Top 20 Polaroid TLA-04011C 40 in. LCD TV - Page 2 Questions & Answers

power supply board caps or hv section of board.

Check the picture settings. Check the aspect ratio. Check the selected resolutions.

check for dry joint connector at inverter board or dead screen back light. if just a white screen you may have bad t-con board.

Problem is not clear enough to offer a solution.

Either a bad connection, issue with a digital board or worst is the display panel for the set--A shop needs open and examine. You could call the maker and see if a known issue in your set--bet they tell you take it to the service center-----not a do it yourself repair for most people.Only boards are sold and not individual parts for all these sets.

Have someone who is familiar with electronics open it up and inspect the power supply board for bulging or leaking electrolytic capacitors. If found, replace them.

ShopJimmy likely has the power supply board with the best price, otherwise discount-merchant.com.However I have one the I am currently looking at where the power supply board was the original issue, and after going over it throughly, the real problem was numerous bad solder joints from the factory. The silver solder is deceptive at times because a joint may look good or passable, but is actually faulty. More often what is seen is called " cold solder joints" where the solder crystalized upon cooling.Unless the transformer is actually visibly scorched, the transformer may just be suffering from bad solder joints on the PC board, or even on the wires where they attach on the header leads. (This by the way was the main problem on early Macintosh computers having a bad solder joint where the winding attached to the header lead, so this is nothing new) It does lead to an ugly repair in some cases, but once corrected, it is no longer something to worry about.If there happens to be a drilled circuit trace- that is probably a factory revision. Try it "as-is" and see if it comes to life.

There may be an issue with "cold" solder joints on the power supply board, or there may be a failing component on that board as well. Some things to look for also are bad solder joints particularly on the fuses of the inverter board or boards depending on production run. Those are going to be rectangular items marked with "8A" on them near where the multiwire connector attaches to that board under the plastic cover. As well as any bulging electrolytic capacitors. Since there usually more than one in parallel if one shows as bad- replace them all A can of cold shot help locate the specific area or component of the 24 volt section of the power supply that is the issue.

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Check for 24 volts on the main power supply board at the paired multipin connectors. Black and Red wires. You only need to take one measurement as they all tie to the same track underneath. If you have 24 volts there, look at the inverter board. Check the 8 amp fuses near where the multiwire connector attaches to the inverter board. If they check okay, check the electrolytic capacitors. If they show any singof bulging, replace them with electrolytics capable of handling high ripple current. The ones from Radio Shack are a gamble only because of the way they source their parts- in general purpose applications, those are okay; inverters are not general purpose. If you do not have 24 volts, check the capacitors for bulging. Flip the board over and look for potentially faulty solder joints- many will look questionable- reflow them and add just a little solder for heat transfer.If the caps on the inverter failed and the set has several thousands of hours, you might consdier changing the CCFL lamps as well.

Check Power Supply board first, and inverter board(s) second. If you see no bulging capacitors or significantly scorched areas on the board, take a look at the condition of the solder joints on the bottom of the board closely. It does not hurt to reflow those that look rough textured adding a little solder as an aid to heat tansfer. Also check the transformer's winding to header connections as well. The MSOFET's used are quite robust and one will partially test in circuit, and the easier to reach unit needs to be removed in order to test it.On the inverter board, check the fuses, about the sized of a puffed rice kernal and close in color too.Marked 8A, and check their solder joints. Also inspect capacitors for bulging. if one shows signs of failing- replace them all.

If the set has several thousands of hours, the CCFL tubes are about due for replacement. Before you commit to that expense though, check the condition of the capacitors on the inverter board(s). If they are showing any signs of stress failure, replace them and try that for awhile. If they begin to fail within a year again, the tubes should be replaced with capacitors. You want to use high Ripple Current types, not general purpose types.

The problem is the power supply of your television.The power supply have abnormal voltage supply output cause of leaked capacitor.The leak capacitor have bulging tops, so that you can identify the leak capacitor. Just remove the cover and find the power supply and replace new capacitor with same polarity.Hope it will help you.Thanks..

hi,
Is there is any light in the screen. If not, then Backlight inverter is faulty. All lcd tv have backlight to light the pixels. If you watch the screen very near then you will be able to see image on the screen. First of all check is there is any budged capacitors in the power supply. If there then replace it will solve the problem. If no then check the inverter board. Do on thing check the fuse in the inverter board. If the fuse is faulty then replace it. If the fuse blews again then the inverter board is short you have to replace invereter baord. It is not possible to repair the backlight inverter. You have to replace the board with a new one.Have added the picture of inverter board and budge capacitor for your reference. If you need any more assistance feel free to contact me by Fixya


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This is actually a bit of a tough one to answer. It really depends on just what the cause is of the flickering is. The flickering could be anything from just a poor signal or cable or connector to a board issue inside. I also don;t know what level of repairs you are comfortable doing etc.

