Top 20 Honeywell QuietCare HCM-630 Humidifier Questions & Answers

If you can locate a crack in the clear plastic tank, there may be a chemical you can buy to "weld" the crack closed. If you aren't sure what plastic it is, you might try sealing the crack with bathroom caulk that is mold resistant. You must locate the source of the leak and patch that.

remove and clean the filter then re-install it the air is being blocked

I am surprised that this answer isn't found anywhere, including in the manual from Kaz. If yours is the same version as mine, and your lights aren't even lighting up on top, most likely your float may have gotten bound up with gunk (the float rises up when the pan is full enough of water, which enables the motor to run. It is held into place by a plastic bracket with two phillips head screws, and looks a bit like a plastic bottle with a narrow neck in a small rectangular shape (not open at top). Remove the screws and the bracket, and take out the float and clean it and the reservoir (in the base) it sits in. Reinstall, and the float should move freely. Problem solved!

I was having the same issue. I noticed that when the main fan unit was removed, there was a small plastic piece that was sticking up from the base next to the filter, which has a female end on the fan unit. I played with this, and realized I could lift it up. Once I did this, I replaced the fan unit and it started working. I think this is the water level reader which, when all the way down, won't allow the fan to start since it thinks there is no water.

filter needs to be replaced

I am wondering if the floater is sticking. I have the same problem and there is no crack like others have mentioned. But when taking it apart I noticed the floater which is the piece that sticks up from inside the base was not easily moving. Taking it out tonight after work and cleaning it along with the filter.

Found a hairline crack in the water canister. Had to locate by filling the canister and waiting for a couple of minutes for water droplets to form outside the canister. This ever so slight crack allowed air to enter the chamber and made changes to water dispensing rate which overfilled the resevoir over time ( hours). The cracks were not visible under 10X magnification without the water droplets.

It may not be large enough to bring it up depending on the size of the space. I would try hot water on pad, and maybe even boiling water as well as turning on a shower to get it up. Then use hot water to maintian it.

I SOAKED THE FILTER IN 1 C OF VINEGAR TO 1 GALLON OF WATER OVER NIGHT AND ITS NOT HARD ANYMORE BUT IT IS STILL ALITTLE ORANGE. SO I AM GOING TO TRY TO REUSE IT....

Turn on furnace and urn up humidistst to call for it. Tube from solenid to the filter should have water running if water is up to the valve and solinoid is opening . It should be warm to your touch., Using an ohm meter you can sheck the coil it shuold have continuity.

Hi dolphinblu... Amazon offers pretty large number of articles (Undiluted white vinegar), click here Amazon com Undiluted white vinegar and pick one (who fits your needs, price etc..) I hope this was helpful. enjoy

Look for a microscopic crack in the water chamber. Leaking air will allow the water to continue to drain out of the tank. A bit of glue and duct tape over the crack should fix it.

How long are you going between filter changes?

A filter that stops wicking water up and turns orange/yellow is one full of deposits.

It sounds like you have hard water. How are you filtering this water before you use it? Distilled water is the best.

Replace the filter. They don't last forever. Mine normally last a month to a month and a half.

Good Luck

You can order a new cap, but you won't be able to get one with the filter ball. Every site i went to says they are unavaliable.

If you are interested in just buying the cap, here is the link:
http://www.humidifierfilters.com/parts4models.php?brand=honeywell&model=hcm630

Good Luck.

A console humidifier that fails to humidify a room could have a bad humidistat, fan switch or float switch--problems that take specialized equipment to diagnose. But before you call in a pro, it's worth your time to test the fan motor and float assembly, since repairing them is something you can handle on your own. Testing and fixing the fan Steps: 1. Test the fan motor. While the machine is plugged in and full of water, turn both the humidistat knob and fan-control knob to high. If the fan hums but does not turn, or turns slowly, the motor needs to be replaced. If the fan won't move, you may have a bad switch somewhere. Call a professional. 2. To replace a bad fan motor, unplug the machine and disconnect the fan wires from the switch panel. You may have to pry apart a plug, use needle-nose pliers to pull the connectors off the switch, or unscrew the connectors. 3. Remove the old motor from its housing, using a Phillips screwdriver or a nut driver and socket. 4. Remove the fan blade from the motor. Use adjustable pliers to open the spring clamp at the center of the fan blade, and then slip the clamp off. Use a flathead screwdriver to gently pry off the blade, then set it aside. 5. Take the motor to an appliance store to buy a replacement. 6. Install the fan blade on the new motor, then install the motor and reattach the wires. Testing and fixing the float assembly Steps: 1. Locate the empty tank float assembly. This assembly consists of a switch, a connecting rod (on some units) and some type of float. It's supposed to shut down the machine when the water reservoir is low, but if the float jams in the down position, the dehumidifier won't turn on. 2. Check the float and connecting rod, if there is one. If the parts are bent and touching the cabinet, use gentle hand pressure to straighten them so they move freely. If your dehumidifier has a float switch that is triggered by the filter housing moving up and down, make sure the housing is centered in its tracks and moves freely. Clean any debris and dirt out of the channels, using a scrub brush. 3. Check that the float connecting rod is contacting the float switch. If it isn't, bend the end of the rod so it touches the switch.

solonoid valve not shutting off on water line .

Question edited for clarity, hemostat to humidistat. A hemostat (also called a hemostatic clamp, arterial forceps, or pean after Jules-?mile P?an) is a surgical tool used in many surgical procedures to control bleeding. (Hemo - Blood) For that you will need dealer service. The only thing you can try is a Power Reset. Turn off the power to it by removing the power lead for at least two hours to reset the control board. https://www.google.com/search?q=Honeywell+Trueease+HE+250a-1005+short+cycling ..

It sounds like the wiring for the humidifier may not be correct. The solenoid valve, which controls the flow of water to the humidifier, should be wired to the humidistat and the transformer, not to the furnace or fan. It is possible that the bottom wire of the solenoid is connected to the wrong terminal on the transformer or humidistat, or that the top wire is connected to the wrong terminal on the humidistat. I recommend consulting the installation instructions for your specific humidifier model, or consulting a professional HVAC technician to verify the correct wiring.

Sounds like the high pitched noise is coming from the solenoid valve which allows water to enter the humidifier. Typically when the water pressure is too high, it causes this high pitched sound at the solenoid valve. You can adjust the water pressure a little at a time and see if it helps, just make sure you’re getting enough water across the water panel.

The drive belt is broken then and it needs to be replaced.