user manual for your item.Is the scale set for 0-100,same as humidity level on the news?If it is,setting it a little lower than 40 should make it turn on alot less.When I used to live up North though,the first week or 2 of having house heat on would occasionally give me nosebleeds because the heater makes the air very dry also.If you have a problem like that,or even when you wake up and your nose and mouth are very dry,you may want to set it a little lower when you are awake,and turn it up a little more when you sleep.Researching yours I found a post on this site from a couple of years ago.

Your humidifier has it's own heater?Are there 2 different dials,1 for heater and 1 for humidifier?If there are,the humidifier would likely stay on even though the heat kicks off.If there is one dial for both,I'll have to check further.I would please like you to answer the questions for me to help.If I answered your question though,it's all good.I am listing the link I found.At least look at it and see if anything there has something which may help you also.Any problems or questuons,just comment here and I will get an autolink to your post and eply ASAP.Greg

http://www.fixya.com/support/t1147141-continous_ware_flow_honeywell_he220a

Honeywell... | Answered on Nov 23, 2010


There is no "standard" amount of water that will be used.

This is a flow-thru type humidifier, which means water runs through an evaporative pad and air blows over it to evaporate the water and humidify the house.

The amount of water the unit uses will depend on the house water pressure, humidistat setting, outdoor conditions, the condition of the humidifier pad, the temperature of the air flowing over the pad, the size of the house, the number of people in the house, the amount of of moisture-absorbing material in the home like textiles, carpeting, drapes, furniture etc., and temperature in the house. There are other factors as well.

The humidistat should be set to the lowest point possible and still provide some humidification (so you don't get zapped by touching metal objects or light switches). Some stats are calibrated in percent, while others simply have numbers on the dial. If you have the stat set too high, you may see frost forming on windows or around doors, in which case the setting should be lowered.

Honeywell... | Answered on Feb 17, 2010


I have a HE220, HE 260 humidifier..by pass, flow thru. There is no water flow between the hot water tank and the humidifer. The water valve is on. Is there an inexpensive part I can replace myself first before calling a plumbing contractor?

Honeywell... | Answered on Feb 08, 2010


I DO NOT HAVE SOLUTION BUT I HAVE SAME PROBLEM HELP PLEASE

Honeywell... | Answered on Jan 26, 2010


I am having the same problem. I have had my humidifier for about 5 years now and I just started having the problem where the water continuously flows through the solenoid. I took apart the solenoid by removing the fittings from both sides. When I did that, I noticed that there was a hole in the metal that allowed me to see through to the other side. Apparently, it had corroded and and broken through, allowing the water to pass through the solenoid without really going through the valve within the solenoid. There are several sites that sell replacements for about $70, which is not cheap, but cheaper than buing a new humidifier for $120. Here is one site I found: http://www.iaqsource.com/product.php/honeywell/32001639-002/?product=112783&category=1142

Honeywell... | Answered on Jan 21, 2010


Sounds as if you feel the problem is the saddle valve. Check to see if water is available at the humidifier. Close the saddle valve, disconnect the water line at the humidifier side, then slowly turn the saddle valve back on. If you never see water, then correct the saddle valve. You can get details here: http://www.naturalhandyman.com/iip/infxtra/infsad.html#1
If you are getting water, but dont think that the unit is operating try sending 24VAC directly to the hunidifier and see if it operates, bypass the humidistat etc.

Honeywell... | Answered on Dec 26, 2009


In order of probability:
1) (incorrect wiring) Make sure that humidistat is in SERIES wired with the furnace.
2) (shorted wires) Check that two wires to humidistat are not touching...use your glasses if you need them!
3) (bad humidistat) disconnect the humidistat and put an ohmmeter accoss the two terminals when it is turned on you should read 0 ohms, and when off it should read infinate ohms, if not pass both these tests, you need new humidistat.
That is it, there are no other possibilites!