Your real problem here is if it is inside the tv you probably have to send it off to a repair shop. Polaroid has had so many problems with these that they no longer support them. I have heard there was talk of a class action suit but couldn't provide any details on that as I just have no idea if it is true or not.

If you contact Polaroid you can see if they can provide you with contact information of a repair shop. Just go to http://store.polaroid.com/world_wide_contacts and click on support and then find your local contact numbers. Then they should be able to point you towards someone more local to you. You should be able to talk to them and they can talk to you and narrow down what the problem might be.

A word of caution here is to get a repair estimate first. This could be a minor thing or major but you can easily spend more money fixing this than you will just buying a new tv. Expensive repair parts, labour and shipping are all things to consider.

It may be fault in the video section or even the panel itself. Neither is an inexpensive fix. You might check to see if it happens when you are using the set as a computer monitor. If it does recur, the issue is not a cost effective repair. If it does not recur when used as a monitor, the issue is related to the video processing section of the A&D board in most cases. The only thing to try initially is to open the middle back cover and expose the power board and the A&D board, and blow out any dust with something like a can of compressed air held at a distance until you can gauge at what distance you can just dislodge the dust without deforming anything. Just make sure the set is unplugged and you have contact on a conductive portion of the can and the metal frame of the TV at the same time to reduce static discharge issues. It does not eliminate the ESD issues so you do that at your own risk if you can see dust accumulation inside on the board. Though unlikely, I have seen dust accumulations on circuitry leading to erratic operation in other areas.

Depending which model, this tv may have an inverter master and slave module set. I find best to replace as a pair. These modules feed the flourescent lamps that backlight you lcd screen. more than likely the one failing is on the same side as the spot you are seeing. I always first look at the power supply panel, to be certain that capacitors on this board have not failed or leaked out.
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Sounds like dead pixels, they're usually not fixable, but it might be worth checking the warranty, see if they are covered. :)

It sounds like the Main board (sound, video signals are from this board) is bad but the power supply and backlights are working.
Service manual: http://www.polaroidsupport.com

Basic LCD monitor and TV troubleshooting guide: http://www.fixya.com/support/r5093881-lcd_flat_panel_tv_troubleshooting_guide http://www.fixya.com/support/r6150077-basic_lcd_monitors_troubleshooting http://www.fixya.com/support/r7406380-tv_training_manuals Failed TV and Monitors pictures: http://s807.photobucket.com/albums/yy352/budm Learn about bad caps: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague Parts: www.shopjimmy.com Parts: www.interliquidparts.com Capacitors kit: http://lcdalternatives.auctivacommerce.com/Default.aspx he can make you a set of caps. Or www.digikey.com, just make sure to use caps with low ESR, 105c, high ripple current and long life rating such as PANASONIC FM or FC series.

Good day!Follow this D.I.Y procedures to find the exact problem of your TV.

1. Remove the back cover of your TV.
2. After that,find the power supply board.
3. If you already found the power supply,plug-in your TV and power it ON.Check the input voltage of it,using multimeter (AC range).If the power supply have no input voltage the problem could be the power cord.Replace it.
4. If the power supply have the input voltage,try to test the output voltage if have 5vdc for the system and logic supply,12vdc for the sounds and 24vdc for the back-light inverter.Use your multimeter tester (DC range) to test that.
5. If the power supply have a voltage outputs such as 5vdc,12vdc and 24vdc and the problem is still there.The problem could be the main board.Replace it with the same type and model # because the main board is no very difficult to fix and its very sensitive.
6. If the power supply have no output voltage or the voltage is too low,just ignore the step # 5 because the problem is not on the main board,its on the power supply board.

Check the following to fix the power supply board:

• Fuse: Check the fuse if it is busted or blown.
• Power transistor (regulator): Check the regulator if it is shorted or leak.
• Resistor: Check the resistors specially the one that have a low resistance that near the power regulator.
• Capacitor: Also check the capacitors if it is leak or bulging top.

NOTE: If you found any defective parts or components that mention above replace it with the same value,type and ratings.

I hope this solution will be helpful.Thank you and good luck.