Honeywell... | Answered on Dec 26, 2009


You can get them from honeywellcentral.com
filters-fast.com
nextag.com
amazon.com

Honeywell... | Answered on Dec 21, 2009


Valves do go bad, but I had the same issue and it was the inlet orifice that was plugged.
To fix: Turn off the water supply. Disconnect the water inlet line to the solenoid. The water inlet line connect to ~ 1" long piece that goes into the solenoid. Unscrew the water inlet piece and remove it from the solenoid. Check it for water flow - water should slowly drip out the small orifice at the soleniod side. There is a pin-hole sized orifice on the solenoid side and it doesn't take much to plug it. There is also a narrow cone-shaped filter inside the inlet piece. You can use tweezers to remove the filter and & use a safety pin or sewing needle to clear the orifice. Check the filter, clean it if necessary, and reinstall the filter. Now check for water flow thru the part before reinstalling. Reconnect the water inlet line and turn on the water supply. Turn your humidistat to trigger the humidifier. You should see water flowing through the drain tube.

Honeywell... | Answered on Dec 13, 2009


these are flow thru models and a lot of water passes thru them. The instructions say to not limit the water by closing valve at all!

Honeywell... | Answered on Nov 02, 2009


push sail switch forward by hand to see if that is the problem.
Remove two wires at humidifier and connect them if it starts than it is in wiring, humidistat, or transformer.

Honeywell... | Answered on Oct 28, 2009


First thing is to make sure somehow the vent didn't accidentally get closed. If that is not the case, then you might either have a restriction in that vent; a leak in that vent; or a leak in the trunk going back to and into the furnace. Take a look at the ducting (where it can be seen) and repair any obvious damage. Also.. don't forget to check for dampers in the "room" with the furnace. I have seen these moved in the past, and are often at fault. Hope this helps.

Honeywell... | Answered on Jul 17, 2009


The humidifier is designed the use a specific amount of water. Slowing it down can reduce its efficiency. It can also allow mineral deposits to build up faster.
If you must slow down the water. Simply close down the saddle valve slowly untill you reach your desired amount.
Good luck
HVAC Teacher

Honeywell... | Answered on Mar 09, 2009


have you checked the damper ? is the motor running the right direction ? have you increased the water supply to it ? you need to be sure that it is coming on only when you have a call for heat, normally your humidistat should be installed near the return, or on the return duct, for proper sensing, you could try holding a pan of steaming water, placing the stat above it, not to close, to see if the stat shuts off the hum, a little trick, that way you will know if the stat works ok, hope these helped, thanks for the question, mr.grzz

Honeywell... | Answered on Feb 24, 2009


Hi, Hot will make the problem worse. If your calcium is that high you will have scale in your tubs, sinks and toilets. Calcium is a pipe clogger and if you have noticed this type of scaling you may be wise to consider a whole house water filtration system, it will save you lots of problems in the long run. Good Luck!

Honeywell... | Answered on Feb 19, 2009


trace thre copper tube backwards to where it connects to main water line if there is a valve there open and close it if your not sure whats open or closed try it both ways there is also a little restriction device either on inlet or outlet of solenoid that may be clogged

Honeywell... | Answered on Feb 06, 2009


With the Honeywell he220, you will use alot of water, trying to turn down the water will only reduce your amount of humidity in the home, you may be able to adjust it a little but you need to take the cover off and reduce the water flow a little at a time watching the water as it flows across the pad, you just have to make sure the humidifier pad is getting plenty of water across it, to little and you lose your humidification, hope that was helpful to ya, thanks for your question,
mr.grzz

Honeywell... | Answered on Jan 25, 2009


Replace the Valve on the unit. Check the small filter inside of it where the waterline attaches first. If its clear and you have lots of flow from the 1/4" line the replace the valve.

Honeywell... | Answered on Jan 22, 2009


Sounds like you Connected the humid trans fromer directly to a main power source. It should be either on the EAC or HUM term on the board of the furnace.

Honeywell... | Answered on Jan 22, 2009

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